Hello I bought a 1983 f250 with 6.9. The block plate that the started mounts to has broke where the starter mounts. I can not find one and was wondering if some one could point me in the right direction or might have one that they might be willing to part with. My truck has a 4 speed manual trans in it don't know if it makes a difference thanks in advance.

 

Sounds like you need the inch thick transmission bellhousing adapter plate. This will be the same for all manual or automatic trucks with the 6.9 or 7.3 IDI from 1983-1994. If there are any such trucks in your local junkyard that will be your quickest fix. I have an extra one laying around at my dad's place, but I am on a crazy work schedule and it will probably be a couple weeks before I'd get a chance to go look for it. If you can't find one locally let me know I can probably help you out. Where did it crack? Is it not something you could have welded up?

 

Thanks for the reply that is exactly what I need. It broke off with the starter I might be able to be welded but the only person who is willing to try can't get to it for a while. I haven't been able to find anything locally at any junk yards. I have just found a couple on ebay just a few minutes ago. This is just one of the issues I am having. I believe the engine is hydro locked and when I tried to start it it snapped the starter off. This happened about 6 months ago and between work and school I haven't had the time to do anything with it. But I am ready to get on it soon. I am thinking that since I will have to at least drop the trans to get to the plate and pull the heads off that I might do a complete rebuild of the engine. I am planning on it becoming my daily driver and it would be cheaper to do this then buy another truck. I am a huge fan of the earily 80's ford trucks. Also the glow plug system has not worked for a while and the previous owner used starter fluid on it all the time, another reason for wanting to rebuild it to see what I have. What would you expect to pay for that plate?

 

if the engine is hydro locked, i would not spend a penny on it until you take it apart.
6 months of water/coolant in the cylinders will almost guarantee that block is scrap and you will be looking for a new engine.

 

If the engine is hydro locked you should probably tear it down and make sure it is builable before you spend any money on that plate. Often the cowl weatherstripping goes bad and water pools in the center of the air cleaner and runs down into the cylinders through the intake. If it happened while sitting I would suspect that as a probable culprit. The question is how long has the water been in there and how corroded are the cylinder walls and rings. Rebuilds on these diesels are a bit more parts pricey than a gasser master kit, but depending on what it needs you can freshen it up pretty cheap buying just what is nescessary. If it is badly pitted you will be looking at a re-bore and oversize pistons which adds to the cost. You might opt for find a running drop in which should include the plate. In my area a running 6.9 or 7.3 usually fetches $500 to $800 on Craigslist. But availability varies locally. I have no idea what that adapter plate should be priced at, but I'll send you the one I have for the price of shipping if you are not in a huge rush. I think you have to make a certain number of posts before you can use private messaging on this board but if you want to e-mail me you can Jonathan.A.Donald@gmail.com. Welcome to the forum, I am also a huge fan of the early body style. These trucks are just great. Good luck with your project. Read the links in the FAQ, they are a great resource, and I still refer to it often. Any other questions just ask. This is a great forum, welcome aboard

Edit: Tom beat me to the advice on checking the block. Keep in mind the '83 engines had blocks that liked to crack around the block heater as well as slightly weaker more crack prone heads. I would personally not invest large amounts of money rebuilding an '83 engine. In fact the 6.9's pre mid year 1985 used press in piston oilers. The must be removed to bore the pistons. New oilers are no longer available, and the correct tools to install them are even more esoteric. If you try to re-use press in oilers they can fall out and you loose oil pressure in your brand new rebuild. Not trying to be a wet blanket, just trying to steer you away from disaster. Pull the heads, check the cylinders and see what you got... then go from there.

Re-edit: Block SN 237016 and later had the bolt in oilers, all earlier ones had press in. The SN is located on the flat spot next to the injection pump on the driver side. It starts 6.9D U2U ****** on our pick up applications.

 

Welcome to FTE

F1TZ-7007-E (replaced E3TZ-7007-H & E7TZ-7007-C) .. Engine Rear Plate-6.9/7.3L - Use with M/T (not listed in the Ford truck parts catalog for A/T).

Marked with ID number: E3TA-AA or E9TA-AA or F1TE-BA or F2TA-BA or E7TA-6A373-AA

HAVEN FORD in Haven KS has 1 = 620-465-2252.

RM STOUDT in Jamestown ND has 1 = 701-252-2270.

NOS PARTS SOURCE in Olathe KS has 1 = 913-220-5746.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.

ARLINGTON HEIGHTS FORD in Arlington Heights IL has 1 = 847-870-1300.

POECS PARTS in Erie PA has 3 = 888-864-9305.

VINTAGE PARTS in Beaver Dam WI has 248 = 877-846-8243.

 

Thanks for the responses guys it's a lot of info I will hopefully be able to pull the heads off soon as for how long it sat before I tried to start it it was only a couple of days after I had ran it when it was locked up.

 

Number dummy I guess I wasn't looking in the right place thanks

 

Get those heads off ASAP, drain the oil and get the piston walls and rings coated with new oil. Any idea what happened to hydro lock it?

 

I am not totally sure I had someone tell me that it could have been a head gasket leaking or an injector stuck open and flooded the cylinder but I am not sue I am pretty new to diesels.

 

I have never heard of an injector flooding a piston. Head gasket, cylinder cavitation, and water pooling on the air cleaner are the typical culprits.

 

Maybe a dumb question, but have you tried to turn the engine over by hand? That would be a good first step to see if the block you have is still viable.
15/16th socket on the crank bolt.

 

No I haven't the engine would not turn over with the starter and that's when the adaptor plate broke and I kind of got frustrated because every time I fixed something something else broke, now that I have had some time I am ready to give it another go. I am hoping that I didn't ruin the block by letting it sit so long. I would really like to get it fixed up. It is in great shape otherwise the frame and body are great needs a paint job. I would love to make it my Dailey driver. My current truck is a 01 dodge that is getting pretty tired.

 

I looked into a jasper rebuilt engine but they want 5400 for a long block and 7500 for a turn key which is way more then I would be willing to spend I am ok with spending 4-5k to get it totally done paint tires and everything but not on just the engine.

 

Running used engines go for $500-1000. I bought a running truck with bad trans for $900 off craigslist.