After the local shop quoted me close to $1100 i am Ready to do a complete front and rear Break job on F350 Dually along with Upper and lower ball joint as paying that not even an option .

Few things would like to know , Is there a special instruction or tips for the rear drum breaks ? I have done few in the past but non on a dually . the rear driver side cylinder leaking bad

When doing the breaks since am doing front and rear .Which one to bleed and start with 1st front or rear ?

I figured since i am that far i am going to replace the driver side ball joint's

Thanks

 

the brakes are a little different than a car of F-150 setup, but if you have done a F250 rear brake job it is the same only larger parts.
always bleed passenger rear first, then driver rear, passenger front, then driver front.

 

B-R-A-K-E-S. And get a WRITTEN procedure on PAPER that you can follow. Then you'll be ready.
Fixed.

 

Hopefully the truck's new enough to have a Sterling axle.....

 

The ball joints aren't terrible, just exhausting. I'd recommend having access to an air hammer with some sort of pickle fork attachment, and an impact wrench for the ball joint press.


I only had a regular pickle fork which I had to wedge in between the spindle and housing and whack with a 3 lb sledge. On the plus side, the whole thing popped apart when it finally came loose, top and bottom. Everything went pretty smoothly with the press.


I'd recommend replacing your front axle U-joints while you're in there too.

 

Well the rear breaks are all done & put back with new hardware,break shoe, cylinder and lines , It was a bear to latch the coiled side springs to the hanging hocks coming from the back of the housing .

Now moving on to the front end < New calipers, Pads, Lines and Ball joints

 

Can some one please explain to me how i can i get the rotor out from the knuckle . I have to separate it so i can get turned or replaced .

 

You have to remove the studs to separate the rotor from the front hub. They are fairly easy to pound out with a hammer. Make sure to have a nut screwed on and sticking out past the end of the stud so you don't bugger up the threads on the stud when you smack it with a hammer (a shop press can also work).
Oh, in case it wasn't obvious, you have to pull the hub off the knuckle first. Little different if its 4x4 or 2wd (don't think you mentioned which you have) Basically you loosen the bearing nut and pull the outer bearings, then the hub comes off.

 

its 2wd .. In all my pas experience , You pull the calipers out then loosen the retaining clip inside the hub ( which i can't seem to find unless it's behind the steel gray cap ), Loosen the bolts from the back, the rotors will easily slide out

But why i need to remove the studs to free the rotors .!!

 

Remove the cap, cotter pin and nut, slide rotor off. You might want a new wheel seal and repackage your bearings.

 

you nailed partner .. That's all i needed . the job is going smooth now