no parking lights,tail lights,dash lights
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I am assuming the roof marker lights are factory? If we assume that, I was looking in the diagrams, the roof markers are fed from a splice s215 right after the headlight switch.
There is a tan/white that feeds power from the fuse box to the headlight switch just for the marker lights. We know that is good since your roof markers are working. Coming out of the headlight switch is a brown wire that feeds all the markers in the whole truck.. The first thing this brown wire hits is splice s215, which feeds the marker lights which are working. The brown continues on to the underdash fuse box. In the fuse box it splits out into the trailer tow parking lamp relay, and also splits into two brown wires, one feeding front parking lights in the fenders and grille, and the other brown feeding the rear parking lights.
I do not know where this splice s215 is located, but that would be the place to find. Apparently you are good till you hit that point, and after the splice, power is not making it to the fuse box and the tow relay area. If the front lights are working like projectsho89 was asking, then we know the wire from the splice to the fuse box is good, and where it splits in the fuse box can be a problem or afterward since in the fuse box tow area is where it splits front and rear.
There is a tan/white that feeds power from the fuse box to the headlight switch just for the marker lights. We know that is good since your roof markers are working. Coming out of the headlight switch is a brown wire that feeds all the markers in the whole truck.. The first thing this brown wire hits is splice s215, which feeds the marker lights which are working. The brown continues on to the underdash fuse box. In the fuse box it splits out into the trailer tow parking lamp relay, and also splits into two brown wires, one feeding front parking lights in the fenders and grille, and the other brown feeding the rear parking lights.
I do not know where this splice s215 is located, but that would be the place to find. Apparently you are good till you hit that point, and after the splice, power is not making it to the fuse box and the tow relay area. If the front lights are working like projectsho89 was asking, then we know the wire from the splice to the fuse box is good, and where it splits in the fuse box can be a problem or afterward since in the fuse box tow area is where it splits front and rear.
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From: Virginia
You certainly can, get that voltmeter out and use it. You will need to scope out what they did to the wiring. Can we assume the wiring is original coming out of the underdash fuse box or not? Remember originally you had two brown wires leaving the fuse box, one feeding the front, and the other feeding the rear lights. These fuse box wires are fed from a brown wire going from the headlight switch to the fuse box.
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You certainly can, get that voltmeter out and use it. You will need to scope out what they did to the wiring. Can we assume the wiring is original coming out of the underdash fuse box or not? Remember originally you had two brown wires leaving the fuse box, one feeding the front, and the other feeding the rear lights. These fuse box wires are fed from a brown wire going from the headlight switch to the fuse box.
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Update:
I checked the tan/white wire at the fuse box and it has power. I check the tan/white at the headlight switch and it has power. I checked the brown wire coming out of the headlight switch and it has power. I check the fuse in slot 38 for the trailer tow park lamps and it has power. I checked the taillight socket on the driver side (two black wires and one green wire) and, using the middle black wire as a ground, the green wire has power for the brake lights and turn signal. The other black wire doesn’t have power. I’m assuming the black wire on the end of the plug is for the taillights and since I’m not getting power there, I’m not getting taillights. What’s also confusing me is the fact that I’m not getting power to my front parking lights or my tag lights.
I checked the tan/white wire at the fuse box and it has power. I check the tan/white at the headlight switch and it has power. I checked the brown wire coming out of the headlight switch and it has power. I check the fuse in slot 38 for the trailer tow park lamps and it has power. I checked the taillight socket on the driver side (two black wires and one green wire) and, using the middle black wire as a ground, the green wire has power for the brake lights and turn signal. The other black wire doesn’t have power. I’m assuming the black wire on the end of the plug is for the taillights and since I’m not getting power there, I’m not getting taillights. What’s also confusing me is the fact that I’m not getting power to my front parking lights or my tag lights.
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From: Virginia
Ok, you did good till you got to the fuse box. Fuse 38 has nothing to do with your marker lights. That is the fuse that feeds the trailer marker lights. That is the reason for the relay. They are using the brown wire you followed over to the fuse box to trigger that relay, and then fuse 38 supplies power to the trailer lights through that relay. That keeps the truck marker lights and the trailer marker lights separate, but they come on at the same time.
You got waylaid at the fuse box. Problem is, I have never worked on your actual fuse box, so I don't know where to tell you to look. But keep the darkbrown wire in your head, that is what you are looking for. The brown wire leaves the headlight switch, goes through that splice for the roof lights, and then continues to the fuse box. There is no other splice in this wire, the place where it splits up and goes to the front lights, the trailer relay, and the rear lights is in the fuse box itself.
