Tach not working
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That's a stock turbo off a superduty. I just picked up a 38r. The big pipes go to the intercooler. The small lines are fuel. Electric fuel and filters are under the truck. I have yet to drive it. Still putting some pieces together. I took the driver seat out for a little spritzing up. No mor pillows for me:P. Plus I know if I don't do it before I'm done the truck it'll never get done.
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went to ford and got a new CPS. needless to say, I still have no tach. wires are all connected nicely...im ready to start pulling out some of my guns and shooting this truck. im actually really tired of it and must might sell the POS. this is too much.
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That's a stock turbo off a superduty. I just picked up a 38r. The big pipes go to the intercooler. The small lines are fuel. Electric fuel and filters are under the truck. I have yet to drive it. Still putting some pieces together. I took the driver seat out for a little spritzing up. No mor pillows for me:P. Plus I know if I don't do it before I'm done the truck it'll never get done.
does the intercooler really make that much of a difference?
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probably gonna help with the injectors I put in. Good luck with the frustrations. It's rough when things don't work but when it all falls into place there is usually a big smile afterwords
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I know, trust me! this whole truck has been a nightmare though. I bought it in 9/2011 with 319k miles. it now has 330,972.2. in my 11k miles of limited driving, this truck has probably cost me 15k in repairs. needed new tires and rims right from the start. replace everything in the fuel system except the LPOP. had to rebuild the front end. then I thought I blew a head gasket but led to do the engine swap.
I got to do a couple things for fun, if you will. put on the nerf bars so my wife and kids could get in it without pulling on the doors and did a rhino liner in the bed.
I was going to open up the harness today but got distracted by washing waxing my ford flex. speaking of that, now I did that to my car, it will be raining!
this current problem however, has to be electrical or electronic. I was thinking last night in bed about this issue. after dropping in this engine, I sprung a water leak through the thermostat tube housing. I pulled on the wires a bit so I could get to the bolts...I really hope I broke the wire or maybe the pigtail broke...
Last edited by drpaul311; Dec 16, 2014 at 02:27 AM. Reason: wanted to add me info
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so I found a broken wire and then rewired it. still nothing. now my friggin oil pressure gauge quit working. what a POS this truck is.
two questions: the sending unit above the CPS, is that the oil sending unit? also, can we buy a new wiring harness for these trucks?
Ok, I lied, I have a third question. I bought this engine - a short block. the cam and lifters and the timing gears were installed. is there something that could be missing from inside the engine thereby causing the CPS to not read or sense like its supposed to?
Last edited by drpaul311; Dec 16, 2014 at 01:53 PM. Reason: spelling errors
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I don't think so. If any one of those peices are missing it won't run. The oil pressure switch is on top of the motor. I think the sensor your talking about is just a water temp switch for the dummy light. What was the broken wire for?
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From: Exton, PA
Hi JP. I was reading through your other thread about the rebuild of your engine. Quite interesting and a wealth of information. I am curious however of a couple things, not that it will make any difference to my engine at this juncture, how much did you pay for your head studs. I wanted to go that route but they were $2000 for the cheapest set I found. Also, are there aftermarket cams we can put in these engines - you know, something like an RV cam if you will? I looked and looked but couldn't find one.
Doing my engine, I almost felt like an idiot. What began my engine swap process was I thought blew a head gasket and having oil blow up the dipstick tube. It was mess! I yanked the heads after running a compression check. Three cylinders on the passenger side was around 265 psi, which is quite low and the one cylinder with the hole in the piston, obviously had no compression. Got my heads done and put them back on. Still the same problem, but my truck ran a little better at times; it was as if was missing on occasion, but still got up and moved. Ran another compression check, and now had lower compression in the three cylinders and still nothing in the other.
Long story short, when I pulled the heads the first time, I saw the cracks in all four pistons, but what was strange, those cracks were in the same spots on all four pistons. So I just dismissed them as casting seams. And the hole, you actually couldn't see it as it was in the valve recess spot on the piston.
