So I tried lowe's, local hardware and local parts store. Where can I find a check valve for my fuel line? Also, where is the best place for it? I was thinking in between my e-pump, which is mounted on the filter head bracket, and filter head. Or would it be better just before the e-pump? Also, does anyone know the part numbers of the olives on the return line at the back of the block?

 

Are you sure you're pump doesn't have a check valve? You could get a squeeze bulb primer pump like boats use to act as a check valve. Walmart sells them

 

Not sure bashby. Just heard that a check valve was a good addition to the system. I have been having trouble with hard start and checked it yesterday. After sitting overnight, I get air from the shrader valve. I just done away with the return line from the filter head today. Advice from tjc.

 

one should only make changes to fuel system, to (fix) a hard starting problem when you have carefully examined the glow plug system. does it start hard every morning ?? even when plugged in overnight?? cuz if it always starts right up and does not exhibit (air intrusion )symptom's when plugged in, it is a glow plug problem. plug it in for a week and see....

 

I put new zd9s in last winter and everything checks out ok. I'm getting air in the filter head after it sits overnight. I have come to the conclusion that the air in the filter head gets sucked into the ip when trying to start. After initial startup, it starts pretty good throughout the day. I do need batteries but it's the same on warm days too.

 

Squeeze bulbs seem to be the cheapest option; there are stand-alone spring-type ones available on Ebay, but they are more expensive too.
Your squeeze bulb will also tell you if you are sucking air and not fuel -- the bulb will be soft, not hard.

 

the E-pump should have a one way check valve in it.
how did it start this morning with the return line disconnected?

 

It was better but not right. It turns over too many times. My batteries are a little weak but even when it spins good, it takes too many turns to start.

 

is your E-pump hooked up with an oil pressure switch, or just wired to turn on at key on?

 

Comes on with the key. Even if I wait or cycle the gps twice, it doesn't start quick. Not sure how the air is getting into the filter head, but if I can't trace it down, gonna put a different filter system on it.

 

First, are you sure you've got air intrusion? Air intrusion is typically where the engine fires up, then dies a couple of seconds later. You then have to crank it for a while before it fires again.

If it just plain takes a while to fire, it could be one of two other issues:
1. GPs not getting hot enough. If you are seeing white smoke while cranking(i.e. unburnt fuel), this is definitely the case. If you were to disable the GPs and add a short squirt of ether, it would fire right up quicker.

2. IP getting worn internally. I've seen a few IPs get worn to the point where they have to crank for a couple of revs to build up the internal pressure needed to inject. Crank it too slow, and it won't fire at all. Crank it faster, and it'll fire much faster. In this case, you have pressure leaking between the rotor inside the IP and the stator/injection ports.

One way to definitely confirm you don't have air intrusion issues is to replace the line from the filter head to the input of the IP with clear hose(it's only 5PSI, no worries on pressure). If you've got that line filled with fuel after a night, no low-pressure-pump fixes will solve that problem.

 

yeah i don't think the issue is air.these are the things id ask myself in this order to get instant cold starts;
1.how are the batteries?
2.how are the battery cables?
3.how is the starter?
4.how are all the contact points? (grounds and terminals)
(notice how i place my priorities on quick,strong cranking power above all else.)
5.how is my gp system? did i test the complete system,not just the plugs as noted in the gp 101 thread? am i sure they're all motorcraft brand?
6.how is my compression? if the engine is worn and down on compression,she's never going to start like new again until a reman/replacement.
7.how many miles are on the ip and injectors? if over 100k,it's time to order a set.bad injectors cause hard starts.
8.is the timing in the ballpark of 6-10BTDC?
9.lastly,am i getting power to the fss and fuel to the injectors?
(i don't frig with fuel issues.i toss the oem pump,block it off and install a duralift e-pump with built in check valve right up at the engine.so i never need to deal with the most common problem with the engine.i eliminated the possibility of owning and engine that could start-stall-hard restart from my life.for $100 bucks,it made no sense not doing it.)

i have 1-2 second cold start times without a block heater down to 0F.

 

Batteries are on my list. It has new zd9s in it and gp system checks out ok. I get air from the shrader valve. I think that it's sucking the air into the ip when turning over. After it sits it gets the air back in the filter head.

 

Definitely need batteries. It turned over a little slow at first, then quickly turned over really slow. It did start though. Batteries and cables are first. Thinking of going ahead and moving one of the batteries for my future intercooler install. I have a Powerstroke intercooler ready to go. Just not sure which side I want to move one to. I know the passenger's side will mean shorter cables, but I really like the way excite routed his piping with his build. He put both batteries on the driver's side. It just looked like a cleaner setup to me, not that anyone else has an ugly setup, just a personal preference. I also think that my ip is causing some problems. It only has about 28-30,000 miles on it, of course that doesn't mean much sometimes. It's showing signs in other ways. It surges after throttling up and going down a hill when you hold the throttle to maintain speed. Used to be able to let out on the clutch and just go even loaded. Now you have to feather the throttle to take off empty.

 

IP's on the way out me thinks....
Damned 'reseal-job' rebuilds.