power
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 431
Likes: 4
From: renfrew canada
Should be on the firewall over by the master cylinders. White rectangular porcelin-y lookin' thing with one screw holding ot to the firewall. with two spade type wiring terminals on it (red wires) if i remember correctly.
However if you have a 60 It's possible that the truck has a resistor wire built into the harness.
Mikie
Near ottawa canada
58 m-100 panel & 64 econoline p/u
However if you have a 60 It's possible that the truck has a resistor wire built into the harness.
Mikie
Near ottawa canada
58 m-100 panel & 64 econoline p/u
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Junior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: St. Francis
1960 223 F100 resistor
Could it be on top of the Heater assembly?
I was working on my heater, took the front motor housing off. as the wires were not connected to anything, and behind the housing ontop of the air box was what looked like a flat piece with two spade connectors facing up the wires were not connected to anything, just hanging loose. I thought it was something to do with the two speed fan wiring.
Truck ran when I brought it home - Installed a new starter solenoid and starter not sure why just cuz they looked really crappy and old.
Tried starting it after I rewired the heater (and removed the wires from the ? on top of the air box.
Turn key and get OL on meter on battery terminal to solenoid, also get OL on "I"terminal .
Need to take a break getting a head ache. I just need to absorb what I found and hope to get a little help from the other owner.
I was working on my heater, took the front motor housing off. as the wires were not connected to anything, and behind the housing ontop of the air box was what looked like a flat piece with two spade connectors facing up the wires were not connected to anything, just hanging loose. I thought it was something to do with the two speed fan wiring.
Truck ran when I brought it home - Installed a new starter solenoid and starter not sure why just cuz they looked really crappy and old.
Tried starting it after I rewired the heater (and removed the wires from the ? on top of the air box.
Turn key and get OL on meter on battery terminal to solenoid, also get OL on "I"terminal .
Need to take a break getting a head ache. I just need to absorb what I found and hope to get a little help from the other owner.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 431
Likes: 4
From: renfrew canada
usually the one on the heater is a little wire coily lookin thing, usually mounted on a little bakelite-y board.
Like i say. If the truck is a 60 it could have a resistor wire imbedded within the wiring harness (pink i believe) Number dummy should be able to shed lite on this.
A failed ballast resistor will tend to allow the truck to start as long as the key is in "crank' position and as soon as the key is released it will quit.
recheck to make sure you got all the wires right when u installed the new solenoid.
The "S" wire comes off the ign. switch and causes the metal coil/bar inside to jump up and complete the heavy (battery cable size wire) circuit to the starter, when the key is turned. The "I" wire bypasses the ballast resistor and sends full voltage to the coil as long as the key is in crank position. Reason for this....With the starter motor being such a heavy draw on the electrical system the 8 volts or so coming out of the ballast resistor would be cut down to between 2 & 4 volts, not nuff' for the coil to make a spark from with the starter motor doin' it's thing.
Maybe u got a bum solenoid. try another one on it.
hope this 'splains the relationship between the solenoid & ballast res. good nuff' for you
Mikie
near ottawa Canada
58 m-100 panel & 64 econoline p/u
Like i say. If the truck is a 60 it could have a resistor wire imbedded within the wiring harness (pink i believe) Number dummy should be able to shed lite on this.
A failed ballast resistor will tend to allow the truck to start as long as the key is in "crank' position and as soon as the key is released it will quit.
recheck to make sure you got all the wires right when u installed the new solenoid.
The "S" wire comes off the ign. switch and causes the metal coil/bar inside to jump up and complete the heavy (battery cable size wire) circuit to the starter, when the key is turned. The "I" wire bypasses the ballast resistor and sends full voltage to the coil as long as the key is in crank position. Reason for this....With the starter motor being such a heavy draw on the electrical system the 8 volts or so coming out of the ballast resistor would be cut down to between 2 & 4 volts, not nuff' for the coil to make a spark from with the starter motor doin' it's thing.
Maybe u got a bum solenoid. try another one on it.
hope this 'splains the relationship between the solenoid & ballast res. good nuff' for you
Mikie
near ottawa Canada
58 m-100 panel & 64 econoline p/u
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