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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 04:33 PM
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Battery Cable size

Anyone know the gauge of the factory battery cables on the Ex's? I'm trying to eliminate all possibilities with my constant need to replace batteries and alternator every 6 months or so. Thanks. I was going to upgrade to a 2/0 or 1/0 marine grade tinned cable since I can get all marine products at cost and the tinned wire resists the corrosion the best.

Thanks in advance
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 08:01 PM
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00.... but seriously I have no clue. Bumping this back up to the top so someone can answer it
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 08:40 PM
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My nephew had a similar problem with his 6.0 F250. Turns out some bonehead PO or mechanic had tapped into a fuel injector power wire to get power to something else.

Wiring was fixed and there have been no dead batteries or dead alternators since.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 09:10 PM
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Oh yeah, tapping into a fuel wire? Great freaking idea! Might as well tap into some of these unused airbag wires too while we're at it!
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 7.3Excursion4x4
Anyone know the gauge of the factory battery cables on the Ex's? I'm trying to eliminate all possibilities with my constant need to replace batteries and alternator every 6 months or so. Thanks. I was going to upgrade to a 2/0 or 1/0 marine grade tinned cable since I can get all marine products at cost and the tinned wire resists the corrosion the best.

Thanks in advance
Offhand, I don't know the exact AWG of OEM Ford cables.
That said, w/ the amp draw of your 7.3s starter likely the heaviest load, you will be fine w/ 1/0 (up to 15' total Pos & Neg run).
Make sure you shrinkwrap, use proper crimping tool & use correct lugs on all connections.
Based on your symptoms, I would be replacing the alt output wiring as well.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Immortal_Ben
My nephew had a similar problem with his 6.0 F250. Turns out some bonehead PO or mechanic had tapped into a fuel injector power wire to get power to something else. Wiring was fixed and there have been no dead batteries or dead alternators since.

Was it actual power or signal to a remote start
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by superdave02f552
Was it actual power or signal to a remote start
I do not know, but it sure screwed stuff up.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 04:43 AM
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I have that info. Which cables in particular do you want to know?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 08:42 AM
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Check and see if you still a blanket around your batteries. This is what was killing batteries on my '01 Excursion every 2 years every fall. Since removing them, the only problem I had was the Texas heat drying them out. That's since been remedied by keeping them topped off with distilled water.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 09:58 AM
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I'm going to replace all of them. I would appreciate the help if you could.

Thanks

Originally Posted by housedad
I have that info. Which cables in particular do you want to know?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 10:08 AM
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In case helpful.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ry-cables.html
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 7.3Excursion4x4
I'm going to replace all of them. I would appreciate the help if you could.

Thanks
I'll try to have it up later tonight if I don't pass out. I started working on cars at 7:30 am and I'm only taking a break right now. I have to finish the third car today so my brother can have it to get to work tomorrow.

It sucks getting older. Too many pains an creaks.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 09:30 PM
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I have a 2000 with a V10. Ours were 4 gauge. The ground cable is stripped in the center and has a tab that is bolted to the frame. When I made new ones I ran a cable all the way to the engine and then made another cable for between the engine and frame. I used 1 gauge I think. There are pictures in the thread I did of installing our Banks headers. Sorry I don't know how to link to it. Carquest made the cables for me.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 09:34 PM
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 09:36 PM
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