I completely assembled my engine on the stand, pulled off my front clip and dropped it in. Timing, took just over an hour to get it in. So, I am under my truck pulling the torque converter forward to put the nuts on the studs. I was getting irritated because that converter kept stopping. The studs would come just up to the flex plate and that was it. Finally, I decided it had to be something retarded and therefore googled a picture of a flex plate installed. I had that dumb thing on backwards. Yanked the engine again, turned it around, bolted the tranny back up inside an hour.
This truck has been a nightmare. Darin answered several of my original posts on this truck in 2012 when I started working on it. The entire engine is new. New computer, FICM, all the sensors, and a whole lot of headaches along the way too! I bought this truck at 319k miles thinking it would drive a long while before I had to do anything major on it. My truck now has 330,972.2 and I have pumped tremendous amount of money in it. I should have bought a new truck for what I now have in this one!
I love the color of your engine however. My block came back from the machine shop black so I just left it that way. For good reason however, my truck is red and black and the only chrome on it is the front bumper. So I decided to keep it that way!
As for the oil dipstick adapter, if you have a design and you are selling them, I would be greatly interested. Before I yanked that engine, I had to make that repair. We were coming home from a trip with my toy hauler. We stopped for something and I noticed this ridiculous puddle of oil under my truck. From the one stop, we zipped over the to auto parts store and left the truck running to check to see if that oil was actually mine from the previous parking lot. OMG, the amount of oil coming out was crazy and I still had another 40 miles to get home. SO I bought many gallons of oil and took a side mountain road home so I could keep stopping to add oil! I cant remember how much oil I used getting home but it was a lot! In effect, I bought the tools to hold that adapter. It took about an hour to change the o-ring and put a gasket on the outside. The hardest part was getting the o-ring to fit into the groove. It never leaked again though.
Doing my engine, I almost felt like an idiot. What began my engine swap process was I thought blew a head gasket and having oil blow up the dipstick tube. It was mess! I yanked the heads after running a compression check. Three cylinders on the passenger side was around 265 psi, which is quite low and the one cylinder with the hole in the piston, obviously had no compression. Got my heads done and put them back on. Still the same problem, but my truck ran a little better at times; it was as if was missing on occasion, but still got up and moved. Ran another compression check, and now had lower compression in the three cylinders and still nothing in the other.
Long story short, when I pulled the heads the first time, I saw the cracks in all four pistons, but what was strange, those cracks were in the same spots on all four pistons. So I just dismissed them as casting seams. And the hole, you actually couldn't see it as it was in the valve recess spot on the piston.
I completely assembled my engine on the stand, pulled off my front clip and dropped it in. Timing, took just over an hour to get it in. So, I am under my truck pulling the torque converter forward to put the nuts on the studs. I was getting irritated because that converter kept stopping. The studs would come just up to the flex plate and that was it. Finally, I decided it had to be something retarded and therefore googled a picture of a flex plate installed. I had that dumb thing on backwards. Yanked the engine again, turned it around, bolted the tranny back up inside an hour.
This truck has been a nightmare. Darin answered several of my original posts on this truck in 2012 when I started working on it. The entire engine is new. New computer, FICM, all the sensors, and a whole lot of headaches along the way too! I bought this truck at 319k miles thinking it would drive a long while before I had to do anything major on it. My truck now has 330,972.2 and I have pumped tremendous amount of money in it. I should have bought a new truck for what I now have in this one!
I love the color of your engine however. My block came back from the machine shop black so I just left it that way. For good reason however, my truck is red and black and the only chrome on it is the front bumper. So I decided to keep it that way!
As for the oil dipstick adapter, if you have a design and you are selling them, I would be greatly interested. Before I yanked that engine, I had to make that repair. We were coming home from a trip with my toy hauler. We stopped for something and I noticed this ridiculous puddle of oil under my truck. From the one stop, we zipped over the to auto parts store and left the truck running to check to see if that oil was actually mine from the previous parking lot. OMG, the amount of oil coming out was crazy and I still had another 40 miles to get home. SO I bought many gallons of oil and took a side mountain road home so I could keep stopping to add oil! I cant remember how much oil I used getting home but it was a lot! In effect, I bought the tools to hold that adapter. It took about an hour to change the o-ring and put a gasket on the outside. The hardest part was getting the o-ring to fit into the groove. It never leaked again though.
