I keep running into starting issues with them, the PV being at the base of the bowl opening when shut off then siphoning out all the fuel into the intake.

Nor am I fan a fan of mechanical secondary carbs in all but very specific applications. FWIW I got this dream carb setup I doubt I'll ever have the chance/need to build but think it would be AWEOME. A pair of Holley 4175s with all the tricks, secondary tuning, dual feed, center hung, weber emulsion tubes, etc. Installed back to back so the big bores are centered on a big tall dual plane manifold.

Or 4 IDA webers of course , I love weber carbs(real ones) 5 jets and 2 changeable emulsion tubes per port they are a hugely fun challenge and work fantastic once you get them figured out. A clevor with 4 IDAs with a turbo blowing through them, awesome.

I'm rambling, sorry.
I've heard a lot of stories and seen a few clouds myself. Me I haven't been in a place with an engine where I thought those things were worth the risk.

IDK the details on the Beldens but I really doubt they can beat the low ohm rating of the thundervolts, only 40 ohms per foot. I've been supremely happy with every thundervolt I've installed and there have been maybe 100 between my, friends, and customers vehicles. Almost all the 8.2s but there is also a 10.4 if you want a thicker one. I've yet to have a set wear out also.
Spark Plug Wire Sets & Accessories - Taylor Cable Products

As for heat, lots of products out there. I've find what taylor calls "Space Age Boot Protectors" rather practical, enough to do the job without being a big pain. Full Metal Jacket Aluminum Boot Shields - Taylor Cable Products

That I don't know for sure but IIRC there is no stock looming, they just jambed/laid them in there and bolted stuff on around them. Again FWIW I consider looming the most important aspect of a plug wire install. Great looming allows for shorter custom wires and a near guarantee that the wire will both survive and not crossfire.

I'm a fan of what MSD just calls dual plug wire separators, As far as I can find MSD sells both 8ish mm size and a larger one, and taylor sells a version for there 10.4 wires. I find with 8 or so of these I can get the wires secured EXACTLY where I want them without the limitations of those bracket styles and much easier then clamp styles.
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...eparators.aspx
T-Clip 409 & Clip-On Wire Separators - Taylor Cable Products

My plug wire install routine is both simple and complicated but I've had great success. First all V8 engines have basically the same firing order that has several aspects for looming. It starts with distributor timing placing. Done right two sets cross right next to each other at 6 and 12 o'clock, and 4 end up coming strait out, on Fords which depends on firing order. That way no wires cross over or have to go around the cap. Next plug all the wires in at the spark plugs, then loom up to the cap, then put on the end terminals at the cap.

 

Changing the oil won't do anything for carbon in the combustion chamber, but yes absolutely it will burn off over time after the over rich condition was/is resolved then yeah it will clean itself out over time. As I said though from those plugs I think you still have a temporary over rich condition at some point and the water mist trick might speed up cleaning. The combination of the still present over rich condition and how long it takes to burn it off means it's unlikely that it's getting better, maybe even worse.


Edit.
This is just kind of a curse of a carbureted engine, there are too many times when it's almost impossible to not be over rich. For example when cold, or whenever the accelerator pump is activated, all it can be is minimized to the point that it causes the least problems.


Good, no reason then to think that this is contributing to the #8 issue, that it's from the plug wire. But I personally would move the HVAC and reservoir to the carb but NOT the same port as the PCV. The brakes should be there though as that is where vacuum is strongest and the brakes benefit from that.


This is not ideal, chances then are very good that you are lean at the idle circuit. We need to keep in mind that idle mixture effects everything to some degree, decreasing of course as you reach WOT but that fuel never fully stops flowing. Also have to keep in mind that with a carb you have a wet manifold, that is there is always some fuel sticking to the walls and laying on the floor of the manifold. That is why there is that crosshatch pattern on the floor of the manifold under the carb. It holds fuel drops in place keeping them from draining into the cylinders as liquid fuel. In a very practical since idle mixture as well as idle effects tip in and low throttle cruise quite a bit.


Back to being lean, idle needs to be adjusted in gear, vacuum is lower in gear thus it will flow less fuel in gear. But in gear load is higher and it needs more fuel, thus setting idle in park generally creates a lean condition. Also you make no mention of turning it back out a bit after finding that minimum fuel point.


Adjusting idle with auto...
1. Warm it up good.
2. Secure the truck, chock at the tires, parking break set, buddy behind wheel, etc. whatever you need to do to ensure the truck won't move while in gear and your in front of it.
3. Put in gear, doesn't matter which, I suggest reverse most of the time as it's safer for you in the front.
4. Go back and forth from side to side finding that minimum spot of least fuel with max RPM and vacuum.
5. Once there very gently open the throttle to see if it stumbles, likely it will a little. Turn both out 1/4 turn, try again, better? Another 1/4, even better? Continue until no improvement then go back in that last 1/4 that did no good, usually at about a 1/2 turn out from that minimum spot.


I don't think this is a cause of your ping, but there is a slight chance it contributes and no reason not to improve.


