I am noticing that when I am starting out in 2nd gear and I get on it a little the rear end starts hopping. What is causing this and what can I do to fix it?

 

"Axle wrap"

Lighten up on the acceleration.
Traction bars or a torque arm.

 

Sounds like you're getting axle wrap. This is a great way to blow out u-joints. If you don't have much lift you can probably get by with some traction bars, but ladder bars are a lot better IMO.

 

Let off the gas if you are "power hopping" sorta like. Yes it is axle wrap, and great way to trash a rear u joint, d/s, ring and pinion flange. So add some weight in the bed or yes traction bars or ladder bars or just quite "getting on it a little". lol

Does you truck have a lift kit with stacked blocks in the rear?

 

I can't help but "Get on it a little"!! I have babied it since putting in the new motor and now that it is broken in and I have new exhaust it is hard not to! Actually, I really didn't lean into it very much at all. Just pulled out on the highway and it did it. I have a 2" body lift. No suspension lift (yet) but a 4" suspension lift is coming very soon. Anyone recommend any traction bars?

 

James Duff Enterprises.... might have to mod it though. Or build your own. EZ.

Ford Traction Bars, Stabilizers and Brackets by James Duff Enterprises

 

Any big difference or advantage to traction bars like the ones just posted or "ladder" type bars? Those ladder bars "look" cool but are way more expensive than just regular bars.

 

1st time you break something that is half way expensive or hard to replace (snap an axle) you will quite.... lol. It is because it's so light in the back end and under the torque of the motor and then transferred thru the axle twist the leaf springs are "S" curving.

With the 4" lift it will only get worse, because I am sure you will get stacked blocks for the rear, so more torque leverage working against you and your leaf springs.

My blue truck came with PO stacked rear blocks and 460 4 spd, so as me about back end wheel hope...yes it does it too. I think my back tires come off the ground by a foot. lol

Getting the 4" lift with new rear leaf springs that do not require you to use a rear block at all, it the best way to reduce axle hop and get the tires to hook up. "Atlas" offers such a set up I do believe?

Atlas Suspension

2nd pic is Bronco Graveyard stuff Superlift Traction Bar Kit-Broncograveyard.com

L&L L&L Traction Bar Kit, 9 & Dana 60 (3.25 Axle)-Broncograveyard.com

Remember the most traction bars set ups reduce rear suspension travel and flex for off rorading. And some reduce ground clearance...there is one that works above the axle. I am trying to locate it....

Ck out Northwest Off Road (pic #4) and read this https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...with-pics.html

 

Getting warmer. Pic # 3 is a great way to use the blocks as a lift and tie the traction bar into it, rather than a bolt on over the leaf or weld on set up.

Sam's Off-Road Traction Bar - 4x4Review Off Road Magazine

 

just remember, no matter what traction device you buy or build, make sure its mounted as parallel to the ground as you can get it. Ladder bar's are actually suppose to be pointing down ward in the front NOT pointing up hill. IMO ladder bars on these trucks are useless (the higher) the truck is the less affective the ladder bar becomes.

 

When you do something about a weak point you just move the weak point somewhere else. Next thing in line from rear end is driveshaft, then tranny. Might be better off to ease up on throttle or change rear tire size.

 

Other damageable items are axle shafts, Ring & Pinion, output flange of transfer case and on axle. D/s splines...u joints, it's only money and parts right?

U joint are suppose to be the weak link anyway. Here is how you change them, right?

 

I don't see how you can say ladder bars are less effective the higher the truck. If anything I would say the opposite. The more suspension lift on the truck, the less parallel a traction bar would become, thus limiting effectiveness and suspension articulation. Ladder bars can be mounted further up on the frame, therefore maintaining a more parallel angle and not limiting effectiveness or articulation. The only downside I see to ladder bars are the cost and amount of fab work. There's a reason all the lifted diesel guys run ladder bars.

 

I really like the pictures of the blowed up rear end!! I think you guys are thinking that I am thrashing this truck! I understand what things cost and the seriousness of safety. I had a 97 F150 with 10 inches of lift and 38's years ago. Had the drive shaft break the yoke 2 different time. Once in a parking lot and the other was going 70 down the interstate. That will make you pucker for sure!!

Anyhow, does anyone know what the diameter of my back axle housing is without me crawling under there? It is a Dana 60. I am most likely going to go with ladder bars and will have then fabbed up right here in town at the local metal shop. They do a ton of work for the company I work for and are very reasonable on price. Thanks!!

 

No I do not think you are not trashing it, just driving it. I posted those pics to show you what can happen, some folks react to pic's better, that's all.

3.125" diameter axle tube

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/60DIMSPEC-812.pdf