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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Water pump Knocking?

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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:11 PM
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Water pump Knocking?

This may be a long post but I want to give all the info involved in this situation.

1999 Ranger 3.0 4x4 230k miles.

I noticed I had the common coolant leak from the timing cover. I decided while I was in there fixing that I would replace the OEM waterpump. So with a trip to Advance I got everything I needed and started on Saturday. During disassembly I broke the "nipple?" on the back of the belt tensioner, so that was another trip to Advance. I got everything removed cleaned up and reinstalled the timing cover Saturday evening. I was really taking my time and lots of breaks.

On Sunday I finished the install and refilled the system with new coolant. Started the truck up and within 30 seconds I heard a squealing and knocking noise. FREAKED ME OUT. I had also installed a new fan clutch so I started troubleshooting by taking that off. Still made the noise and was getting worse. Then I removed the belt to make sure it wasn't the cam synchro. Truck sounded perfect with the belt off.

I put the belt back on, started it back up and with a prybar to my ear I found the noise was in the waterpump. WTF it was a new Carquest brand waterpump. Took it off then on the way home Monday I stopped at Advance and of course they didn't have another. Picked up the 2nd new one tonight. Installed it, same thing again. Now I'm doubting my diagnosis. Checked with belt off, sounded great. Put belt on, sounds like a rod about to come through the block. Put my ear to it again, its coming from the waterpump and no where else. Really ticked off now, I pull it off and install the original one. I am really getting good at this by now. Start it up and once again its roaring, knocking squealing, but worse this time. Everytime it knocks the belt tensioner jumps, then the belt flew off. I try to put it on and realize that tensioner broke the same as the other one did.

The only conclusion I can draw is that the tensioner was too tight. I did notice when putting the belt on it would take evertything I had and I had to take the tensioner all the way to the stop and still barely could get the belt on. I might add I'm around 250 lbs so its not that I am too weak for the tensioner.

Is it possible that that new tensioner is so tight it immediately stressed the bearings in the waterpumps?

Luckily this is not my daily driver, but I will need it if it snows and the headgasket is slowly failing on my DD so I need to get this one fixed soon.

Any help, thoughts similar experiences are much appreciated.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:29 PM
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JWC 3
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Is it possible you got the wrong belt ? I have seen that before , hard to install , too short . Also , with the belt removed , engine off ... rotate all pulleys by hand and check for binding or bad bearings . Also check your dampener while at it . Sounds can carry through the components .
 
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:33 PM
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I kept the same belt as it only had 3k miles on it. Checked the dampner out while it was off, seemed OK. All the pulleys spin fine. I checked sound at all pulleys and all over the motor. It's coming from waterpump. I have some video I will try to upload.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:46 PM
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Here is the first pump on Sunday, had to rev a few times before it would start.

And tonight with the original pump back on

 
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 10:24 PM
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JWC 3 I think you got me pointed in the right direction with the belt being too short. I'd remembered seeing this goofy setup the PO had done. I am betting it stretched the belt too far with the added strength of the new tensioner.

See between the alternator and bracket, I don't think it came from Ford like that.

I will know for sure tomorrow with a new tensioner, then I can put the new WP back on for the 4th time!



 
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 09:25 AM
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^+! on the belt being too short. Check the belt part number for your engine. Also with the belt installed, check the belt tensioner to make sure its indicating tension is within the molded in range marks.
When installing a serp belt, route the belt over all of the walled pulleys first, then slip the smooth back side of the belt over the wall less idler pulley last, as you maneuver the tensioner to give belt slack with your breaker bar in its 3/8" square drive access hole. With the specified length belt installed, the indicated tension should be within the molded in tensioner range marks.
 
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