I haven't done it much, but have done it and think it has helped. More important as long as it's not overdone I see no way to cause damage and it's certainly MUCH safer then snake oils like Seafoam.

Do yourself and us a favor and ohm test those wires and post what you find. Up to you and your wallet but I find a big difference between 2000ohms and 150ohms.


Your welcome and thanks

 

Yup agreed, or even better one of those air pump gardening misters so the mist is consistent instead of pulsating with you pumping. Or heck a steam iron, never thought of that before but it would work great.


I'd suggest doing it before each oil change so any oil contaminated by the extra water leaves with oil that your changing anyway. Ohh and a HOT engine, as hot as possible, almost overheating, ideally you want all the engine parts over 212 deg, that's not possible in any practical since but you can get as close as possible.

 

Brute, I have to figure out how to do the cut and paste quotes. As far as ideal setup, how about a pair of 465 cfm Holley 4160 series carbs on a Ford Trans-Am manifold for the 289 Cobra engine? The carbs sat reversed like a 427 and the rear one actually hung partially over the scattershield. Manifold was basically a near independent runner style, you could damn near see the intake valves with the carbs removed. Car was a 1966 Shelby GT350 with a .030 over 289 and it screamed, HP was on the order of 375 @ 7000 redlining @ 7500 it would run out of rpm before it ran out of power, really needed a 5th gear with the stock 3.89 Detroit Locker rear.

I too like Webers, 48IDA for downdraft and 40DCOE for sidedraft (I have experience with both setups). Extremely tuneable carbs, I learned a lot from their "Technical Introduction to the Master Catalog".

I followed your link to Taylor's site, no custom Thundervolts for the 460, bummer. I still have a spark plug cable crimping tool (we used to keep bulk Packard 440 wire and an assortment of boots and ends) but it is for 7mm wire. That was a real useful item to have when you found a bad #7 wire on a big block Chrysler engine, they were 7 feet long on the 413, 426 wedge and 440! Maybe a universal set might work, right now it has a Motorcraft set on it.

 

My way is to quote it as usual, then delete the bits you don't want. But, copy it before you delete the bits so you can paste it again and delete more bits.

I did the same thing and found nothing for the M/400. And all I have are the cheap stripper/crimpers.

I think the B-block, as in the 383, used the same set as the RB.

 

Lariat 85,


What is the gap of the plugs? Just curious...

 

The gap is set to 0.050". I am running a stock Duraspark ignition system.

 

This has to be quick, have to hit the road.


I cut and past the quote in brackets.


I never buy already terminated wires so applications rarely matter to me, I have a set of these to put the wires together, get it down it's pretty easy, they work great, cheap enough, do all I need, etc.
New Spark Plug and Primary Wire Strip Crimp Pliers | eBay

 

Those look like mine except mine are red.

 

Looks like I'd better get a set. Thanks. Hijack over.

 

The "pinging" under load and WOT my truck was experiencing was not caused by ignition timing, vacuum advance, or the carburetor.

I replaced all 8 spark plugs (Motorcraft ASF-32, same as before) and wires (Ford Racing 9mm, replacing the Motorcraft 8mm) today and went for a test drive. To my surprise, the "pinging" problem seems to have completely gone away. I drove it about 30 miles today and opened it up HARD a few times, and there was absolutely NO "pinging" at all.

Man, this truck pulls harder than ever and absolutely SCREAMS now when I get on it and it winds up!

I hope this is a permanent fix and not something that comes back...

A few notes:
1. The Motorcraft plugs I was running before were gapped to 0.050", but I left them at the stock 0.044" this time. (Should I open them back up to 0.050?)

2. The Ford Racing wires were a bit thicker and fit MUCH tighter on the spark plugs and the distributor cap.

3. The Ford Racing ignition coil plug "snapped" on to the end of the coil; the Motorcraft plug wire did not.

Thank you ALL for your advice and ideas, and a special thanks to Gary Lewis, 85lebaront2 and BruteFord for responding to this thread by special request.

 

Mind if I ask why the Ford racing wires?

 

Sounds like you have it fixed, glad it seems straight now. Did you route the left side wires 7568 the way Ford used to specify on the 302s?

 

Sure. These were given to me on Christmas 2013 by my wife for being a good boy all year.

She bought these for me mainly because they were red, the same color as my truck, and she thought they looked "prettier" than the dingy gray Motorcraft ones I had. I just never bothered to put them on, because I thought the ones I had were fine. I know they are not really needed, but why buy a new set when I have such a great wife who thinks my truck is so FAST it needs a set of "racing" plug wires? Thanks, Babe!

I sure did. Thanks for the tip! Like Ford specified, I put plug wire #7 on the top and #8 on bottom of the 4-wire holder, to keep them as far apart as possible. It took some time, but they are all nice and neat. I also used some blue "FORD" plastic plug wire dividers that spaced the 2-wire holder openings far apart to help keep cylinders 7 and 8 from cross-firing at the end.

 

Good job! Sure glad you got it fixed.