What you need to do is find more brown wires at the fuse box. You should have that one coming in, and you should have two leaving, one going to the front and the other going to the rear. If you can find these front and rear brown wires, try to check for voltage on them.
Another test you could try; Power up the marker lights, and then pull the trailer relay in and out of the box (if it comes out) and see if it clicks each time you pull it out and put it in with the marker lights on. If it does, you know you are getting power from the headlight switch to the fuse box. The next thing is to find those two brown wires leaving the fuse box and see if they have power.
Something else you could do if you were brave; If you find two other brown wires, and get no power on them, you could take a jumper wire and jump power to these brown wires and see if your lights work. Then you would at least know you have the correct wires.
You got waylaid at the fuse box. Problem is, I have never worked on your actual fuse box, so I don't know where to tell you to look. But keep the darkbrown wire in your head, that is what you are looking for. The brown wire leaves the headlight switch, goes through that splice for the roof lights, and then continues to the fuse box. There is no other splice in this wire, the place where it splits up and goes to the front lights, the trailer relay, and the rear lights is in the fuse box itself.
What you need to do is find more brown wires at the fuse box. You should have that one coming in, and you should have two leaving, one going to the front and the other going to the rear. If you can find these front and rear brown wires, try to check for voltage on them.
Another test you could try; Power up the marker lights, and then pull the trailer relay in and out of the box (if it comes out) and see if it clicks each time you pull it out and put it in with the marker lights on. If it does, you know you are getting power from the headlight switch to the fuse box. The next thing is to find those two brown wires leaving the fuse box and see if they have power.
Something else you could do if you were brave; If you find two other brown wires, and get no power on them, you could take a jumper wire and jump power to these brown wires and see if your lights work. Then you would at least know you have the correct wires.
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Ok, you did good till you got to the fuse box. Fuse 38 has nothing to do with your marker lights. That is the fuse that feeds the trailer marker lights. That is the reason for the relay. They are using the brown wire you followed over to the fuse box to trigger that relay, and then fuse 38 supplies power to the trailer lights through that relay. That keeps the truck marker lights and the trailer marker lights separate, but they come on at the same time.
You got waylaid at the fuse box. Problem is, I have never worked on your actual fuse box, so I don't know where to tell you to look. But keep the darkbrown wire in your head, that is what you are looking for. The brown wire leaves the headlight switch, goes through that splice for the roof lights, and then continues to the fuse box. There is no other splice in this wire, the place where it splits up and goes to the front lights, the trailer relay, and the rear lights is in the fuse box itself.
What you need to do is find more brown wires at the fuse box. You should have that one coming in, and you should have two leaving, one going to the front and the other going to the rear. If you can find these front and rear brown wires, try to check for voltage on them.
Another test you could try; Power up the marker lights, and then pull the trailer relay in and out of the box (if it comes out) and see if it clicks each time you pull it out and put it in with the marker lights on. If it does, you know you are getting power from the headlight switch to the fuse box. The next thing is to find those two brown wires leaving the fuse box and see if they have power.
Something else you could do if you were brave; If you find two other brown wires, and get no power on them, you could take a jumper wire and jump power to these brown wires and see if your lights work. Then you would at least know you have the correct wires.
You got waylaid at the fuse box. Problem is, I have never worked on your actual fuse box, so I don't know where to tell you to look. But keep the darkbrown wire in your head, that is what you are looking for. The brown wire leaves the headlight switch, goes through that splice for the roof lights, and then continues to the fuse box. There is no other splice in this wire, the place where it splits up and goes to the front lights, the trailer relay, and the rear lights is in the fuse box itself.
What you need to do is find more brown wires at the fuse box. You should have that one coming in, and you should have two leaving, one going to the front and the other going to the rear. If you can find these front and rear brown wires, try to check for voltage on them.
Another test you could try; Power up the marker lights, and then pull the trailer relay in and out of the box (if it comes out) and see if it clicks each time you pull it out and put it in with the marker lights on. If it does, you know you are getting power from the headlight switch to the fuse box. The next thing is to find those two brown wires leaving the fuse box and see if they have power.
Something else you could do if you were brave; If you find two other brown wires, and get no power on them, you could take a jumper wire and jump power to these brown wires and see if your lights work. Then you would at least know you have the correct wires.
