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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 11:18 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
mines a L99...OTW here. OP, Shake-N-Bake had a tthread about a year ago where he removed the radiator to have it cleaned out. He couldn't believe how caked it was, between fins...has before/after pics. Clearly, you can see, right thru the darn thing, after the fact....something to think about
Interesting. Is OTW part of Towing Package then?
I'm getting schooled here.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 11:20 AM
  #17  
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not sure, nor am i sure if having a zf6 made a difference, for them years.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 11:32 AM
  #18  
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Check the operation of the fluid cooler bypass valve. If it's failing it will direct hot fluid back into the trans. Or the bypass is doing it's job correctly due to a partially clogged trans cooler. Read up on Mark K.'s trans fluid flush and cooler flow rate instruction.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 12:30 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by M-S-G
....
I would also love to know what is the next step after getting the 6.0 cooler if you LACK the OTW cooler like the OP and me do.
You can replace your radiator with the integrated cooler type.

Personally I'd be fine with just the 6.0 cooler and monitor my temps when backing up or driving at very slow speed (which isn't that often for me). If you find that your temps get higher than you'd like then purchase a new radiator and plumb in the lines and you should be good.

I've been running just the air cooler on my '99 since day one. I upgraded the air cooler when I upgraded my trans around 144k miles and have been good ever since. Odometer is just over 340k now. My heaviest trailer (5th wheel) was around 16k lbs most days and my trans fluid temps have been well managed at all times. I would keep an eye on the temp gauge when backing up but it never got above 190 degrees so I didn't worry too much about it.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 12:35 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by M-S-G
Interesting. Is OTW part of Towing Package then?
I'm getting schooled here.
Possibly. I'd be curious to find out myself. My 99.5 does not have the OTW in the radiator but it does have the receiver hitch.....but it does NOT have the 7 pin trailer plug out back so I am not sure if it has the "Towing Package" as described by Ford. No helper spring either....

My wife's truck has all items described above. 2000 model year, F250, helper spring, OTW cooler, 7 Pin trailer plug etc....
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:13 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by M-S-G
Interesting. Is OTW part of Towing Package then?
I'm getting schooled here.
I don't think so. My buddies 01 dually has the OTW cooler but no tow package. No helper leafs on the rear which I thought was strange on a dually.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:51 PM
  #22  
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All 1999 and the first half of 2000 Superduty trucks left the factory with only an air to oil cooler. Many trucks later had the radiator replaced with one that had a cooler. There was a TSB that addressed overheating transmissions, and the fix was to add a radiator cooler. It worked.

Mid year 2000 Ford reintroduced the radiator cooler along with the air to oil cooler.

No 4R100 ever had a thermostat from the factory. There is NOTHING that bypasses the coolers until the trans warms up. That's not how it works no matter how many times you read that on the 'net. It's simply not true.

The radiator cooler is a very effective cooler. It is especially effective at low speed, high load conditions. One example of where the radiator cooler would be extremely effective would be snow plowing.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 04:12 PM
  #23  
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Here's the the instruction on the 4R100 fluid flush. Within it you will see how to check if your (pressure activated) trans cooler bypass valve is activating for any reason.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/changing-atf-fluid-in-a-e4od-and-4r100-transmission/

Start there. If the bypass is activating it's because the check valve in the bypass line is faulty (which is common) or your trans cooling system is clogged. Both scenarios will cause your transmission to run hot. If the bypass is fine move on to the next possible culprit.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 04:46 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mototrig
Here's the the instruction on the 4R100 fluid flush. Within it you will see how to check if your (pressure activated) trans cooler bypass valve is activating for any reason.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...-transmission/

Start there. If the bypass is activating it's because the check valve in the bypass line is faulty (which is common) or your trans cooling system is clogged. Both scenarios will cause your transmission to run hot. If the bypass is fine move on to the next possible culprit.
Sorry the website I provided doesn't show the bypass operation. I couldn't find the right post so I'll just ad lib. At step 5a there should be fluid coming out of the return line ONLY. If fluid is coming out of the return line connection mounted to the banjo fitting on the transmission that is your indication that the bypass is activating.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 04:47 PM
  #25  
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Well, there goes my hope of finding out if I have one without getting dirty.
Is there a thread somewhere with pictures of both rads?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 07:34 AM
  #26  
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Sooooo....now that we've recovered from the stinky dog caca saga, what's your plan for the trans?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 11:11 AM
  #27  
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Maybe I missed it, have you mentioned if your torque converter is in lockup while plowing? Can you control TC lock with trans command? What speed do you normally plow at? An unlocked TC under load will produce massive trans heat over time.

Your '99 may be controlled differently, but on my '02 the TC lockup solenoid is controlled according to transmission speed (along with several other factors) and not speedometer speed. Assuming your '99 is controlled the same way, running 35's with stock gearing will bump TC lock to a higher GPS vehicle speed even with a recalibrated speedometer.

Assuming you are plowing under the speed of TC lock and trans command won't get the job done, consider a manual TC lock switch.

One last thing is the manual lock should only be used in 2nd gear or higher. From my research on the 4R100 there is not enough pump pressure to manually lock the converter in 1st gear. Hope my rambling help ya a little.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 03:42 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mototrig
Your '99 may be controlled differently, but on my '02 the TC lockup solenoid is controlled according to transmission speed (along with several other factors) and not speedometer speed. Assuming your '99 is controlled the same way, running 35's with stock gearing will bump TC lock to a higher GPS vehicle speed even with a recalibrated speedometer.
The lockup is controlled by rear axle rotational speed on ALL years of the 4R100.

Originally Posted by mototrig
One last thing is the manual lock should only be used in 2nd gear or higher. From my research on the 4R100 there is not enough pump pressure to manually lock the converter in 1st gear.
Mine shows a different result. You can lock the converter in ANY gear as long as the engine RPM is greater than 1300 RPM. Below that the pump doesn't have enough output to maintain lockup.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 04:18 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
The lockup is controlled by rear axle rotational speed on ALL years of the 4R100.

Mine shows a different result. You can lock the converter in ANY gear as long as the engine RPM is greater than 1300 RPM. Below that the pump doesn't have enough output to maintain lockup.
Mark I remember talking with you about the TC lock up and was under the impression that the TSS and the VSS sensors in the trans are what controlled lock up speed. I'm obviously not arguing with you, just want to find out why I misunderstood.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 04:23 PM
  #30  
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Double post, stupid phone haha.
 
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