My cam is stock. From what I've read, only real high HP builds benefit significantly from things like cams and headers...
As for the dipstick adapter. I never thought of selling it, but would be happy to share the design and some instructions. If you don't have access to a lathe and welder, it'd be tough to make. I guess I could make some up for anyone interested.
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From: Exton, PA
And yes, that sender above the cps is the water temp sender. Not an idiot light, but i don't believe the pcm cares about it. It's main concern is oil temp.
As for what may cause a no tach condition while cranking, I think cps is all that would cause that, though I have read that some folks claim their tach doesn't move till the truck starts no matter what, so you might not want to read too much into the no tach condition and consider other things.
One of the sticky threads on no-starts/pcm requirements is very helpful. Also, nate's (diymechanic) "no start flow chart" is extremely helpful. Ask him for it ;-)
As for what may cause a no tach condition while cranking, I think cps is all that would cause that, though I have read that some folks claim their tach doesn't move till the truck starts no matter what, so you might not want to read too much into the no tach condition and consider other things.
One of the sticky threads on no-starts/pcm requirements is very helpful. Also, nate's (diymechanic) "no start flow chart" is extremely helpful. Ask him for it ;-)
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the broken wire was for the CPS.
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Hey - I saw this post a while ago but didn't have time to respond, but am just going through it again catching up. Others have answered the same, but arp head studs are ~550 from riffraff. Not difficult work, but LOTS of brute force effort required though.
My cam is stock. From what I've read, only real high HP builds benefit significantly from things like cams and headers...
As for the dipstick adapter. I never thought of selling it, but would be happy to share the design and some instructions. If you don't have access to a lathe and welder, it'd be tough to make. I guess I could make some up for anyone interested.
My cam is stock. From what I've read, only real high HP builds benefit significantly from things like cams and headers...
As for the dipstick adapter. I never thought of selling it, but would be happy to share the design and some instructions. If you don't have access to a lathe and welder, it'd be tough to make. I guess I could make some up for anyone interested.
I would be interested! I have a welder but no lathe.
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And yes, that sender above the cps is the water temp sender. Not an idiot light, but i don't believe the pcm cares about it. It's main concern is oil temp.
As for what may cause a no tach condition while cranking, I think cps is all that would cause that, though I have read that some folks claim their tach doesn't move till the truck starts no matter what, so you might not want to read too much into the no tach condition and consider other things.
One of the sticky threads on no-starts/pcm requirements is very helpful. Also, nate's (diymechanic) "no start flow chart" is extremely helpful. Ask him for it ;-)
As for what may cause a no tach condition while cranking, I think cps is all that would cause that, though I have read that some folks claim their tach doesn't move till the truck starts no matter what, so you might not want to read too much into the no tach condition and consider other things.
One of the sticky threads on no-starts/pcm requirements is very helpful. Also, nate's (diymechanic) "no start flow chart" is extremely helpful. Ask him for it ;-)
for my truck specifically, the tach does move while cranking it. so I know there is an issue with something. what is crazy, I put the heads back on after the machine shop...and it ran, though it was still blowing oil up the dipstick tube. now that I swapped engines, I have this issue.
can we buy a new harness for our trucks?
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for my truck specifically, the tach does move while cranking it. so I know there is an issue with something. what is crazy, I put the heads back on after the machine shop...and it ran, though it was still blowing oil up the dipstick tube. now that I swapped engines, I have this issue.
can we buy a new harness for our trucks?
can we buy a new harness for our trucks?
ok, just got off the phone with the ford stealer! one, cant buy a new harness. secondly, the parts guy tells me that the 1990-1997 7.3s have a tach sensor. is this true? I thought the pre-PS diesels had them. if we have this sensor on our engine, where is it located?
thanks everyone. I have a glimmer of hope! hopefully this pans out!