Regardless I have new harness's on the way I have done the 50 cent mod to this truck before and yes my harness's were loose then but I didn't even bother to look inside the connectors or analyze anything. I will take everything apart and check this out when my new parts show up a long with glow plugs. what should the continuity be on the valve cover gaskets? I also noticed yesterday I think the passenger side harness has an intermittent short in that also because one injector will knock randomly and it was yesterday when it ran like crap but it hasn't done it at all today so far. i saw a video on YouTube of a guy with a uvch shorting randomly and his truck acted just like mine. Shaking randomly, lost a lot of power but I'll find the truth next week when I take it apart and let you guys know what I discover.

 

The UVCH link in my signature does a great job of checking continuity of everything from the 42-pin connector and back to itself. To analyze the VC gasket, it's mostly visual with a magnifying glass, then test for zero ohms from each outside pin to each inside pin. You'll see if anything is charred or melted from arcing - which would warrant a replacement.

 

Ok guys so I messed with the truck a little the other day and I replaced the cps and fuel filter but I didn't notice anything wrong with the passenger uvch. So I put it back together. Truck runs much better strangely. But today it was another 0 degree day and after starting it I let it warm up a bit then went to turn onto the road from a dead stop and the rpms went up to 2k then dropped to maybe 1800 then back to 2k a few times all at the same time though but I lost a lot of power when this happened the truck felt like something was dragging it down on and off so I checked the codes on my edge evolution and got a whole list! Let me post them all in order.
P1280
P0472
P0198
P1119
P0475
P0541
I do have my air intake heater deleted along with the turbo pedestal gutted and turbo flap removed. The truck runs just fine again after this little problem it smoothed itself out within 10 seconds of accelerating if that and hasn't acted up again. I'm thinking its a defective icp possibly but I honestly have no clue on at a loss now. Brand new ipr also and ebps and I know that tube isn't plugged for the back pressure.

 

P1280 jumps out of the list to me. Check the wiring to the ICP sensor. If the problem is consistent enough to notice a difference, unplug the ICP sensor and see if the truck acts better. Won't be perfect with it unplugged, but should at least be smoother.

 

IPR gets a piece of this. Verify all is well there.

 

the ipr is brand new but i would like to test both the icp and ipr connectors im sure i can look that up online but do you know a way to test the icp sensor? resistance?

 

i will check everything. i noticed today idling at lights on my way to work then school the truck doesnt have a perfectly steady idle. im trying not to be a stickler on stuff i know everything doesnt idle perfect but i could feel a bass difference in the motor idling and hear the pitch of the engine change very slightly. i dont believe its the ipr since thats new but could be the connector! still could be icp also.... i may start it and shake the connectors and see what happens.

 

I was just thinking making sure the nut was secure and the IPR isn't leaking. Since you have a new OEM in there, I would move on.


You are now calling out from inside the rabbit hole. You can chase a gasser-smooth idle on HEUI injectors as I have, but it won't likely happen without lubing all the parts on the Buck$Zooka and giving it a fresh fill-up.

 

Gus I'm going to post a few videos for you to examine we have got to figure this out I'm sending it to ford friday hopefully and I really hate to do that but they have the tools that I don't. I drove it to Indy and back yesterday and I live basically at the indiana/Michigan border. It acted up the whole way there and back it was a turd on and off it simply lacks power then shifts hard you can't tell in my video that it's shifting hard though and why does the truck shake really bad around 38-50 mph sometimes?! Hang on let me get these videos and seriously throw any idea at me and I will check it out. I'm desperate this is really irritating me now. But also the tack randomly dropped between 1800-2000 rpms cruising on the freeway but I had zero power loss I cought a little movement on camera for you to see. Would that affect anything electronic? I know if j want to convert to a manual trans I have to swap the dash cluster out I've been told or else the truck won't run right I guess so idk if hat is true but I'll look into it. Also my oil gauge used to bounce just a tad and sometimes it's right at the half mark other times it's just above. Again maybe that's tied into the tac though. Maybe the whole cluster is failing. also I monitored with my edge sometimes the engine won't start until the icp gets to 2200 psi then it starts other times it'll start right up mith in the first turn over of the engjne. That screams icp to me but let me know opinions.

 

http://youtu.be/thEJU3s37Oo

Watch at 10 seconds I believe it does it there

 

http://youtu.be/jUIDEWIwGbI

I unplugged the icp then plugged it in that's why the cel is on other than that you can hear the dash rattle some that's when it gets that low bass idle. Let me know if you want more clips

 

The oil pressure "gauge" is a switch indicator, nothing more. It could be a light bulb for all it does - "Yup, the oil pressure switch is closed". If it drops, that means you have a voltage drop to the gauge.

Voltage dips would explain a host of symptoms, so I would have a good look at that.

You could also have a bad connection to the gauge cluster. I removed mine, cleaned it, replaced every bulb, and cleaned the contacts as a preventative measure. You may need the same treatment as a service measure.

 

I played with connections to sensors under the truck and it's running great again. I don't know if the vss is causing the rpm gauge to flex or what get but in going to keep an eye on the alt voltage I wonder if the alt is getting weak every now and then dragging all the electronics down with it. Another person on here says to try unplugging the fuel bowl heater because it can short and cause problems so next time it acts up I will try that also. I'm going to start unplugging sensors one at a time until I figure this out. I may take the alt off tomorrow and get it tested I have heard multiple times of them causing havoc on electronics. I'll see.

 

Hey guys just wanted to follow up on the problem. Wen a shop installed my egt and fuel pressure along with the pillar they never put my fuse box cover back on right heck they didn't even use add a fuse connectors they just pulled 2 fuses and stick the wire in with the fuse on top. But they never put the cover on the fuse box so it wasn't holding any fuses in tight and I found a decent amount of them rather loose some with corrosion. Then the insides of the ipr plug is filled with some type of sealant that seems to be melting and the wires move very freely in and out and side to side I pushed the wires away from each other and the truck started up like it used to basically as soon as you turn the key it's on. I have a new pig tail here I need to put on soon other than that that's what I found. Thanks for the ideas

 

Wow.... multiple issues. I hate those. A loose IPR pigtail will certainly cause problems - good find. Thanks for reporting back!