Looking for someone to come by my place in elk and help me check the timing on my truck as i have a new set of points i would like to put in as well as adjust the carb. i'm in the process of cleaning the radiator to get the crud out.

 

Wrote this out for a kid on Facebook a few weeks ago, hope it helps.

I'm gonna do a short write up on initial tuning of Idle Mixture and Timing for those who are newer to doing the mechanical part of these wonderful trucks.
This set of instructions is for not having a Tach or Vacuum Gauge, having either of these makes it easier and a Vacuum Gauge is the Best way to tune short of O2 Sensors/Gauges and/or Dyno Tuning.
Identify where your Idle Set screw is, your Idle Mixture screws and your Distributor Hold-Down bolt.
Get the vehicle to running temperature (when choke is fully off). Lower the idle just to where it's no longer smooth. Turn one Idle Mixture screw in/out 1/2 turn to see which direction the idle the idle lowers and which direction it increases, you will then turn it the direction it Increases and it will increase- steady- decrease, when it starts to decrease turn it back until you have it at the Highest RPM. Turn the Idle Set screw down so the engine is back at the RPM you started with then repeat the process for your other Idle Mixture screw. After both are set and the idle lowered then Remove/Plug the Vacuum Advance line for the Distributor. Loosen the Distributor Hold Down bolt just enough that the Distributor will turn with your hand, slowly and slightly rotate the distributor so the engine Gains RPM. Similar as the Carb you will rotate it until you are at the highest RPM and then turn it back roughly an 1/8th of a turn and retighten the Hold-Down bolt and reconnect the vacuum advance line. Adjust your idle so the vehicle is running smoothly, if you have an Automatic then turn it up a little more. If you shut the vehicle off and upon restarting it cranks Very slow then you have the timing a little too far advanced. Take the vehicle for a test drive and carefully listen for any Pinging/Spark-Knock etc, you will most likely have to turn Distributor back more as doing in this method will usually have you a touch too far Advanced and will need to back it off in very small increments until the Pinging is gone.
If people want the other methods typed out let me know. Feel free to add pointers or disagree in the comments. haha

 

Where did you get the points? The reason I ask is because points generally need adjustment every 10k (miles, not $$) say, but that's assuming they are any good to begin with. Points work fine, but there's a reason electronic ignition took off like it did. So if running points, in my opinion take the time to find a set manufactured before electronic ignition, the materials and construction are better than today and they will perform as well as they ever did. With el-cheapo points the rubbing block will too often wear away in just a few hundred miles, the recycled beer can point surfaces will pit and burn, etc.

I see eBay sellers offering good ole NOS Ford point sets for not very much money. Condensers are just as important, and it seems that the new manufacture are even worse than the new points.