Curious on why you chose the single plane victor manifold for this application? Victor is for high RPM (3500 to 8500) and will trade off low rpm port velocity/torque. Definitely jealous of that beastly BBF, nice work!!
Are you planning to run drag radials to hook up that power?

 

Common knowledge says that for a low/mid rpm street engine, a dual plane manifold is the way to go (and for the majority of situations that is absolutely true). Real world testing has shown that for the 460 BBF, that isn't always the case. I was originally going to go with the Weiand Stealth DP manifold, as it was the cheaper option and also has the ports to match the Cobra Jet heads I'm running. In actuality, the Stealth manifold is a little on the sluggish side on low end, but flows really well up top (especially for a DP). The Edelbrock Victor is one of the best all around manifolds out there for the big Ford, particularly for the big inch stroker motors.

Advertised RPM operating ranges are based on stock displacement. When you increase the displacement of that engine, the operating RPM for that manifold decreases. In my case, an increase of 85ci (over 18%) lowers the RPM range significantly and is just right for my application.

I plan on running drag radials, probably a 305. I don't anticipate they will help a whole lot on the street.

 

Is it even possible to lose "low end" with a big block stroker?

 

What do you mean? If anything it would improve it but yes, I guess it could be if the builder has no idea what he's doing or just wants to rev?

 

You've got me there!

That is another reason why running a SP manifold on a big inch stroker works well even on the street. It already makes so much down low that the few ft. lbs. you might give up will not be noticed.

 

Bgoodwin knew what I meant
That monster will want as much air as you can feed it, IMO the single plane is the perfect option for it. Besides that it just looks cool on there too.

 

I think it looks a lot better too, and looks did play into my decision making for most of the engine pieces. I could have saved some coin had I gone for the cheaper options with some items. There were options that would work essentially the same, but would not be as visually appealing. Since the truck will be spending a good amount of time at shows and cruise-ins, I want it to look the part. It may not be a race motor, but it is getting built to mimic that look.

 

Still picking away when I can find time. Got the motor bolted up to the trans and resolved a few interferences there and it is now sitting between the frame rails, ready to start fabbing motor mounts and a trans crossmember. It is a tight squeeze, but overall the big block fits quite nicely. I am using headers designed for a fox body Mustang big block swap, and they actually fit quite well. I don't have the steering column yet, but it appears as though simply extending the shaft coming from the column, a couple of universals and an intermediate shaft will be all that is needed.

Motor mounts are going to utilize poly bushings inside round tube. Does anyone know approximately how much clearance is needed side to side when utilizing this style of mount? One of the header tubes on the passenger side does come fairly close to the frame rail, just want to make sure the motor can't rock and make contact there.

I also got most of the engine plumbing and wiring measured for and planned out so I can finish ordering all of that. The goal is to have as much wiring and plumbing out of sight as possible, and anything that is visible to be neat and organized. I had a set of Ford Racing plug wires which seem to be of good quality, but I didn't like the inconsistency in the lengths. I ended up purchasing a set of universal MSD wires so I can build my own wires at the length of my choosing.

The bottom of the inner fenders need a little trim to clear the CV mounting plate. I picked up a 3 row Champion radiator and it fits great, bolted right up with no issues. Hopefully it cools as good as it looks. Pretty impressed with the quality, given the price.

 

Engine looks great sitting in there. How much clearance does the headers have around the firewall and floor?

 

Headers have a few inches of clearance around the firewall and floor. You can see in on of the pics that almost half of the collector is below the frame. The only real tight spot is between one of the header tubes and the passenger side frame rail. It gets down to approx. 1/2" or so in that one spot.

 

Any updates on the build? That 460 looks great, hope all is going well.

 

No major updates, but I have been trying to pick away at it here and there. I'm getting married next year so saving for that doesn't leave a ton of extra cash. Hoping to squirrel away enough so I can have the machine work done on the block soon and start assembly of that.

I have done some work on the donor cab, welding up the roof seam and started shaving the drip rails. No bondo buggy here.



The brake booster setup more or less figured out. Scored a new AC Delco hydroboost unit for short money and modified the original mount bracket to work with the F100 firewall and column support. Using a universal master cylinder. Still need to cut threads on the pushrod and get an offset end for it. Will post more pics of the setup once I get it finalized.


I pulled the front end apart, cleaned, bead blasted some parts and wire wheeled the rest. Going to shoot some AlumiBlast past and replace all bushings, ball joints, etc. prior to reassembly. Pic was taken prior to any cleanup work.


Picked up a Lokar shifter for the C6. Linkage is a little close to the floor on one side, but some minor clearance work will take care of that.

 

Glad your still at it, congratulations on the upcoming nuptials. Good to see any progress.