My 95 Bronco which I just bought, is stalling after high-speed (hi rev?) driving. If I go out on the highway or cruise through town, and come to a stop, the engine revs go down, and pretty soon it stalls. When I restart it, it starts with a bit of hesitation, but starts fine, but it smells pretty stinky. Not like eggs, but stinky.

I just bought this thing, it has (supposedly) 130K on it, and the engine looks to be in decent shape. It idles pretty darned low, and smooth, and without too many misses. It doesn't blow white or black smoke, and otherwise seems to be in decent shape, motor wise.

I've been told before that stalling after high speed driving is an emissions thing, but if the emissions thing wasn't working, it wouldn't be stalling in the first place, right? I thought it works something like this: after coming to a stop, something kicks in place that gives the engine more oxygen.

anyhow, any advice would be good at this point. I don't know which emissions things to look at or where they are. anybody have an emissions diagram?

For that matter, is this thing ODB1?

 

More Info: When I come to a stop, if I put the engine into neutral, the revs stay at about 1000 RPM for a few seconds (perhaps 4?) and then briefly drop down to ~700, then back up to normal 750 RPMS. If I don't put it into neutral before I come to a stop, the engine will stall.

this sounds to me like the transmission, when the car is in Drive, is putting such a high load on the idling engine, it's stalling it out. Somebody mentioned "disconnecting the transmission control solenoid" or something. Can anybody elaborate on that?

any ideas?

 

Might want to do plugs and wires run some injector cleaner. My 93 would stall at stop signs every one in a while.

 

I'm not sure about this, but I'm pretty sure it's because the tranny is dragging the engine down, not from the engine itself not being tuned or performing right. I'll do the plugs/wires, but I'm pretty sure since the failure doesn't happen when it's in neutral, it's because of the tranny.

 

Check engine light on?

I'd invest in a code reader they are very cheap.

I think i paid $40 for mine.

 

Yup, get fault Codes ASAP! Chasing the problem will just cost you $$$ every time you "guess" and its not the actual problem. And the CEL (Check Engine Light) does not need to be on for there to be Codes present.

 

My bronc would die at a red light sometimes after a freeway drive and idled rough every once in a while. Flucuated from 1,000-700.

Check out the thread "found the holy grail....idle surge problem.

I fixed mine by cleaning the mass air flow control connectors. I bought a idle air control gasket for $1.48 and a can of air control cleaner. Removed idle air control. cleaned it up, put new gasket on and reinstalled. Runs like new.

Be sure to check all you vacuum lines. I found one of mine off and just hanging in the engine. This was probably the main issue but the idle air control valve cleaning smoothed everything out.

This is easy to do, you tube it, and will cost about $8.00