Hey guys I've done some research for a new 4' lift kit and the best was BDS. I was wondering if anyone ran those and how they ride on and off the road. Or if anyone knows the best lift kit for a 1996 Bronco. Thanks.

 

These are 2 posts from Greystreak. A very, very wise bronco guy.


"Since you said you have already seen pictures of Bronco's with 33's and 4" of suspension lift I won't tell you to have a look at the gallery with Greystreak in it.

What I can tell you is that lifting a TTB-equipped truck mandates that you be prepared for alignment concerns. Nothing is worse than chewing through a brand new set of 33's because you can't get the alignment to specs. Now, with that in mind, be aware that the ONLY way to adjust caster AND camber with a TTB front axle is by rotating the adjustment shims around the upper ball-joint studs. The shims are round and fit into the hole in the upper bracket. The holes are too big for the ball-joint stud without them so they MUST be used. The shims have a hole in them for the ball-joint studs. This hole is bored off-center so that as the shim is rotated in the bracket the stud moves the steering knuckle either inboard/outboard/forward/aft. Since this movement affects BOTH caster AND camber as the shim is rotated, you can only get so much adjustment to camber before affecting caster and vice-versa.

With all that said, there are a handful of folks who make shims with the hole for the ball-joint stud bored further off center than the OEM shims. (Ford and Superlift both to my knowledge). However, there is ONLY ONE suspension lift manufacturer that actually provides additional alignment adjustment in their lift equipment. (For those of you who will chime in and b!†ch that I am "advertising", shut up). This is fact, nothing more nothing less. Tuff Country is the only suspension lift manufacturer that provides adjustable radius arm pivot mounts and adjustable axle pivot mounts. With the adjustable pivot bolts at the radius arm mounting you get an additional +/-2.25º of caster adjustment that no F-series with a TTB front end EVER had. The same is true for the camber adjustment at the axle pivot mount bolts. This is IN ADDITION to the ball-joint shims the provide mush less adjustment before affecting the other settings.

Now you are asking, GS, really? How bad can it really be with just 4" of lift? Well, let me put it this way, the pros that align every vehicle I own were very glad that I put Tuff Country under Greystreak because they told me then, that with the OEM shims alone they could have gotten "close" but I would have had to sacrifice some caster to prevent camber from being off by enough to chew up the outboard shoulders of my new 33" BFG's.

I know thats my typical long-winded response but, if you are researching I have no doubt you have encountered much consternation and commentary about alignment with front axles between 1980-1996. I know I did and I opted for something that basically took the single most common issue with lifting a TTB axle and removed the problems. Take it for what its worth.

Oh, and do NOT buy Tuff Country's shocks! They are crap. Mine lost all paint and the shafts pitted within a year. Go with a name brand that you trust."


"Tuff Country
Superlift
Skyjacker
Pro Comp
Rough Country
BDS

All of the above make suspension lifts. Do yourself a huge favor and research this topic to death BEFORE you buy something. There are quirks and limitations to each product line and some manufacturers just churn out "generic kits" that will fit but won't last or will leave you with a lousy ride. There is a huge amount of information available on this topic but the BEST advice anyone can give you is to research it for yourself and make a well-educated decision about a product and modification that can either greatly improve the quality and capacity of your truck's suspension performance OR it can ruin it in short order. You will be modifying the very components that hold your truck on its wheels and keep its wheels in touch with the ground. The time taken pays off in a lift that performs just as beautifully as it makes the truck appear."

 

really look into how you plan on using the bronco. I myself should have gone with a 4" SAS lift an perhaps some minor fender trimming. this would allow my COG to stay low yet be adequate for most of the offroading I encounter.

if your just going to play in the snow at times or the mud at time but otherwise drive this bronco on the road a bunch the TTB lifts are sufficient. I have reached the max on what my lift can accomplish on most trails. in the snow the ttb really shines in my opinion as the suspension really works to stay on top of the snow with a good set of tires an momentum. understand that with a lift and larger tires that gearing change in the differentials may be necessary to get your vehicle back to stock driving manners. this will also help the engine and transmission not strain turning the added weight and mass of those tires.

 

So I've done a little bit more research on which lift I should go with and I was thinking either procomp or bds since they both have AAL. But I'm still deciding which would be better for me.

 

Remember to regear if you're getting bigger tires

 

I am. I'm thinking about getting 4.56

 

Re-gearing has more to do with tire size than just guessing what gear you want. 4.56 gears are about right for running a 36"+ tire. And if you still run a stock front end that is almost too much for off road use. More of a mall crawler type thing. Not saying you cant run a larger tire but if you get it in a bind stuff starts breaking.

 

"
So which gear would you recommend for 33" ?

 

Calculators

 

I ran 33s and 4.10s in my 84 F150. In the woods it was perfect, on the highway I found myself wishing I had overdrive. I think 3.73s would be a decent compromise if you don't have overdrive, and highway manners are a concern.

 

The OP's bronco would have overdrive. with that said he really needs to fill out his signature in the control panel of the forum with spec on his bronco. list the year, engine, trans and any other mods currently in place. this helps us help you.

now with that said. if you plan on only running 33's and you have a 5.8 I would suggest 4.10s or even 4.56 if for some reason 35's end up under your ride. I run 4.88's with 35's and with the OD its perfect in my opinion.

 

I'm running 4.88s locked front and rear with 37s on my 79 Bronco. It has a warmed up 460 with the C6, on the road it seems overgeared. Off road it feels just right, I can easily light up all 4 in hub-deep mud in high range. It's mainly a wheeler so being geared on the low side is perfect for my application. The deeper gearing also helps wisk away those pesky rice burners I occasionally find at stoplights!

 

I don't know if I want to go to 4.56 for my 79. Seems steep to run on the street occasionally. I am not lacking for power, so I am thinking 4.10 and 35's will work for me.

Most I do off road is in the sand at Silver Lake

 

I still run stock 3.50 gears in my 78 w/ 33's. It runs down the road well and if I need a lower gear in the woods there is always 4 lo. And even with my old boat anchor 351m it will light the rears up if I have a mind to.

 

I agree, 3.50, 3.54, 3.55 isn't a bad match with 33s. That's what I'm running in my 96 F150, even with 215k on the 300 six with a ZF 5 speed it gets with the program when you need it to.