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Joined: Oct 2018
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Ok, you did good till you got to the fuse box. Fuse 38 has nothing to do with your marker lights. That is the fuse that feeds the trailer marker lights. That is the reason for the relay. They are using the brown wire you followed over to the fuse box to trigger that relay, and then fuse 38 supplies power to the trailer lights through that relay. That keeps the truck marker lights and the trailer marker lights separate, but they come on at the same time.
You got waylaid at the fuse box. Problem is, I have never worked on your actual fuse box, so I don't know where to tell you to look. But keep the darkbrown wire in your head, that is what you are looking for. The brown wire leaves the headlight switch, goes through that splice for the roof lights, and then continues to the fuse box. There is no other splice in this wire, the place where it splits up and goes to the front lights, the trailer relay, and the rear lights is in the fuse box itself.
What you need to do is find more brown wires at the fuse box. You should have that one coming in, and you should have two leaving, one going to the front and the other going to the rear. If you can find these front and rear brown wires, try to check for voltage on them.
Another test you could try; Power up the marker lights, and then pull the trailer relay in and out of the box (if it comes out) and see if it clicks each time you pull it out and put it in with the marker lights on. If it does, you know you are getting power from the headlight switch to the fuse box. The next thing is to find those two brown wires leaving the fuse box and see if they have power.
Something else you could do if you were brave; If you find two other brown wires, and get no power on them, you could take a jumper wire and jump power to these brown wires and see if your lights work. Then you would at least know you have the correct wires.
You got waylaid at the fuse box. Problem is, I have never worked on your actual fuse box, so I don't know where to tell you to look. But keep the darkbrown wire in your head, that is what you are looking for. The brown wire leaves the headlight switch, goes through that splice for the roof lights, and then continues to the fuse box. There is no other splice in this wire, the place where it splits up and goes to the front lights, the trailer relay, and the rear lights is in the fuse box itself.
What you need to do is find more brown wires at the fuse box. You should have that one coming in, and you should have two leaving, one going to the front and the other going to the rear. If you can find these front and rear brown wires, try to check for voltage on them.
Another test you could try; Power up the marker lights, and then pull the trailer relay in and out of the box (if it comes out) and see if it clicks each time you pull it out and put it in with the marker lights on. If it does, you know you are getting power from the headlight switch to the fuse box. The next thing is to find those two brown wires leaving the fuse box and see if they have power.
Something else you could do if you were brave; If you find two other brown wires, and get no power on them, you could take a jumper wire and jump power to these brown wires and see if your lights work. Then you would at least know you have the correct wires.
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Ok, you did good till you got to the fuse box. Fuse 38 has nothing to do with your marker lights. That is the fuse that feeds the trailer marker lights. That is the reason for the relay. They are using the brown wire you followed over to the fuse box to trigger that relay, and then fuse 38 supplies power to the trailer lights through that relay. That keeps the truck marker lights and the trailer marker lights separate, but they come on at the same time.
You got waylaid at the fuse box. Problem is, I have never worked on your actual fuse box, so I don't know where to tell you to look. But keep the darkbrown wire in your head, that is what you are looking for. The brown wire leaves the headlight switch, goes through that splice for the roof lights, and then continues to the fuse box. There is no other splice in this wire, the place where it splits up and goes to the front lights, the trailer relay, and the rear lights is in the fuse box itself.
What you need to do is find more brown wires at the fuse box. You should have that one coming in, and you should have two leaving, one going to the front and the other going to the rear. If you can find these front and rear brown wires, try to check for voltage on them.
Another test you could try; Power up the marker lights, and then pull the trailer relay in and out of the box (if it comes out) and see if it clicks each time you pull it out and put it in with the marker lights on. If it does, you know you are getting power from the headlight switch to the fuse box. The next thing is to find those two brown wires leaving the fuse box and see if they have power.
Something else you could do if you were brave; If you find two other brown wires, and get no power on them, you could take a jumper wire and jump power to these brown wires and see if your lights work. Then you would at least know you have the correct wires.
You got waylaid at the fuse box. Problem is, I have never worked on your actual fuse box, so I don't know where to tell you to look. But keep the darkbrown wire in your head, that is what you are looking for. The brown wire leaves the headlight switch, goes through that splice for the roof lights, and then continues to the fuse box. There is no other splice in this wire, the place where it splits up and goes to the front lights, the trailer relay, and the rear lights is in the fuse box itself.
