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I am thinking about changing the Gear Ratio in my 2014 Platinum F350.
History: I traded in my 2011 F350 DRW with 17" wheels and 3:73 gears to get my 2014 F350 SRW 20" Wheels with the 3.55 gears. I pull a 15,000 boat and trailer. The Drw pulled the boat and trailer with no issues. I sold my Northern Lite Truck Camper. I thought I didn't need the Drw any more. First time I hooked up to the boat I felt the difference in between the trucks in the acceleration and fuel economy. Old truck would get 11.5 MPG new truck gets barely 9 MPG going down hill with a tailwind. Over all the new truck is a little slower off the line but when hooked up to the boat it is a dog with the 20" tires.
So the question to you all is; Has anyone did a gear change to 4.10? Swapping to this ratio with 20" tires will produce the similar RPM's and possible improve the fuel economy. I get around 18 empty now on trips empty. Around 16 commuting 25 miles to work.
Cost should be around $2500. I have also thought about just going out and getting another DRW Truck. Cool for me but the SWMBO will come unglued if I did. I will take a bath on the trade in as well. I did price check a new one last night at around $70,000. No one in the Seattle, WA area stocks DRWs on the lot. SOB!
Goatram,
If you check Bickford Ford up North of you they do have a couple of DRW F350 and F450 and give their no hagle price on their website.
The gear change may help with the power you want, but may not get you the fuel milage you are looking for, or the stability of the DRW.
Best of luck with your decision.
Pat
Pat's right... And with the gear change, you'll need to pay the dealer to reprogram the speedo cluster and calibrate to your new gears or buy a programmer that will do it for you.
My 2015 DRW with 17.5k behind it gets about the same mileage as your truck when towing. I have 3.73 gears and the truck moves the load down the road and up hill without breaking a sweat. And stability in crosswinds is phenomenal..
Pat I check with Bickford when I bought this truck. The old man with 20+ years must of thought I was not serious. He ran his numbers and Said we were $18,500 apart and he would not move on his price. His price was above the internet price plus he low balled the trade in Value.
Randy does not the Speed sensors on the axles provide the speed instead of the transmission? Your gettin 9 MPG towing with your 2015. A side benefit is the Exhaust brake and new truck smell.
I stand corrected about the local dealers stocking DRW. I have found a few just now. Marysville Ford does not though. They have had the best E Price for the area.
Still would like to hear if anyone has made the swap. I am about a month away from making the decision. A few things need to go my way for either scenario to happen.
I wouldn't take that huge trade loss just to get the gearing you want. Especially since you don't need a DRW truck. Do the gear swap and be done with it.You'll get the performance you want without wasting a ton of money on something you don't need. And, forget all about mileage you're loosing. If you loose 15-20k on trade, that will cost you a lot more than a few mpg's. You can buy a lot of diesel with that money... especially at today's prices...
Goat ram, you won't like my opinion but I have to lay it out.
With respect, I honestly think you should just adjust your level of expectations of your current truck. Towing a 15k trailer is no picnic, it's heavy, and nothing to joke about. That's very heavy. Your current truck will handle this task all day every day, just a little slower than you'd like and a little more fuel than you'd like. That's just the way it is.
Considering the amount of money you are willing to commit to this issue, maybe the best thing would be to get some 18" wheels? 17" wheels? With the right tires you're changing the final drive ratio in your favor.
Again, with respect, I think you should just come to terms with the status quo.
Unless, you just want a new truck. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that and there's no need to justify that to anyone.
I do know that Bickford will low ball trades, I had forgotten about that since I normally sell my trucks prior to the new one getting to the dealer.....
I went with 18" wheel with my new F350 just for towing, didn't want 20" wheels for towing and just in case, or better yet when I need to chain up in the Mtns. I have 3.55 gears and the 18" tires and am very happy with it, but I am not towing 15K, more like 10K with allot of stuff in the truck bed.
Sailor Roy just moved up from a F350 CCLB to a F350 DRW CCLB with 3.73 and 17" wheels. His 5th wheel was just over the legal limits for his SRW. He lives in Montana, so he has the simular needs gear wise.
It might be cheaper to buy a set of take off 18" wheel/tires and try that prior to the gear changes.
Best of luck with your decision, I hope you find the right combo to meet your needs and expectations.
Pat
Is that price $2500 for both diffs, or $2500 per diff? Just curious.
That's Both done with new bearings and seals. I have the lift and press in my shop. "Mike Stryker20" is a Good Mech with the experience to get them set up right.
Randy I have thought about the Tire Swap. About a new DRW and the rush of getting it. Down side of all three scenarios is the Money.
This is one reason, for example, why camper package won't let you have 20" wheel (34 tall tire). It assume you will have a heavy load and mandates highest numerical gear ratio with smallest tire to get overall lowest final drive.
I get 8mpg towing only 6k boat with 35.5" tires/3.55. Regearing would defiantly help. I have changed gears in several vehicles and can be night and day difference, and is usually way cheaper than adding power.
This may be a little off your post, but here goes. I have a 2011 DRW chassis cab with a 4.10 rearend and 17" tires. Yes, I know this is a different engine than you guys with the higher hp engines. However there aren't too many here with a 4.10. Anyhow, if I can furnish any info that could benefit you such as speed/rpm/mileage let me know.
Hope you can find the answers you need and good luck with the decision.
This is one reason, for example, why camper package won't let you have 20" wheel (34 tall tire). It assume you will have a heavy load and mandates highest numerical gear ratio with smallest tire to get overall lowest final drive.
I get 8mpg towing only 6k boat with 35.5" tires/3.55. Regearing would defiantly help. I have changed gears in several vehicles and can be night and day difference, and is usually way cheaper than adding power.
Actually, it's the lower rating of the 20" rims (the tires have a higher rating) that exclude them from the camper package. They don't want that much weight with that high center of gravity with exerting side force on the 20" rims when a camper is in the bed. Also, I upgraded from the standard 18" wheels to some 20" platinum takeoffs and noticed no difference at all towing 16k all this past summer so I don't think the wheel/tire swap thing is going to make the op happy.
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