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Hi guys,
Got a lot of good info about changing the rear main seals on here.
I'm working on a 77 f250 4x4 with a 400.
I got what was left of the old rope style seals out. The parts store sold me the rubber one. I can't find a picture that is close enough to show which way it goes. It didn't come with instructions or the little plastic tool I've seen on some videos. The pictures in the manual show where to put the RTV but is not very clear on which way. I read some people saying the big lip goes toward the front of the motor. Not really sure which is the big one. Looks like a curved side and a flat side. I think #2 makes more sense but not sure. (Bearing cap is shown in pictures with the left side facing rear of motor.)
#1 curved part of seal facing front of motor<br/>
#2 curved part of seal facing rear of motor
Also, in the middle of the bearing cap there is a spike to hold the rope seal in and from what I've read on here it will tear the rubber ones up. How do I remove this spike and is there one in the top also?
Thanks,
Kenny
The lip goes toward the front of the engine. Never had a problem with the "spike" - helps hold the seal....and it's a good idea (if you can) to leave a schosh of play between the seal and block. Like you have in the picture, but remember what side is longer on both berrins.
Thanks for the reply,
I'm still a little lost here on what side of the seal has a "lip". I would think that means the #2 picture is right and #1 is wrong.
. Yes, #2 is correct... the lip is that ridge sticking up the most... oil the crank where it will rub against the seal lip.... offset the joints in the seal slightly from the joints between the seal holder halves (like you have it pictured)...
. You're replacing that damaged main bearing, correct? How did that happen?
Thank you very much,
To be honest this is the first time I've ever tried to replace a bearing seal. It wasn't knocking but it was leaking pretty bad out of the back of the oil pan against the transmission, some places on each side of the pan, and the dip stick. There was only half of an upper seal in there.
Originally Posted by BuzzLOL
. You're replacing that damaged main bearing, correct? How did that happen?
That doesn't sound good. Can you please explain how it's damaged? I really am a little out of my comfort zone here.
Thanks again.
. There's a chip out of the bearing surface near the top of the picture... prolly wouldn't hurt much, since it's not where there is a lot of running pressure on the bearing... but still, bearings don't cost much...
. Looks like it was pried on or driven on with a screwdriver or something... I've never seen damage like that before...
. Also, the bearing is copper colored... not sure if those should be silver/grey babbit... and worn down to copper...
Oh man I saw that and thought it was machined like that. It wouldn't surprise me if whoever worked on it before did jam something up in there to get it out. It came out really easy for me. After I loosened the bearing cap bolts all I had to do was wiggle it back and forth a little and it fell.
I read a couple posts about the copper showing, (there's a really good one from 2012 that had a link to common bearing failures and what they look like) thanks for the heads up! There was a lot of oil baked into the motor. I saw that can be a problem for them wearing out quicker than normal.
This is a farm truck that has been "severely redneck engineered" and not by me. Don't get me wrong you do what you can here sometimes but there's still a right way and an I can't believe they did it that way. I have been trying to unscrew all the screw ups but it originally was a carb rebuild that turned into a bit more. I'll start a new post to show some of the suspension "mods".
Thanks again.
Got everything put back together a few nights ago. No leaks or knocks so fingers crossed here but the ground is looking a lot less black under its new parking spot about 4 feet to the right of where it was.
. There's a chip out of the bearing surface near the top of the picture... prolly wouldn't hurt much, since it's not where there is a lot of running pressure on the bearing... but still, bearings don't cost much...
. Looks like it was pried on or driven on with a screwdriver or something... I've never seen damage like that before...
. Also, the bearing is copper colored... not sure if those should be silver/grey babbit... and worn down to copper...
That's not a chip that is used to line up the bearing in its bore and to keep it from spinning in the block
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