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OP might want to verify what block he has, if he's lucky maybe it's been replaced already with the newer style.
Check the SN...
Should look like this (but hopefully better numbers!) some rebuilders affixed a plate or re-stamped something there, but the OEM serial number should be like this:
Edit: as a side note, if you have bolt in oilers, be very careful not to loose the bolts themselves. They are special bolts. Misplacing the oilers or bolts will be expensive and a real headache to find replacements.
The oil squirters, or more correctly piston cooling jets, are mounted on the block and aimed upwards at the bottom surface of each piston. The function is to cool the piston surface. In order to line bore or sleeve the cylinder, the oiler has to come out. The alignment is quite important. The installation tools for the press-in type consisted of a an alignment block and a hammering tool to tap the oiler in by transferring the force to the shoulder flange on the oiler. These tools really aren't available. Many have tried. There is a thread on that topic here.
The best you can do is pay close attention to the original alignment, and fabricate your own hammering tool. Look at the last page of this thread so see what others have done.
It is mentioned in that thread that the oilers have an interference fit. Therefore the oiler body changes in diameter when it is pressed in, and will never be tight if you remove them and try to press them back in. In fact, they should be pressed straight in and never twisted in the block bore. If the alignment needs adjusting it is preferable to bend the tube to achieve desired placement of the tip rather that twisting the oiler in the bore. There are many threads similar to the one above where one or more of the oilers have fallen out of a fresh rebuild and required repairs. Removal and re-use is simply not a good idea.
I do not know the Ford or International part numbers off hand, but I recall that the last new old stock press-in oilers people found were through International, not Ford. They were paying $56? or so for EACH oiler. Acceptable if you desperately need just one to repair an engine, but for a full line bore rebuild you are talking $500 just in unobtanium oilers. This threw me off of ever rebuilding a press-in oiler 6.9. In my area, $500 will buy you a running 6.9 drop in, and an engine block from the U-Pickit runs $100. The bolt in type blocks (mid-year 1985 and up) won't fall out, are self aligning, and can be re-used. I am not trying to persuade you against rebuilding your engine, just trying to arm you with information so that you know what you are getting into. If your block needs bored (which I am sure it will with rings rusted to it) I would for sure source the oilers first, but wait to buy them until your machine shop does the rest of the block work and confirms that all is good.
Well I wish I could find those deals around here I can't even find a block around here. I would rather get a drop in that I could refresh or rebuild. What area are you in if it's close enough or maybe I can find one and have it shipped here.
Should look like this (but hopefully better numbers!) some rebuilders affixed a plate or re-stamped something there, but the OEM serial number should be like this:
Edit: as a side note, if you have bolt in oilers, be very careful not to loose the bolts themselves. They are special bolts. Misplacing the oilers or bolts will be expensive and a real headache to find replacements.
Wow, doesn't this place have all the info or what? I'd rep F834 again, but they won't let me.
Well I wish I could find those deals around here I can't even find a block around here. I would rather get a drop in that I could refresh or rebuild. What area are you in if it's close enough or maybe I can find one and have it shipped here.
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
there are a few 6.9 complete engines in VA for under $1000, and if you want to upgrade to the 7.3 there are some of those listed too.
blocks are there too. there is a 6.9 block listed for $500, and the 7.3 blocks range from $100 to $450
no problem. but there is a cost. you must stick around and help others when you can to repay the kindness shown to you.
Will do defiantly will be sticking around there is much more for me to learn myself. Hopefully I will learn a lot doing this restoration of my truck, that I will be able to help others.
01-22-2015, 09:46 AM
