I'm reading that there is no camber adjustment from the factory for Expeditions, or at least for my year. Is this true? Just got some new tires and I'm going to get them put on and I wanted to get an alignment too but if I can't get one without a kit... I'd like to know so I can go armed with everything I need and get it all done at once. Or do it all myself but alignments and tire mounting/balancing is one thing that I've never tried even though I have access to an alignment rack and a wheel mount/balancer at the base hobby shop.


Anyone know if I can get it aligned as it is bone stock (4x4) or if I need a kit?

 

You might not need to adjust the camber at all. I'd check it out first to see where you're at.

Got this right out of the factory service manual: "The front caster and camber are adjusted by removing the lower arm-to-frame mounting bolts and installing adjuster kits to allow the arm to be adjusted in the frame slots. Front toe is adjusted by the use of the front wheel spindle tie-rod. The rear camber is adjusted by removing the upper arm-to-wheel knuckle mounting bolt and installing an adjuster kit to allow the wheel knuckle to be adjusted in the arm slot. The rear toe is adjusted by the use of the rear toe link."

 

Damn... So I need a bolt kit x4 then is what you are saying? I'd rather not get the new tires put on till I know the alignment will be good. I don't think I need any toe adjustment but the camber on both left wheels looks a little off just from the eye check. Tread wear backs this up as both left tires are worn more on the inside and the right tires are worn evenly...

Might just be bad ball joints tho? I don't want to dump a ton of $$ at this thing but if I need to do ball joints I can do it for pretty cheap myself via rockauto and I have access to a press and air tools and lifts at the base hobby shop so...

What would you recommend? The truck rides fine honestly and the suspension does not feel too worn or bouncy... Maybe just get the camber bolt kits and install them and then learn to set the alignment myself? I also have access to an alignment rack or I could just redneck it... I'd rather let the old set of tires stay on for another 500-1000 miles than put on the new ones and have them wear unevenly.

 

Exactly what I was going to suggest. The reason these trucks don't have camber adjusters is because if all of the parts are within specs then the caster will be good. Have you tested the ball joints yet? How about the front hubs, are they tight or worn?

 

Both hubs on the left have been replaced, the rear one less than 500 miles ago, it was shot... I just pulled the hub caps off and put my phone across two of the lugs with an inclinometer app. Every single wheel is 0.5 to .07 so they are all right there. Shot tires might be the only issue here. Replace and be more diligent about rotating?

 

That's a weakness of mine as well.

 

Yeah I checked again tonight when I got home. 0.5, 0.5, 0.5 and 0.7 via the app. I've done pinion angles with this same app so I'm confident its not lying. I guess the tires on that side both being worn make it look like its kicking out?


Anyway, I'm getting these ATS Wranglers put on on Monday. The one with the least tread has 9/32. The second has 10/32 and the other two might as well be brand new. No plugs, no patches, they look like they'll last a good while.


Any recommendations on what tires to have the shop put where on these trucks? Thinking putting the ones with slightly more wear out back and the ones with the most tread up front to handle the turning? I drive the Expy like a granny, no flooring it from lights or anything.

 

FYI, if the toe is running outward, then as you drive the bottoms of the tires get pulled out and can give the tire leaning in appearance you've described.