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i am sorry to bother anyone over such a stupid question but I have misplaced my manual and I need to know the torque sequence for the 400m. could someone send it to me or post it here? I would greatly appreciate it!
BTW, a great tip that worked for me when I regasketed the intake on my 400, you screw 4 carb studs (5/16 x 2 1/2") into the middle of the heads on either side of the exhaust crossover port where the smaller (5/16th also) intake bolts go. They stick straight up instead of at an angle so they can help position your intake gaskets. You can even use the studs to help guide the intake as you place it down on the motor, just position the intake so the studs are coming up through the holes in the intake. The intake will slide down the studs and seat in the correct position on the first try, no more sliding the intake around trying to find the bolt holes. Has anyone else tried this besides me?
i was planning on replacing the 2 bad lifters and since the lobes look fine and they have comparable lift to the non damaged ones, I could just replace the lifters bring the engine the rpm's up to what they need to be for a break in and stick a large magnet on the oil pan to help collect and metal that might be inside the engine and then change the oil after 20 minutes or so of run time.
A picture is worth a thousand words. You may be ok but is it worth the risk of messing the rest of the engine up.
We just happen to have a donor 400 that was a fresh build this year. When it was started it had one lifter that went bad. It was worn just a bit. The cam was worn as pictured. Sorry the owner didn’t keep the lifters so I couldn’t get pics of those.. Bad Cam Pic
The owner of this new built 400 put in a new cam, lifters & replaced the bad rocker arms that caused the initial failure. Approx. 150 miles later #1 rod started to knock.
I have heard the improper installation of a cam bearing (or spinning one) can cause oil starvation, but I don' know if it on the 400 or what - just talk around the table you know.
If that happened, then the crank would certainly be impacted and you'd see damage like we have here.
dustinleavitt2000:
What happened here is that the metal got into the oil from that cam lobe and lifter. The pistons get lubrication from oil splash. Small metal pieces get in between the piston and the wall. Works like sandpaper..
Most oil filters go into bypass if the oil is too thick when the engine is cold so the oil is not filtered during that time. Everything goes down hill from there… once the metal gets the bearings then it’s just a horrific circle as it grinds out more metal and is just a matter of time before the rest is junk….
Your situation may be different. This guy could have saved him self some time and money if he would have stopped after the cam/lifter issue and started over.
Are you sure, I thought the splash system went out in the 50's now they use a directed spray. More to the point I thought that pistons on modern engines get oil lubrication from a small port in the connecting rod that sprays oil when the port mates with the oil gallery in the crank. Except on diesels which have a continual stream of oil to keep the pistons cool and lubed.
Ok, things have changed a bit, but it isn't a splash system for sure
According to my Ford manual describing the oil system:
From the main journals, the oil is routed through cross-drilled passages in the crankshaft to lubricate the connecting rod bearings. Controlled leakage throught the crankshaft main bearings and connecting rod bearings is slung radially outward to cool and lubricate the cylinder walls as well as the entire connecting rod, piston and piston rings assembly.
I apologize for this departure from topic, but wanted to make sure that no missleading information was present.
well upon looking at the lobe it appears to have no visible wear at all, the lifter lost some metal it was about as bad as some of the lifters i took out of the engine before i rebuilt it.
the oil did have a metallic like shimmer in the sun light after the cam break in but I assumed that It was just assembly grease mixed in. now the oil looks good with no metal at all, so I believe that the lifter in question wore down during the break in and the was flushed with the oil.