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I have to replace the locking hub on my F250 passenger side. Is there a good go-by to find out what I need to do? I want to get it done before the next snow.
I'm in the same boat, smashed my passenger side hub on some rocks and caved in the plastic dial. I'm replacing it with some Mile Marker hubs since they were the only thing available.
I can't preach for how accurate this video is, but it's the one I plan to follow when I replace mine on the next warm day:
Its very easy to do nothing to it. I went with the Warn premium hubs and did not use any grease. I figured if the factory doesn't then I don't need to either.
I also use warn premiums but is sounds as if you guys are going to just replace the affected side and not change out both of the hubs. If you do go with WPH, don't become alarmed when you finish installing and you still have two extra lock rings as these are not used on our specific model years. Should take you 5 minutes or less to change out one hub. I put a very thin coat of grease on mine when I installed. The one thing I do notice is that the driver side needs to be turned about 180 degrees to lock the hub, the passenger hubs needs to be turned about 360 degrees to lock it.
Not so much mixing and matching but just buying the one OEM hub to replace the one that is broken. Now if you already run after-market hubs you don't have much of a choice.
For all the posts about Hub Lockers (not just in this thread),
IMO, I have only replaced a hand full in many years. Of those Hubs, I believe every one was due to lack on maintenance or impact related.
While the Owners Manual does state maintenance of the 4-Wheel Drive System, I believe those who perform maintenance (including Dealerships, Indy Shops, and DIY'rs) fail to perform some type of maintenance to the Hubs.
You can't put your wheels under water or cake them with salt and sand and expose them to pressure washers and excessive heat / cold and expect anything to last WITHOUT MAINTENANCE.
There are several write ups on this forum and others which describe in minute detail the processes involved. And the cost, other than the time (an hour - two hours) is literally pennies. Just one tube of grease will outlast your Truck and the next one you get for sure.
I have the ESOF on my 99. I replaced them when I bought it because they were disastrous and they've given me 180,000 miles of FLAWLESS service.
[ Caution, one of the new Hubs was assembled dry from the Factory ] Just installed Warn Premium 38826 on truck in signature replacing auto locks,I decided to disassemble & use Lubriplate 105 engine/gearbox assembly grease,like I was taught from the Old timers in the late seventies,they said #2 gun grease could be a little stiff in extreme cold especially if applied to thick.I used this lube for 18 years on 75 f-250 with Warn Hubs, still in service when sold
I maintained my hubs, but the sealed bearing cannot be serviced, and it started making noise at about 270K. I tried getting the bearing alone from my local bearing experts (my company does a lot of business with these guys), but they all came up with "it's a proprietary bearing".
I maintained my hubs, but the sealed bearing cannot be serviced, and it started making noise at about 270K. I tried getting the bearing alone from my local bearing experts (my company does a lot of business with these guys), but they all came up with "it's a proprietary bearing".
That stinks! This last time I did one on mine I went with the NAPA (yes they're made in China), but even with my discount the Dealer wants like $500.00, I got one from NAPA for about $200. You still have to get the Bolts from Ford. I can't believe no one carries them. They're like $27.00.
I've never looked to see "if" the bearings can be removed. I'll bet if you do get one removed you could find one somewhere.
Amazingly, when you work on someone else's stuff day in and day out you seem to never find time to do your own. I've been needing Brakes for about 2 years on the rear also. Probably going the NAPA route as well, everything all way around.
Not so much mixing and matching but just buying the one OEM hub to replace the one that is broken. Now if you already run after-market hubs you don't have much of a choice.
Ah I gotcha. While that did cross my mind, for what Ford is asking for ONE locking hub ($330) I could buy two sets of aftermarket hubs!
Originally Posted by HKusp
The spring in the Warn premiums is weak as crap. Get the Superwinch, there is no spring, and they are cheaper with a lifetime warranty as well.
I did a little searching as I was certain they all required a spring to function. I was wrong, but the real answer may surprise you (it surprised me).
Superwinch:
Warn Premium:
Mile Marker:
From that, I'm a little more confident in my choice of the Mile Marker hubs. Though originally I chose them from my reading on Pirate4x4 and the ability to exchange them with no questions asked at any O'Reilly's part store. Oh and they are stainless steel!
Originally Posted by Tugly
I maintained my hubs, but the sealed bearing cannot be serviced, and it started making noise at about 270K. I tried getting the bearing alone from my local bearing experts (my company does a lot of business with these guys), but they all came up with "it's a proprietary bearing".
They can be serviced in the sense that you can grease them, but to my knowledge replacing them requires replacing the entire unit. Now if you are talking about the inner needle bearing, those can be replaced by themselves (part #B2110).
I'm very happy with the Mile Markers. Only issue I had was the snap ring that retains them left a little wiggle room and they rattled at highway speeds. Use the replacement snap ring 105-15 spiralocs. Took up the slack and stopped the rattle.
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