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I'm fighting to get it to pass emissions. HC 184, CO 5.60, CO2 10.98, curb idle 700 rpm, timing 10 btdc. That tells me I have a lot of unburnt gas. I get about 11 mpg. CO has to be blow 2.2. Everything else is in. I was just trying to figure if I was working against the solenoid.
Just energize the feedback solenoid, 12 volts on one wire and ground on the other, and retest.
If that doesn't work your carb might just need a carb kit. On my old carb I could see gas dripping out the small brass accelerator pump nozzle at idle.
The test is $10 a pop and the facility is 30 min from the house. Inconvenient at best. I guess I'm just trying to understand the beast. If I can understand it I can kill it.
Jim
This is what i was talking about with the vacuum. I was just wondering if the feedback system was tied in somehow. I know its a Jeep fourm but its still a Carter YF. *****'s Carter YF Carb - JEEPTALK.net
That is a cool animated graphic, but I think it is a pre-feedback carb.
You might just need a carb kit to fix your current carb.
On my carb the square gasket on the bottom of the accelerator pump assy was torn. This allow fuel to freely pass through the diaphragm and out the black hose and then drip out the brass nozzle, shown with the scribe stuck in it in the last photo.
Thanks Jim, I may just pull it tonight and look it over.
In the last photo, behind the brass tube with the scribe in it, is a hole that has a check ball and a weight. These items will fall out the first time you turn the carb over after you take the top off. Be sure to remove them first... before you loose them.
Also make sure the choke butterfly is opening fully after it is warmed up.
Good luck
Jim
Well I haven't had much luck. Still too much unused gas. I will probably go ahead with the DS2 swap.
Jim, I ran across a post with your first version of a GM module. Any advice on implementing that design?
I am seriously considering changing the carb as well. I haven't decided on an older Carter or an aftermarket 2 barrel. Too much information and not enough time to go through it all.
1986F150six,
Do you have a picture of the carb on the project you shared earlier in this forum? It looks like I can pick up a 1970's carb on Rockauto for around $150.
Well I haven't had much luck. Still too much unused gas. I will probably go ahead with the DS2 swap.
Jim, I ran across a post with your first version of a GM module. Any advice on implementing that design?
I am seriously considering changing the carb as well. I haven't decided on an older Carter or an aftermarket 2 barrel. Too much information and not enough time to go through it all.
If you can't find a DS2 harness off a 80-83 F150 with a six cylinder then then GM module would be a good choice.
I would just deal with the carb issues before the DS2 swap.
1986F150six,
Do you have a picture of the carb on the project you shared earlier in this forum? It looks like I can pick up a 1970's carb on Rockauto for around $150.
JOlee,
I believe this is the one. I, too, purchased it from Rockauto. It was remanufactured by a company named Autoline and has been excellent. Being from an older 300 engine, the mounting holes had to be elongated very slightly in order to fit the later model's wider spaced mounting bolts. It only took 15 minutes with a small round file. I used a carburetor to EGR adapter gasket for the later engine as a template. Very easy!
Some remanufactured carburetors already have the elongated holes so they can fit early or later manifolds.
Mileage and performance with this carburetor has been quite good.
Before ordering, "Google" Rockauto discount and you will get a number to be typed in on the order form. This will save you 5% and basically pay the freight!
Carb arrived today from Rockauto. I bought a re manufactured complete distributor from autozone and a GM 4 pin module. The next day I have off, I'm digging into it. I've been reading as much as I can about re curving the distributor and wiring the module in. All sources I read said I need to use the small slot for the centrifugal advance. So I tore down the distributor. What I found was not in any instructions. The stop had a plastic sleeve on it. (I'll try to post pics.) Not sure what to do with that but I left it on. Just seems like something to wear out. Also I have to figure out what to do with the 3rd wire coming from the distributor.
Almost anything has to be better than what I have now. 9-10 mpg and poor throttle response is no fun.
Ok. I am having some problems. I installed the distributor and module first. Adjusted it all out and test drove. No problems. Then I installed the carb with a manual choke. It idled a little rough but always has. I have 18 hg vacuum and the mechanical advance comes in at around 1500 rpm and stops around 2200 rpm. I'm only getting about 10 degrees of mechanical advance. Should i go back to the larger slot? I haven't checked the vacuum advance yet. (Needed a hose) The truck falls flat at around 1000 rpm. The vacuum drops to about 14 at 1000 rpm. I don't know why. It idles at about 650 rpm. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
the mechanical advance comes in at around 1500 rpm and stops around 2200 rpm. I'm only getting about 10 degrees of mechanical advance. Should i go back to the larger slot?
The plastic sleeve is limiting your mechanical advance. I would remove it; you might not then need to reverse the arms.
For some reason your arms aren't stamped with the normal 10L, 13L, 18L etc, to indicate the degrees of distributor shaft (vs crankshaft) advance they are allowing.
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