I have a '67 F100 with a 240 w/ 3-speed, I've been looking into an engine swap, but I'm looking for some advise:
1) as far as the difficulty to install a EFI motor versus a Carb'd motor.
2) 351w vs. 302, efi or Carb'd.
Any input is appreciated!

 

A carb'ed 302 is by far the easiest.

A 351w is much the same but finding long tube headers is difficult. Shorties ona 351w is more doable but the potential hp would still be corked.

Anything with efi is more work unless an aftermarket tbi system is used....and at significantly more cost.

What is your wrench worthiness?

 

I have a '69 F100 short bed with the stock 240/C-4.

I have a 5.0L H.O. EFI engine from a '90 Mustang GT and a Ford 4R70W 4-spd. automatic overdrive (electronic shift) from a '98 3.8L Mustang that will eventually be installed in my F100.

A 351W/5.8L engine will naturally have more power, right out of the box than a 302/5.0L, simply because it has more cubic inches.

If I install the 5.0L engine and decide later on it isn't strong enough to suit me, I have an early '70s (carbed) 351W tucked away and I have a Ford 5.8L GT40 style lower EFI intake. I can just transfer all the upper EFI pieces from 5.0L engine over onto the 351W, to make it a fuel injected engine.

Are you familiar with EFI or EFI system functions and installations?

 

Well I'm only 18, but both sides of my family have raced stock cars and are pretty good fabricators. I'll also be working with a couple of buddies from my auto class so I can basically go anywhere with this.

 

Then you'll have to make the decision between what engine size you're going with and whether carbureted or EFI (either Ford EFI or aftermarket EFI).

 

I am semi familiar with efi systems because it's basically all I work on at school, and I'm not afraid of wiring but ik just swapping in a Carb'd 302 or 351 will be easier. I'm just not sure if efi would be worth the time of installation. But like you said I could just buy a efi motor and if I decide I want carbeurated just swap intakes and such to make it carbeurated.

 

Obviously, on the front end, installing EFI requires more effort (parts and some wiring) and expense than just installing a carburetor.

However, once installed and any bugs worked out of the EFI system that MAY exist after installation, EFI is vastly more reliable than a carburetor.

You can tune a carburetor to be very responsive and in some cases, get decent gas mileage. However, a carburetor is a device that doesn't stay in tune and I've never seen one that started getting out of tune towards the lean side. It gets out of tune to the rich side. This means dumping even more fuel into the combustion chambers than is needed.

While gasoline is an excellent combustion accelerant, it also makes a great solvent. Excessive amounts of fuel in the combustion chambers washes away the oil layer on the cylinder walls and speeds up the process of wearing out the engine.

Carbureted engines are 'dumb' engines. EFI engines are 'intelligent' engines. EFI engine processors make constant adjustments to ignition timing, spark angle, and fuel injector pulse width modulation cycles. --it's like there's a little mechanic under the hood constantly adjusting the engine (on the fly), while you're driving the vehicle, for optimal operation and engine performance.

EFI with Mass Air induction can also compensate for changes in altitude. You'll never know it's even making changes because the engine will respond just like it always does.

Carburetors are a different story. For every 1,750 to 2,000 feet rise in elevation, the carburetor jets have to be changed one jet size (down) to make the engine run at optimal performance.--air is less dense as altitude increases thus, less air needs less fuel.

Pulling off to the side of the road to change carburetor jets isn't very convenient or practical but with EFI, it compensates for this automatically.

In essence, a carburetor is just a controlled leak.

For me, EFI and an overdrive transmission are the only way to go.

 

I would be looking at a 2010 or newer setup with OD if it were me.


John

 

An AOD or something along those lines is next on the list👍

 

Since flywheels, bellhousings, starters, and bolt patterns are the same between the 240, 300, 289, 302, and 351W, take your pick. Stick with a carb and points and it's a weekend swap.

 

You will have to get new engine perches. IIRC 68-79 302 equipped trucks, and 77-79 351M/400 equipped trucks will provide the perches.

 

John, for a budget the 5.0 EFI from an 80-90's Mustang would be the ticket as it became the new type of small block Chevy (sorry for the reference) for its swapability and performance upgrades.

 

I've also heard the c4 automatic with a shift kit is a good trans and that an AOD just robs horsepower. Any opinions?

 

Rich, We seem to have gone to offering Opinions by the bucket full around here, so I offered a little pour myself. I own two trucks a 66 F100 FE C6 PS/PDB upgrade, & a 06 4.6 OD. I love driving my big gonads 66, but when I head out the door I am usually crawling in my 06, it is quiter, rides smoother and will average at least 5 mpg better fuel milage. I ride with my bud that has a V6 and can hardly tell any difference power wise and he says I have to fill it when it gets low and doesn't check mpg. I rode in another buds Ecoboost 1 trip, and after we were rolling in 35 zone he smacked pedal and the tires started spinning, my 66 will not do that.

So that is why I posted with clairification "if it were me" earlier.


John

 

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