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I want to start making mods to my '89 F-150 but from what i am told i need to convert the stock speed density setup to mass air before making any changes. I have found a conversion kit from Jegs for $700 but that is just too much (that money os for the mods). Is there any way i can make the change with parts from a wrecker or even work around the speed density's limitations?
If you do a "search" on the forum, you'll find NUMEROUS threads about this very subject. There are a few who have done it themselves, and have had great luck with it, there are some that have gone the "$700 kit" route, and there are MANY who have stuck with S/D and have worked around it's modification hatred.
Ok I read all the posts REMOTLEY relevant to my problem and although I do understand a lot more about EFI, mass air, and speed density systems, my original question was only partially answered. Could someone please give my a straight forward answer as to what has to be done to my '89 F-150, 2x4, 302 including the parts that are required to convert to mass air?
Yah... um... that was interesting. I am not new to technical documentation and they do not normaly confuse me, but this one woah!!! So does anyone have a SIMPLE straight forward step by step procedure to converting a SD to a MAF system? Or (yes there is an or), would i be better serviced by forgeting the conversion and just investing in a computer tuner to boost horsepower, shifing times etc. and let the damn thing run stock? Oh and about that stock thing, I don't think I would be able to live with it so it would be nice to have a complet list of what mods I can do with the SD system (yes I know i can do a search but to have them all in one place would be nice).
Buying the kit would be simple, straight forward, and it comes with step by step instructions like the above posters tried to tell you....so why not give it a shot? If the 700 dollar price tag deturs you then there is really no reason to waste you money on mass air in the first place. There is NO other way to get mass air then buying the kit or wiring your own, which requires more know-how then the average backyard mechanic. $700 in high performance parts wont buy you a heck of a lot. Maybe a new exhaust system, air intake, U-pullies, chip. All of these can be done to the stock SD without the slightest problems, although you wont exactly have a race truck when your through. Mass air is only needed for the more extensive mods that require more knowledge, time/money than your average bolt on like mentioned above.
I bought that FMS kit for ~$650. Sure it was expensive as hell but, I do not have the time to build a MAF kit for the truck. Now I have a ported 70mm MAF meter from a '94-95 Mustang on there too...meaning greater flow. MAF also just takes a direct measurement of air flow into the motor instead of educated guesses by various sensors. MAF = better economy in my opinion too.
I did TONS of mods to my truck before going MAF. Shorty headers, high flow cat, cat back, pullies, K&N drop in, cut up stock intake box, and more. You are limited on a SD vehicle by playing with heads, cam, rockers, and well yeah basically the induction part of the internals.
It took me about 1 hour to install the FMS kit, it was super simple. I have wondered it you can take an 98-93 5.0 MAF Mustang engine harness and put that in the truck's engine bay. I would assume most stuff would hook right back up and those harnesses can be picked up for cheap. You'd need the correct 94+ truck intake tubing, MAF meter, and the MAF computer. The one you need is for the AOD. I bet that could be done for ~$450 if that harness will work.
Try this link: http://brembs.net/cars/maf_conversion/
he made his own MAF conversion kit, and loved it. It's not a tough job, if you know how to wire anything. Just follow the wiring schematics of the ~90 mustang, compared to the one of your truck, and it's a cake walk. BUT... you still have to buy the MAF sensor ($75), the new computer ($100), the tubing/piping/ducting for the air intake($125-150 from the delaer). But you could just get the kit, and be happy with it.
Reason I said to do the search, is because there are MANY posts with similar, if not the same, questions as yours. That link I gave you, I got as a result of the search function when using the search criteria "mass air conversion" in the 1987-1996 forum. Pretty straight forward.
Hope it helps
I forgot to ask you...what are you looking to do to your truck that warrants MAF conversion?
Are you just planning to keep a stock internal motor and just some assorted go fast bits like: headers, exhaust, pullies, intake, MSD, bumped timing, FP reg, etc?
Or are you planning a head upgrade like some GT-40 irons and a mild cam?
You do realize that you can build a 392/408 stroker for far less than a non intercooled supercharger and make the same amount of power but over a broader area...
But, I have seen SD blown vehicles that run fine too.
I am going to do a long rod (6.2) 392, AFR-185's 61cc, 1.7 rockers, 218/224 +4* - .525" 114lsa, 3.85" nod iron crank, SpeedPro Forged pistons ~9.7:1, ARP hardware, and some 1.75x3 longtubes.
Should make easy 375rwhp or more and well over 425rwtq...could be more as it is going to have longer rods.
That can be done for less than buying the supercharger kit itself.
Yes the supercharger is not the best option but I have always loved the idea of being able to tell someone I have a supercharger powering my truck (And i know a guy who can get me a brand new one for $600 canadian!).
Is that a complete kit with brackets, hoses/lines, FMU, etc. What type of headunit is it?
If you run a centrifugal one, you are going to be not too fast off the light until the 7psi of hot boost builds around 3500rpms...by then the 392/408 would have wizzed right on by. You will also have to run lower compression 8.5-9:1 to run a blower so you will really be sucking wind down low off boost. This will be similar to my automatic WRX. If you live in a hot climate, that boost will be very little gains over a N/A motor as it will detonate a lot and have timing pulled.
You will have a far greater powerband from idle-6000rpms with more cubes and constant always there power...no waiting for the power. Mild compressions big cubes small block! You can get a real high stall converter (3200rpms) but trade off drivability and less towing capacity.
Now if that blower is a roots/twin screw well hell yeah, that is made for a truck. Full boost by 2000rpms or so.
The guy said that it was a twin screw type because that was to only one he could get wholesale. We are in Saskatchewan and the selection is not that great. But I am thrilled to her that the twin screw will be a good choice even if I didn't have a choice.