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So I replaced my rear cab corners, and replaced the metal where the drain is on the underside. I am wondering if I should poke drain holes back in, or leave it be I don't see how water gets in from the inside anyway....
I dunno, maybe from water coming in from the drain holes The drain holes didn't work regardless. I have hard time seeing condensation as a problem especially with interior panels. I live in Sacramento CA, I wouldn't say its particularly humid or dry.
The side vent should help equalize humidity when sitting outside. Don't newer trucks have a vent on the back of the cab between the cab and bed?
I get drain holes in a door since you know the windows will leak some.
Honestly, it probably won't be a problem if you don't do it, since you likely won't be putting it away wet, or driving it in poor conditions that get that mud and gunk up there anyways. But why would you want to even have a chance of it happening? What kind of patch panels did you use? I thought that most of them had the drain hole area marked in the stamping.. If it was a totally smooth panel I could see why you might not want that look, but otherwise you've got an embossed section that already looks like a drain hole, might as well make it functional...
my cab corners don't have an embossed hole unless you are talking about the cab mount bolt access hole. I was mostly talking about the inner panel under the truck. I looked like originally it had a dime sized hole in it I certainly see how rain and muck could get in there.
my cab corners don't have an embossed hole unless you are talking about the cab mount bolt access hole. I was mostly talking about the inner panel under the truck. I looked like originally it had a dime sized hole in it I certainly see how rain and muck could get in there.
That was exactly what I was talking about. I haven't gotten my truck apart that far, I guess I didn't know what I was talking about. But I still vote for keeping it functional.
My 52 F1 has pockets with drain holes on the front and rear door pillars, after cleaning out the dirt buildup I left them open. Stick a scribe in from the outside once in a while just to make sure there not clogged up.
I think the dirt and dust accumulation in those corners plays just as big of a role. "Clean" water doesn't stick around long in a well-ventilated or hot cab, but if you combine that with a half pound of road grime that has collected in there, you have a sponge that can stay wet and eat through the metal for a very long time. If any of you invent a super slim shop vac attachment that can clean those corners, and especially clean that built-in trough below the fuel tank, I'll buy it from you.
Water comes in to the cab in the rear section when window rubber goes bad. There are also avenues of seepage in the cab seams and in the door weatherstripping. As has already been stated, water in and of itself is not so bad...it becomes a problem when it seeps into dust and accumulated muck in the low points of the cab where it cannot easily evaporate. I drill extra drain holes in my cabs just to make sure that NO water sits in these low spots, regardless of the point of entry.
If any of you invent a super slim shop vac attachment that can clean those corners, and especially clean that built-in trough below the fuel tank, I'll buy it from you.
Actually, I've done just that, but was never bright enough to file a patent. I used a plastic cap from an aerosol spray can, cut a small hole in the top and inserted a long piece of 3/8 fuel hose. The cap fit over the end of the shop vac hose, and the fuel line was perfect for sucking up small debris from tight areas, like cab corners. I think I may have just saved you $20. Merry Christmas!
Why not put the hole in then put a rubber plug
in it. Remove the plug periodically to clean and
drain like after spilling a soda. The plug will help
keep dust and road grime from getting in. As well
as help seal the cab. Just makes sense to me.
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