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Brake Upgrade?

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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 09:57 AM
  #16  
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Without going into to too much detail that could be trade infringing, the carbon content is pretty much the same as the premium rotor but not exactly. Now the standard rotor is a car lot special. I run Centric premiums on pretty much everything. The reason they make the line is because of internet forums and message boards, same with the cryo. Enough to be legally different. Someone came out with a buzzword, it made some money, so now they make it to satisfy the public desires. One of those things "It's more expensive, so it has to be better", ya know?

+1 on the transfer layers, I have used many a 3M cookie and re bedding to fix a "warpage" issue. Another thing that will get you is the ecoat of some of these special rotors, it will completely wreck a set of pads.

I was just recently given some pads from tier1 supplier to try out on my Ex and report back to them. Once the results are in I'll bring that back to the forums.

A lot of the "drilled" rotors are just that, just drilled on a jig and then machined. More expensive manufacturers actually cast the holes into the raw casting and then are machined and chamfered to resist the cracking. Of course those rotors usually will run you in excess of 200 a piece, are American or even European made and will not be sold by tire rack, rock auto, amazon, fleabay.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 12:40 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by WE3ZS
I'd start with a good thorough check of the trailer's brake system because it isn't working properly or you don't have the brake controller setup correctly. I pull our 12k lbs travel trailer all over the East with the stock brakes and have never had an overheating issue or brake issues of any kind. With the trailer brakes setup correctly the rig should stop nearly as well as it does when running solo, I've had trailers that actually improved my braking performance when hitched to them!
My trailer brakes are good, and the brake controller works well. I've tested it thoroughly. The climb up/down to Death Valley is beyond nasty. 5,000 feet up and down twice, full of nothing but tight switchbacks. It's the worst road I've ever had he pleasure of driving. And I'm no novice.

The stock brakes did well, but the 1 rotor has now warped. If I'm gonna replace it, I'll replace it with a good upgrade.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 04:43 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Immortal_Ben
I expect bad dust, as their own site rates them as very dusty.

Generally, what is referred to as warping is actually a buildup of pad material on the rotors. This is due to heating up the pads and rotors pretty hot, then leaving the brakes fully depressed while everything is still hot. Like when descending a long steep grade to a stop light, and holding the brakes until it turns green. This is something I learned many years ago, and ever since, I have not had issues with "warped" rotors. However, I will keep an eye out and won't hesitate to rip off a bad product and return it.
Guys, I run a set of the drilled slotted ebc including yellow stuff front an rear since 13months
Ive done a complete set of Ssbraided lines, too.
Its an extreme increase of brake power....believe me and the dust is way less than OEM.
Im located in Germany and I drive this tank hard and sometimes aggressive, which means hard brakings. I drove 6500mls and you cant even feel a groove in the front rotors. Awesome pads and awesone rotors......
You cant be wrong if you get not copied china stuff.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 05:09 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by mecdac
Upgrade to braided stainless lines, Russell 696490.
Here's the link to them on
Amazon.com Amazon.com
 
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 05:20 PM
  #20  
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Drilled and slotted rotors actually remove material from what is essentially a heat sink. You want as much material as possible so it can absorb as much heat as possible before causing pad fade. The slots and holes for race cars are not appropriate for street cars outside static displays at car shows.
 
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