I am concerned my 2003 7.3L Ex is running to cold, so I installed the FIA winter grille cover. The temps listed below are with the cover installed. Is it bad to have the transmission run to cold? I was told by Clay at RiffRaff I should ideally be running between 170-180 all the time for best performance.*

Here is a little background on my truck. I had the transmission recently rebuilt, and had the shop install two Hayden coolers side by side in front of*the*radiator. I had overheating problems before towing my 8,000 lb TT.*

Here are my temps as read off of my BullyDog GT Tuner*after driving on the highway for 30 minutes, at about 70 MPH with ambient temps around 32 degrees Fahrenheit.*

Transmission temperature: 132 degrees, however at some points, say at a stop light, the temps would hover around 112 degrees.

Oil*Temperature: 183 degrees

What do you think?

 

I have the same issue. I installed a 6.0 cooler and while it's great out here in the summer, winter trips....not so much. I drove to Cheyenne for the holidays and my trans temp never got over 115. Thought about sliding a piece of cardboard in there to warm it up. I ordered a grill cover that I will use the next time I travel in cold weather.

 

There's oil temp info with grill covers in this thread, though I don't know if they discussed trans temps at all: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-chime-in.html. I imagine WhiteBuffalo will chime in if he sees this thread. He runs a grill cover and auto trans in the cold, as does HDRider.

 

I'm in the same boat. Rebuilt tranny with stock cooler and never gets above 100-110 when it's <30 degrees. Around 150-170 degrees in the summer with ambient at 90 degrees.

I used some cardboard that I covered with duct tape that covered 3/4 of the stock cooler and the temps went up to 130 degrees with ambient <30. That's not towing just normal driving.

 

Tranny temps should run about 70 degrees above OAT (outside air temp). sometimes higher when driving around town compared to highway since the torque converter is unlocked more and generates more heat. IIRC the torque converter doesn't lock until the tranny temps reaches 50 degrees F or so. Sometimes during the winter I wonder if my tranny gauge is functioning since it wont move off of the needle rest when it's below zero.

In addition, the tranny fluid lines connects to the bottom of the radiator. So once things start to warm up this will help.

 

Is this after the Ex has run for a while and reached normal operating temps? She should eventually reach the 190-200 Degree temp range at 32 degrees OAT. Unless your thermostat is not functioning properly......

 

This doesn't do a lot to answer your question, but I would suggest to just ensure the scheduled maintenance is performed on-time and especially in spring and fall.

First thing I noticed with these trucks is you can't depend on the PCM information for temperature. That's just the way it is with the older PWM PCM's. The Bully Dog GT Tuner, Scan Gauge, AE, etc. get their parameters from the PCM.

These trucks, if nothing else, probably have the best cooling systems ever. These things are cooling beasts! During the summer our trucks hover around perfect design parameters. Cold weather operation on the other hand places us in a dilemma of sorts.

I am much less concerned about low transmission temperatures than most. It's Hydraulic Fluid. It undergoes and extensive refinement process down to the molecular level because of its use and the diameter of passageways and susceptibility to high temperatures while still maintaining is properties.

**The FSM references "normal operating temperatures" but doesn't state what that temperature range is. I have looked through the FSM for both the Engine, Transmission, Powertrain Control Module Manual and ATSG Manual.

Finally, after years of looking, I stumbled across some papers in a Ford Re-Man Unit, it said to "check the fluid level when the temperature is between 150*F and 170*F and not to overfill."

** If anyone has ever seen this information in a FSM, PLEASE let me know where it is. This has been a decade of looking for me.

** Mark K (Former Transmission Engineer for Ford who's on here) Say's 180*F is the norm and 220 not's detrimental in high heat with heavy load - that's what I use.

I run a 203*F T-Stat year round. Cold where I live is 40*F and I'm shivering. Unless I'm driving 50 or so miles, I never see 203*F or anything close. Mostly hovers around 190*F at its highest, even towing heavy.

The same is true for my Transmission, I won't see 180*F unless I'm towing heavy. But, it will get up there quicker than the Engine. I also have the Haden (2ea) but have them in the stock location, maybe a little lower as you can see a few rows.

I have blocked the radiator front with cardboard when I lived in the North East (I'm never going back!). But, never here. Even with the cardboard I was lucky to see anywhere near normal temperatures.

Using a Laser Thermometer, or After market gauge and sender is really the only way to get as close as 15*F variances. The higher my transmission temperature reads in the summer (100*F Daytime Temp) is 180*F on the PCM. I can drop a thermocouple in the dip stick and it reads 20*F lower, (160*F) than the PCM. The few times I've ever seen 210*F while towing a 38' Car Hauler, when I checked it (in the fluid) it read only 190*

It's the same with the Oil and Water Temperature (*I have an Auto Trans so it's not a PCM reading for Water).

 

So moral of the story is to look into getting a 203*f thermostat and dedicated temp guages? The FIA cover I have does not cover the lower radiator, just the surface of the grill. Any suggestions for also covering the intercooler and lower radiator section?

 

Maybe, your solution would be to cover one of the Transmission Coolers directly with a piece of Card Board and see if your Trans Temp gets where you want it and leave the cover in place so you're getting some cab heat.

The 203*F Thermostat is what IH uses in their T444 (7.3). For what ever reason (I'm sure it was regulated) Ford Installed the 195*F.

The only reason I purchased the 203*F Thermostat was that it was on the web site where I purchased both the T-Stat Housing and Gasket rather than going to a dealer. There is much talk about the 203*F T-Stat which I did read but couldn't rationalize changing it before a scheduled maintenance.

I would not cover anything which restricts flow across the entire CAC. Colder is better and much more efficient.

A dedicated WTG is a good idea and good investment. The larger the sweep, the more accurate they tend to be.

 

I installed a tru-cool transmission cooler in front of my radiator. To keep my transmission temps warmer in the winter I designed and had my local upholstery shop make a cover out of "truckers vinyl". It has insulation on the front and back and velcro on all the flaps. I slide it behind the cooler and 2 flaps fold over the top and bottom and overlap across the front, then 2 side flaps fold around from the back and seal down the sides. I also put a "faucet sock" over my external transmission filter to help insulate it. My transmission temp will run between 145*-150* in temps around 30* and my oil temp is around 190*. I do not see any higher EGTs or signs of overheating with the air flow blockage the transmission cooler cover makes. My transmission temps used to be in the 130* range before I did this.

 

Did not think of that. I have one for my Motorcycle Oil Cooler.

 

Just a heads up to the cardboard users. I did this on my semi and driving through wet slushy snowy conditions the cardboard will saturate and get into the fins (I put the cardboard in front of the radiator) the cardboard saturated and got into the fins and I spent hours picking it out. You guys should try to use something a little tougher like a mudflap and some zip ties.

 

We've been using the Fia combo bug and winter front for a couple of seasons and remain very pleased with the quality of this item. The fit was perfect and with the screw-on snap studs its very secure. This from last winter's trip up to Yellowknife NWT.



Here is bug screen only



They offer fitments for most recent truck models

 

Sweet set up thanks for sharing! Nice pics but sho looks cold there.

Pretty much the same chassis 20 years later so I think it will fit.

 

I had this custom made to my DIMS and design. Has multiple openings based on ambient temps.

https://finestautotrim.com/