What you need to do is find more brown wires at the fuse box. You should have that one coming in, and you should have two leaving, one going to the front and the other going to the rear. If you can find these front and rear brown wires, try to check for voltage on them.
Another test you could try; Power up the marker lights, and then pull the trailer relay in and out of the box (if it comes out) and see if it clicks each time you pull it out and put it in with the marker lights on. If it does, you know you are getting power from the headlight switch to the fuse box. The next thing is to find those two brown wires leaving the fuse box and see if they have power.
Something else you could do if you were brave; If you find two other brown wires, and get no power on them, you could take a jumper wire and jump power to these brown wires and see if your lights work. Then you would at least know you have the correct wires.
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The forum wasn’t letting me post so I made a new account and now it’s letting me post lol sorry about that. Anyways, if I could figure out how to post pictures to the forum, I’m sure it would help tremendously.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,846
Likes: 2,681
From: Virginia
Do you have a Flickr picture account on the web? Or some other picture hosting account? What you can do is upload your pictures to that web account, and then you get a link to that picture and put that link in your post.
I have never used it, but in the quick reply box there is a little picture box, I held my mouse over it and it said "image". I clicked on it and it took me right to a spot to upload a photo. Since your account is so new, it may not let you upload a photo that way till you get to a certain post number. Constantly changing your account is not helping that situation.
I have never used it, but in the quick reply box there is a little picture box, I held my mouse over it and it said "image". I clicked on it and it took me right to a spot to upload a photo. Since your account is so new, it may not let you upload a photo that way till you get to a certain post number. Constantly changing your account is not helping that situation.
New User
Joined: Oct 2018
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Ok, you did good till you got to the fuse box. Fuse 38 has nothing to do with your marker lights. That is the fuse that feeds the trailer marker lights. That is the reason for the relay. They are using the brown wire you followed over to the fuse box to trigger that relay, and then fuse 38 supplies power to the trailer lights through that relay. That keeps the truck marker lights and the trailer marker lights separate, but they come on at the same time.
You got waylaid at the fuse box. Problem is, I have never worked on your actual fuse box, so I don't know where to tell you to look. But keep the darkbrown wire in your head, that is what you are looking for. The brown wire leaves the headlight switch, goes through that splice for the roof lights, and then continues to the fuse box. There is no other splice in this wire, the place where it splits up and goes to the front lights, the trailer relay, and the rear lights is in the fuse box itself.
What you need to do is find more brown wires at the fuse box. You should have that one coming in, and you should have two leaving, one going to the front and the other going to the rear. If you can find these front and rear brown wires, try to check for voltage on them.
Another test you could try; Power up the marker lights, and then pull the trailer relay in and out of the box (if it comes out) and see if it clicks each time you pull it out and put it in with the marker lights on. If it does, you know you are getting power from the headlight switch to the fuse box. The next thing is to find those two brown wires leaving the fuse box and see if they have power.
Something else you could do if you were brave; If you find two other brown wires, and get no power on them, you could take a jumper wire and jump power to these brown wires and see if your lights work. Then you would at least know you have the correct wires.
You got waylaid at the fuse box. Problem is, I have never worked on your actual fuse box, so I don't know where to tell you to look. But keep the darkbrown wire in your head, that is what you are looking for. The brown wire leaves the headlight switch, goes through that splice for the roof lights, and then continues to the fuse box. There is no other splice in this wire, the place where it splits up and goes to the front lights, the trailer relay, and the rear lights is in the fuse box itself.
What you need to do is find more brown wires at the fuse box. You should have that one coming in, and you should have two leaving, one going to the front and the other going to the rear. If you can find these front and rear brown wires, try to check for voltage on them.
Another test you could try; Power up the marker lights, and then pull the trailer relay in and out of the box (if it comes out) and see if it clicks each time you pull it out and put it in with the marker lights on. If it does, you know you are getting power from the headlight switch to the fuse box. The next thing is to find those two brown wires leaving the fuse box and see if they have power.
Something else you could do if you were brave; If you find two other brown wires, and get no power on them, you could take a jumper wire and jump power to these brown wires and see if your lights work. Then you would at least know you have the correct wires.
https://imgur.com/gallery/NkUGLrd
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From: Virginia
That worked. I see the tan/white and I think I might see the brown behind some of the other wires. But from your tests, you have voltage everywhere near the headlight switch correct? We need to get to the fuse box under the left part of the dash.
