Flathead starting problems
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Flathead starting problems
Another newbie novice question. I have a 1953 ford f100 with a rebuilt flathead. It was converted to 12volts prior to rebuilding the engine so when I installed the engine I put all new 12volt ignition parts including the solenoid. When I connected the positive battery terminal the starter engaged. I am trying to reuse the starter button. Where am I going wrong. please be kind as my frustration is going sky high.
Phantom of the Phorum
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 5,472
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From: Kentucky
Welcome to FTE! 
Have you tested the new starter relay (solenoid) to see if it's stuck closed? Take the small wire off and try to connect the positive again. If it tries to engage again, the solenoid is bad.
If not, and it engages when you attach the small wire, then the start circuit is closed somewhere. Make sure that wire runs directly to the start button, and the start button is good.
Have you tested the new starter relay (solenoid) to see if it's stuck closed? Take the small wire off and try to connect the positive again. If it tries to engage again, the solenoid is bad.
If not, and it engages when you attach the small wire, then the start circuit is closed somewhere. Make sure that wire runs directly to the start button, and the start button is good.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 322
Likes: 1
From: FL
Is the '53 a one-wire starter button or two-wires? If it is one wire, they probably left the original starter relay as-is. It works this way even when converting from 6V pos gnd to 12V neg ground - my '40 is wired this way.
And there's no reason to swap the starter relay in a 12V conversion. The 6V one will be more than adequate. I prefer the original ones with a button on the bottom, but I digress.
The original starter relay received a ground from the button to the S terminal. Your new 12V starter relay requires +12V to the S terminal (if it has two small terminals) to actuate and gets its ground through the bolt to the cab/fender/frame.
So, check your button and get back to us, but the only way your 12V starter relay will actuate is if it's getting +12V to the small S terminal.
And there's no reason to swap the starter relay in a 12V conversion. The 6V one will be more than adequate. I prefer the original ones with a button on the bottom, but I digress.
The original starter relay received a ground from the button to the S terminal. Your new 12V starter relay requires +12V to the S terminal (if it has two small terminals) to actuate and gets its ground through the bolt to the cab/fender/frame.
So, check your button and get back to us, but the only way your 12V starter relay will actuate is if it's getting +12V to the small S terminal.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
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From: NM
Personally, I'd head to the boneyard and buy one off any old Ford. I never had one fail, and the chinese ones seem to be lucky to go 3 months before welding their contacts together. You can probably get three used OEM's for the price of a new import.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 322
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From: FL
No, but I'd use it over the plastic case one...
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chappys4life
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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