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Split Rim differentiation (Widowmaker) Question

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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 01:43 PM
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Split Rim differentiation (Widowmaker) Question

Hi Y'all-

Sorry to jump right into a question, but I gotta start somewhere.
I looked and didn't see this this in the search function.

I picked up a 1953 F600 recently - possibly the previous owner is on this board - who knows. Anyway, prior to purchasing I asked if it had one piece rims that would accept tubeless tires. I was told they were one piece rims with tubeless tires.

Anyway, that appears to not be the case, now that I have the vehicle in hand.
I'm wondering if there is a way a lay person can tell whether these are the RH5 Firestones, vs the other split rims that might be safer, or if this is something only a shop can tell, or can only be told when they are unmounted and apart.

I'm considering the Budd 89340's I think, in the 6R19.5 size as a substitute as suggested in many threads here, but am interested in what I'm driving on in the meantime...

Will post a picture asap...


thanks

Ian
 
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 02:21 PM
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Welcome. Getting right to the point is appreciated.

Can you see a band like raised area on the concave rim surfaces? Pictured below. That's an RH-5°.



If not, do you see a ring on the face side of the wheel? Like one of these styles. They are generally safe to keep in service. Stu


 
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 02:33 PM
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Yup, I see that band, at least on the unmounted duallys on the back. Front might be different, I'll check.

The questions I'm able to ask are mostly informed by your previous posts full of information, Stu, so thanks for that. I've talked to the guys in AWS in Pasco, and seems like it will be an easy deal to coordinate new replacements in 19.5"

Follow up Questions:
1) Do the bias ply tires on there have any value to collectors? Not as in I want to make money, but as in, would someone re-use them on safer rims if I sold them for a nominal fee?

2) I've heard one party concerned that 19.5" will negatively impact total GVW, ride quality, and top speed - is this a concern, such that I might want to consider 22.5"?

thanks,

Ian
 
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 03:12 PM
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The 22.5 will be much closer to the diameter of the tires you currently have. The whole .5 system uses a lower profile tire and a larger diameter rim. Even after owning many old ford trucks, I mistakenly believed that the 17" widow makers on my '53 F350 were one piece tubeless rims. That's because I didn't see the usual lock ring I was looking for. What I'm saying is I would have replied "yes, they are one piece tubeless wheels" as well. Found out the hard way when I went to have new tires installed....... What size tire is on the old F600 widowmakers and which part of the country do you live in?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 03:32 PM
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AWS can set you up with either factory new imported 19.5s or 22.5s, or can make you custom wheels in these sizes. The custom 19.5s are done by mounting used 17" center discs into new tubeless 19.5" x 6" rims, or the custom 22.5s by remounting your 20" centers into new 22.5" x 6.75" tubeless rims. The factory new ones will look somewhat different than original ones because they have a wider face and smaller vent/hand holes. Here is a pic of a set of the 19.5s a member bought. I don't have a pic of the 22.5s.



If they make you a custom set in either size the wheels will look like old originals.

An 8R19.5" tire is 33.5"-34" tall. A 7.50" x 20" is about 37" and an 8.25" x 20" is about 38" tall. A set of 19.5s will reduce top road speed I'm told by about 10%. The new or custom built 22.5" x 6.75" wheels will use a 9R22.5" tire that is 38", or in some instances I've seen taller. I've spoken with Mr. Murillo of AWS and was told the new and custom made are cost competitive. If, however, you are able to find used 22.5" or 19.5" replacements they will be a good bit less expensive. You can find listings for each in the FTE classifieds.

There should be no problem overloading 19.5s. Each Budd 89340 is rated for 2500 lbs.

Used tires appear on CL all the time. I've bought used 19.5s that way and am sure others have bought 20s. As long as they are not cracked or badly worn you should be able to find them a new home. Stu

Edit - since you live in WA you are within the Les Schwab and Commercial Tire dealership regions. AWS to my past knowledge is/was a wholesaler to these dealer chains and would sell only through their local stores. If a customer lives east of these companies' dealer coverage AWS will work directly with you. You might double check that, however, with Mr. Murillo. Stu
 
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:11 PM
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If you live near Seattle, there is a tool and equipment rental shop on Aurora that's been there since I was a kid. For some reason they have a storage yard off-site about a mile away where they have stacks of mostly mounted truck tires and wheels. The guy that drove me to the yard said they used to dismantle a lot of motor homes back in the day. He also told me that a group of old ford guys had been there a few years before and bought quite a few, but I DID see some really tall stacks of tubeless stuff there. I was seeking 8.25 x 20's at the time so didn't study much of the other stock there. Handy Andy's Tool Rental...
 
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 03:46 PM
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Thanks to all for your input.
I'm having AWS make some 22.5" rims and having them sent to the Les Schwab across the street.

Upon closer inspection, it also looks like the fronts are one piece, riveted rims, and take tubes. When I get a chance I'll post pictures of them for comparison.

Any thoughts on rib vs. traction for the new tires, or ideas about rib on the front and traction on the back?

This will be a working truck, and might carry some good amounts of things like topsoil, etc, but probably maximum 10 miles at a time.

Seems like the single speed rear axle and the four speed mean I'll probably not be going faster than 50 with a tailwind...
 
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 05:39 PM
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Wondering about the riveted one piece rims in front

Also, was wondering if there is any way to tell what the front ones are? Are these likely safe for radials, or only bias ply? I think they have 8R20's bias ply tires now, but might be due for replacement sometime soon.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lkc2273
Upon closer inspection, it also looks like the fronts are one piece, riveted rims, and take tubes.
Not likely. If your stock rims are 20" they are not one piece. The face side of those on the front of the truck may look like they are one piece, but that's just how the front of a widow maker looks.

Originally Posted by lkc2273
Also, was wondering if there is any way to tell what the front ones are? Are these likely safe for radials, or only bias ply? I think they have 8R20's bias ply tires now, but might be due for replacement sometime soon.
If you don't see a ring it's a widow maker. Stu
 
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 06:45 PM
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Ok, a picture is worth a thousand words. Here are the pictures of the front and back.
The front has lug nuts, the back has the bolt with the square head. Does the square head mean the rear is stud pilot, or is that a different issue?

The front wheels are marked CY5.50-6.00-20LW.

I'm thinking this means the front are safe split rings, the rears are widowmakers, the difference in lugs isn't a problem, and the replacement wheels from AWS will fit the rear no problem?

Thanks!

Ian
 
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 08:14 PM
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The wheel pictured on the right, a rear held on with Budd inner cap nuts, is a widow maker Firestone RH-5°. The wheel pictured on the left, a front, has a Goodyear (GY) "LW" style split ring 5.50"-6.00" outer rim. The info you found is on the ring. There will be numbers on the rear lip too if it is a Budd product, but there will be no numbers if it is Kelsey-Hayes. If both fronts match the pictured wheel you are in good shape using them. Stu
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 12:47 AM
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Thanks a ton, that's a great help. Do you have any insight about whether those fronts are ok with radicals, or only ok with bias ply?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 06:16 AM
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Radials with radial tire tubes is an alternative. Probably a good alternative in view of your use of 22.5" radials on the rear. Stu
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 03:27 PM
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Here is the LW rim profile. If both fronts are not LWs, make sure to keep the rings and rims together as matched sets.

Photobucket is driving me crazy right now, won't link a picture. Stu

 
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