So I've seen people on here that's done the rustoleum paint job and it looking pretty good. I ain't sure if I wanna go the cheaper way and roll on some rustoleum (which was my original plan) or buy my a cheap gun and air compressor and spray it with some cheap auto paint. I don't wanna spend a bunch a money on a fancy paint job, I use my truck, it will see the woods plenty. I just wanna get the body best lookin as I can then I wanna paint it myself. I'm not a body man nor have I ever painted a vehicle before but im try my best. Hopefully it turns out well. I got some sandin done on the hood today bringing out the old red underneath. I need some advice from you painters out there. The truck was originally candy apple red, someone has painted half the truck black and the other grey over top of the original red. I started today sandin with a 80 grit on a electric sander, which I took off the grey back to the original red. What I'm asking is what is the next step? As in which grit should I jump up to now. After what grit should I lay my first coat of paint? Should I sand the rest of the truck by hand after I knock off the grey and black? I need some help and ideas guys like some steps. Should I stick with the order plan and roll it on? I like to just jump into things and figure it out as I go along so that's why I got so many questions. After removing the rail covers on the bed and the tool box, I noticed where good olé rust has did alot of damage. I'll figure out something when I get to it. I'll be posting pictures along the way. Any positive help/advice is very appreciated.







Got a little sandin done on the hood today








Got my wife help in me out so that's always good





Cancer





Old bondo

 

I'm currently doing a facelift on my 78 Bronco. Been sanding for two days. It was originally a solid black freewheeler owned by my dad. He sold it to a friend that had it painted camoflauge(looked very good) but its time for change.
I'm going with flat black or semi gloss black rustoleum. That will get me by until later on when I take it off the road and do a restoration.
I started with 80 grit then went to 220. Did it all with my DA except for the hard spots that was done by hand. I'll block it out by hand when I get further along. I have a cheap paint gun from Tractor Supply(I think like 40 bucks). I've painted many things with it, including prize winning antique tractors.
Oh almost forgot, I'm probably going to clear coat it also so it will be easy to wash but I'm going to deaden it so it doesn't shine.

 

I wouldn't roll it.. it takes forever. I shot this lawn tractor with Rustoleum Signal Orange through a $10 HF gun.

Besides surface prep, which is 80 percent of the work, the trick to shooting Rustoleum is to shoot a very light initial coat and let it set for about 20 minutes. That's the "tack" coat.... it'll get sticky and will hang on to subsequent coats to reduces runs and sags. Shoot multiple coats thereafter normally allowing about the same amount of time to elapse. Allow to dry thoroughly (several weeks!) before wet-sanding and buffing.

Btw, this time of year is the wrong time to shoot paint. You should really wait for warm temperatures with higher evaporation rates.

 

79 are you going to spray it after the 220 grit?

 

HIO you think it will be alright if I get some heaters goin in the garage? I'm in GA it's a little chilly but nothin crazy. Also any guns/paint you would recommend for this I want to get it back as close to candy apple as possible

 

Yep its getting sprayed after the 220. I live in Western KY and right now we are having a warm spell so I'm trying to hammer it out and get it done. I'll probably only get it in primer though then finish in spring. It sets inside. I'm also not doing anything to the doors at this time(getting another set) and I'm not doing anything to the Topper( I have a nicer one to put on it).

 

I did an old ford in rustoleum tan. What I did was went to ace, grabbed a few color cards. Took them out to the truck and matched them to the paint that was left on it. Once I found the closest I could get, I went inside, handed them the card, and they mixed the color for me. Less than a hundred bucks into that, sand paper, bondo, and primer. I used a $25 sears gun. Thinned it to 50% paint, 50% acetone and shot it. Laid down nice and smooth, except when my water filter broke.

 

I have shot paint in a garage and the overspray gets over EVERYTHING unless ya hang plastic sheeting as to create a spray booth. It'll also require a filtered air intake (furnace filters) and then the air expelled by a box fan(s) with furnace filters on its vacuum side. You do not want open flames so turn off the water heater and furnace if it is located in the garage. Wrap yourself up tight because again the overspray will land on you too... your skin and clothes will feel sticky.

Electric heaters will work for drying but they'll be on for a long time. Do not have heaters on while shooting color.

Oh, thin the Rustoleum anywhere from 20 to 30 percent with odorless mineral spirits. As you many have already researched, color selection is really limited... I think all you'll find is Regal Red and Safety Red. Pick up some and do a spray out before committing!

Personally, I would look into Summit's single-stage urethane or a jobber brand from TCP Global.

 

I've used Nason from O'Reillys with good results. I like the Nason clear also.
I've always had off brand guns and used a few Devlibliss guns. Ive used my buddies Iwata gun quite a bit, love it great gun. Bout 800 bucks though.

 

If I bought a spray gun and compressor, how much is some cheap automotive paint? I don't know terms like "single stage" or what that means. But if you could dump it down like and explain it to me I'd appreciate it. I'm leaning towards spraying it now.

 

No doubt about it, "She's a Keeper"

Otherwise ..... I'm "subbing" to this thread as I want to tackle a repaint (after some panel replacements and body prep work) on my '77 this year before I get too old ....

 

Single stage means you shoot the paint and your done. Some paints HAVE to use a clear coat to seal the paint. Spray guns are not a huge thing, but, I would buy one with the push in plastic lids instead of a screw on cap. What a pain they are. Air compressor is much more important. Find you a gun, then find out what it needs for air before buying a compressor. PSI's are not the only thing you need to worry about, volume is very important. HVLP guns mean, high volume low pressure. They water filter is also very important. I would buy the most expensive one you can. You can't just sand and throw on the color. You need to primer and seal the surface first. As far as paint, candy is a multi stage process, after your primer sealer is the color, then the candy then clear. I wouldn't shoot for that. From what it sounds like you are doing with the truck, I would go with an implement paint. It is what they use on equipment like tractors and dozers and junk. Single stage and very hard.


PS I am not a professional painter, I just play one on TV.

 

Candy for a first time paint job?? I'd be real tempted to do the truck in bedliner. You can buy a bedliner gun or roll it on. Being a 4x4 and heading to the woods, it's easy to repair or patch. Takes a beating. And it's relatively cheap compared to paint. Plus wavy bodywork doesn't show up as easily. Just make sure to get something with some UV protection if you can, so it doesn't get chalky later. Or you could get a cheap HF gun later and throw some implement paint over it later.

 

Thanks for the info 4x4 I will for sure be looking into that paint. Do I need to primer or base coat if I'm not taking it down to bare metal? Also before you told me about single stage, I was lookin into this paint from summit, do any yall know if it's good? How much paint do I need for my truck?