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^^^^^ +1; it's a generic cord. I've only seen a few connector configurations for the heater end for those block heater cords. Ours are nothing "unique". IIRC, it's the common round shape. In fact I think it was this one: NAPA AUTO PARTS that I purchased after last year's episode.
blageurt, that wont fit because its for a 99-03 7.3 so im pretty sure they have a different cord. the cord I have is not screw on, it has a retaining clip. and I dont know what NAPA was thinking but at least i know the Motorcraft part will last.
the cord I have is not screw on, it has a retaining clip.
The cord with the threaded retainer nut will work. If you look at where the clip on the OEM cord attaches, it clips onto a threaded fitting. These heater elements and cords are fairly standard. I'm currently (no pun intended) running the NAPA cord with the retainer nut; it threaded right onto the fitting on the OEM element.
The cord with the threaded retainer nut will work. If you look at where the clip on the OEM cord attaches, it clips onto a threaded fitting. These heater elements and cords are fairly standard. I'm currently (no pun intended) running the NAPA cord with the retainer nut; it threaded right onto the fitting on the OEM element.
I wish I had known that! I'll see if i can return it, because $50+ in savings is worth it.
for what it's worth, the factory block heater on my '96 only draws around 900 watts. The temp was dropping to the single digits the other night and of course I go to plug the block heater in and no-go... had to clip the plug off and replace it BUT i didn't have a replacement plug readily available. However I did have a few cords laying around. They were only 16 gauge so I was leery about using them so after metering the block heater ( 15.9 ohms) and then doing a little math....they draw 900 watts or 7.5 amps at 120v. This was a no-brainer, 16 gauge wire can safely handle 1300 watts. SO moral of my long *** story is that you can get away with some lighter gauge wire. You don't need to go buy a $100 cable. The cord I clipped off an old shop flourescent was plenty fine.
^^^ That 15.9 ohms probably includes some internal resistance of the meter; I always seem to get about 1-2 ohms when I touch the probes together. The device I linked in post #6 does a better job of showing the actual power draw.
Indeed, 16ga should be plenty, for the length of the cord going from the element to the grille. In fact, a lot of the replacement cords are 16ga. But the 14ga replacement cords are nowhere near $100; more like $20-25.
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