Hi all,


I've been having a problem here for a little bit, I think I know what it is but I really could use some advice. My thing is construction I love to build things, mechanicing is more a necessity for me. Anyways here is my problem, when I try to crank my 6L it takes for ever (10-15sec) before she will start. I've done some rooting around and I believe that the oil is draining down back into the pan.
Does anybody have any ideas where I should look? Are there seals in the oil cooler that need to be replaced, how about the stand pipe for the HPOP?
Any comments or advice would be appreciated, also if I do have to go all the way down to the oil cooler again (EGR DELETE last time) are there other things that should be done while I've got the top open?


Thanks,
BigJohn
2006 6.0L F-250 Super Duty Crew Cab
If it ain't broke, use a bigger hammer...

 

Do you have any gauges to confirm it?

 

Verify you have a FORD OEM Oil Cap AND FILTER. (Having the wrong CAP + Filter will cause oil to flow back down the filter housing)
Make sure you have fuel pressure (an add-on gauge is required)
Watch you ICP/IPR values while cranking (requires an ODBII gauge: scangauge2 or smartphone APP + ODBII adaptor)

As you can see, without an ODBII gauge to "see" what's happening it's all sort of a guessing game.

 

Some common things on our year trucks are the standpipes and dummy plugs. And the Stc fitting. The pipes and plugs aren't bad to do. The Stc the turbo has to come off if your have an edr delete you can leave the intake on and get the hpop cover off. But as mentioned without some kind of gauges we are all guessing. If you have an android device the torque app and Bluetooth obd2 adaptor is the cheapest way to go.

 

Everything on my girl is OEM except for the Diesel-Lite Coolant filter I added when I did my EGR delete. I don't have any gauges or an OBDII so I guess I'll be making an investment
thanks for the insight


BigJohn

 

Some known issues with the 05' and up are as previously mentioned the standpipes, dummy plugs and the STC fitting all of which should be addressed before you start having hot no starts. If you are having long cold starts I would check the FICM voltage, it needs to be greater than 45 volts at all times from KOEO, cranking, idle and WOT, if its not then it needs to be repaired and the best place to get that done is at www.FICMrepair.com . There is a FICM test procedure in the tech folder at the top of this forum that outlines how to test the FICM with a digital volt meter, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html You do really need some gauges that read live data like the scan gauge II, one of the smartphone apps like dashboss for IOS devices or torque pro for android or something like the Edge Insight CTS to diagnose problems and to just keep an eye on things.

 

I was about to post a similar thread, continuing my earlier thread.

My problem started immediately after replacing my ICP sensor. The next morning it took a long crank before starting. Actually, I've never just cranked it once until it started, thinking I might overheat the starter or that it might be a fuel issue. Instead, I cranked about 15 seconds, stopped, recycled cranked again about 15, recycled, and it started on the third crank. Threw out a puff of white smoke that rose up in the air. For the rest of the day, it starts just fine.

It does that every day, but only if I let if get stone cold. I came out at 3am after stopping driving around 10pm and it started right up, and then started just fine again in the morning. But, if I leave it off from 10pm til the morning, I get the long crank syndrome.

What should I be looking for on my ScanGauge? When I started this morning, for the first time I thought to look at my oil pressure gauge while cranking, but I messed up. Cranked it for about 10-15 seconds and the oil gauge didn't move, but right as I let off the key, it jumped to normal, then when I cranked again, it fired right up.

Is there anything about replacing the ICP that could have led to this, or maybe better stated, allowed this problem to surface? Just strange that it started exactly when I made the change. The new sensor fixed the other problems I was having with ScanGauge - no ICP voltage registering (although the truck ran just fine) and the IPR never going below 32 (which I figure was the "implied" reading when no reading was being received, although it seemed to read normal while driving, it just wouldn't go down to 24 at warm idle. Now it does.)

I just came off a 3000 mile road trip through the Appalachians pulling 10k pounds on my trailer and the truck performed just fine. Never really stopped long enough for it to go stone cold, but I got home yesterday and when I came out this morning, it did it again.

 

Next cold start monitor the ICP pressure as you are cranking, does it go over 500 long before it starts or does it start as soon as its over 500 and it just takes a long time to get there? And also what is the ICPV reading at KOEO?

 

OK, I'll check those in the morning.

 

My ICPV is .22 at KOEO, and my ICP goes well over 500 (I stopped cranking when it was at 1600).

Strange, it makes a sound like a gas engine trying to start before taking a while longer to crank and finally starting. Never had it or my diesel tractor do that. They've always either started or not started.

Does that sound like a fuel issue? Actually due for a fuel filter replacement now, but it wasn't when this issue started, and I've recently replaced fuel pump and blue spring.

Wondering if I have an electrical short in that sensor circuit that's making it act funny. Maybe I'll try unplugging the ICP sensor and see what that does.

 

IF you have an ODBII gauge (SG2, etc.) try watching your cam/crankshaft SYNC values.. if they aren't in sync the engine won't start..

pulled the values from an old thread..

If you have no sync between CMP/CKP sensors the truck wouldnt Start at all

try these codes
SYC Crankshaft Position Sensor TXD: 07E02209CD RXF: 0462050906CD RXD: 3000 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: SYC

Alternate - if the 1st doesn't work..
SYC Camshaft & Crankshaft in sync (1 = in sync) (AlternTXD: 07E02209CD RXF: 0462050906CD RXD: 3001 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: SYC

 

They are in sync. And it does start, just takes a while the very first time from a dead cold. After that, it starts fine forever, until I let it go dead cold again.

Thx

 

I would note the FICM volts at KOEO and cranking. I would also try turning the key on and wait 20 seconds then cycle the key off and back on and attempt to start it when the glow plug wait light goes out and see if that shortens the start time. I'm wondering if the secondary fuel filter housing isn't draining after sitting for a long period of time.

 

Well, I've kinda been doing that before - I start cranking, and when it didn't start after 10-15 seconds, I cycled the key off/on and tried again, then do it one more time, and it usually starts fairly quickly that third time. I was doing it to keep the starter from getting hot, but also to make sure there was fuel. During the second cycle in that scenario is when it made that sound like a gas engine trying to start.

This morning, I just kept cranking it the first time, and after about 25 seconds, it started making that gas engine sound. Prolly would have started if I kept cranking, but I was just trying to check the ICP so I didn't continue.

Also, when it finally does start, a puff of white smoke comes out the exhaust and rises - I thought that was excess fuel from me cycling it three times.

I think you might be right about it draining out. Strange that it takes so long. After 4-5 hours sitting, it still starts right up. What would make it drain like that?

Thinking...I do have one injector that I haven't replaced. Wonder if it's leaking fuel? I need to change my oil, so maybe I start it up, then shut it down and drain all the oil out and leave the plug out and see if fuel drains out of the pan overnight.

Still strange that it didn't start doing this until I replaced that sensor.

 

I think in the interest of the original poster that you should start a new thread so his doesn't get lost in the shuffle. I would pull the secondary fuel filter on the next cold start and see if there is fuel in the housing.