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Since you read the thread you may have noticed the lack of information available.
Mainly because there is none to be had. Proprietary information.
Even if it was available to us there is nothing we could do with it unless we rewrote the PCM programming.
There is no adjustment or tweaking we can do. It is all controlled within the PCM programing.
All the egr does is open and close to allow spent gas [no oxygen] into the intake to control the air mix to control the combustion temps to stop the formation of Nox.
When it opens for how much and how long it opens is determined entirely by the PCM.
All we can do is keep it cleaned so it can work as commanded or replace it when it no longer works.
I have spent over an hour looking at DTC codes looking for values, lots of codes but not a single actual value. Oh some say the code is thrown if something exceeds a time limit but not what the limit was or inversely if it did not reach a certain point..Still no actual value..
Five pages of google search and nothing.
Not much help I know but the there is not much you can do either.
I'm not totally convinced my intermittent low power/low boost issue IS the EGR valve. I've even seen suggestions to just unplug it (which leaves it in the Closed position).
I've also seen a youtube video about a plugged MAP hose nipple (mine is clear) causing an issue exactly like mine.
Seems like a variety of conditions will tell the Turbo to take a "time out".
I probably need to connect truck to a "Big Boy" diagnostic machine, as my el-cheapo ScanGaugeII monitor leaves many questions unanswered.
By chance did you get the soapy water in the little holes there is a grey gasket that covers those holes , carb cleaner or water in the Electrical side will Damage the EGR Valve.
By programming EVD and EVM in my scangauge, I was able to diagnose a bad valve. The measured value didn't follow the desired very well.
If you unplug the EGR valve and the truck runs better, you found your problem.
So, what I have noticed with EGR operation is, It starts opening when the EOT/ECT are around 180°. After the initial open, it seems like it opens and closes with the throttle position and after a couple minutes of idling, it closes.
EBP sensor if the tube was clear?
Haven't checked yet
ICP pressure and IPR % at idle?
800 26
soapy water in the little holes...
No, did not wet the solenoid or wiring connector area
unplug the EGR valve...
Results not consistent - sometimes would run normal 2-3 wot runs After disconnecting. At this point, 4-5 wot runs tested good.
Reconnect = more bad than good. Thought this was it !! .....however....
Disconnect = bad again ! ! ! ???
Only consistent is: runs normal, good boost as long as throttle not wide open.
1/2 - 3/4 pedal = slower to accel & build boost, but it will do both.
Now we need to see what is happening at the time of the event when it doesn't work and compare against what happens when it does run/accelerate etc.
Possibly need to add app values. See if there is a dead spot of the potentiometers.
App will show 3 values any 2 have to agree within 2 points/vlt. to work properly.
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