tensioner pulley problem
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
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From: N.E Oregon
tensioner pulley problem
My tensioner pulley is screeching like crazy for two weeks so I ordered a Gates replacement & it came in yesterday. The pulley is correct. My problem is that I cannot for the life of me get the retaining bolt to break free so I can replace the pulley. I am using a 18" breaker bar with no luck, both to the left and the right in case it is left handed. Is there something I'm missing?
New User
Joined: Dec 2014
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What year truck? Which motor do you have? Mine was a T55 bit, and I used a manual impact driver to break it loose. Found the tool at Advance for cheap. Hit it with a hammer and it turns the bolt. I'm assuming you have tried PB blaster or freeze off already?
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
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From: N.E Oregon
See siggie for motor info. Yes, tried everything I know of including having an 18 year old try w/o success. (I'm 68) Is this right hand or left hand threaded? Also, just to be clear, it is the pulley that rides on the belt to keep it tight.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
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From: N.E Oregon
Thank you very much. It is not the belt, it is the pulley. A little WD-40 & it quiets right down for a little while. I did the water test on the belt & it did not squeal at all. Thanks again!
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 856
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From: Livonia, MI
I have a 96 straight 6 and I just replaced the pulley yesterday. Used a 16 mm wrench and it turned counter-clockwise to loosen. This is from the on-line manual:
<table width="95%"><tbody><tr><td>Section 03-05: Drive Belts, Accessory
</td><td align="RIGHT">1996 F-Series, Bronco Workshop Manual
</td></tr></tbody></table>REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
<hr>Belt Tensioner Pulley Replacement
<table border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3"><tbody><tr><th align="CENTER" valign="bottom">Engine</th><th align="CENTER" valign="bottom">Tensioner</th><th align="CENTER" valign="bottom">Replacement Pulley</th></tr><tr><td align="CENTER" valign="top">4.9L/7.5L</td><td align="CENTER" valign="top">F5TE-6B209-CA</td><td align="CENTER" valign="top">E9TA-19A216-BA</td></tr></tbody></table>
Conditions requiring pulley replacement are excessive pulley wear or pulley bearing noise usually resulting from extended operation in abrasive off-road conditions.
Using a 16mm closed-end wrench, remove the drive belt (8620) according to the Drive Belt Tensioner, Automatic removal procedure in this section. Removal
NOTE: 7.5L (not F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis) bolts have a left-hand thread, requiring clockwise motion to loosen the bolts. 4.9L and 7.5L F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis idler pulley bolts, which loosen counterclockwise, have a conventional right-hand thread.
<table width="95%"><tbody><tr><td>Section 03-05: Drive Belts, Accessory
</td><td align="RIGHT">1996 F-Series, Bronco Workshop Manual
</td></tr></tbody></table>REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
<hr>Belt Tensioner Pulley Replacement
<table border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3"><tbody><tr><th align="CENTER" valign="bottom">Engine</th><th align="CENTER" valign="bottom">Tensioner</th><th align="CENTER" valign="bottom">Replacement Pulley</th></tr><tr><td align="CENTER" valign="top">4.9L/7.5L</td><td align="CENTER" valign="top">F5TE-6B209-CA</td><td align="CENTER" valign="top">E9TA-19A216-BA</td></tr></tbody></table>
Conditions requiring pulley replacement are excessive pulley wear or pulley bearing noise usually resulting from extended operation in abrasive off-road conditions.
Using a 16mm closed-end wrench, remove the drive belt (8620) according to the Drive Belt Tensioner, Automatic removal procedure in this section. Removal
NOTE: 7.5L (not F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis) bolts have a left-hand thread, requiring clockwise motion to loosen the bolts. 4.9L and 7.5L F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis idler pulley bolts, which loosen counterclockwise, have a conventional right-hand thread.
NOTE: Excessive rearward force on the bolt during removal may overstress and crack the tensioner arm.
NOTE: Pulleys being replaced for suspected bearing wear should be evaluated for rough bearings. Bearing noise that continues or rapidly returns after a replacement pulley is installed is usually belt chirp rather than worn bearings. Bearings should rotate smoothly with a slight resistance due to the permanent lubrication.
Using the 16mm wrench, loosen the belt idler pulley retention bolt or nut.
- Remove bolt or nut and dust shield and remove the drive belt tensioner (6B209) from the tensioner arm locating boss.
- Replace the pulley and reverse the removal instructions observing the correct rotation of the retention bolt.
- Tighten bolt or nut to specifications.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,171
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From: Denton, TX
For what it is worth, similar to the info joegeds posted, the 5.0 and 5.8 tensioner assembly bolt and the bolt holding the tensioner pulley to the tensioner assembly itself are both normal threads.
They are NOT reverse threads.
If you are standing on the passenger's side of the truck and the wrench handle is upwards from the bolt, you should be pulling it.
Not sure why it is fighting you so much. But possibly your lack of confidence that you are pulling in the correct direction has you holding back some of your strength? Get mad at it..
They are NOT reverse threads.
If you are standing on the passenger's side of the truck and the wrench handle is upwards from the bolt, you should be pulling it.
Not sure why it is fighting you so much. But possibly your lack of confidence that you are pulling in the correct direction has you holding back some of your strength? Get mad at it..
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Senior User
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From: N.E Oregon
I'm plenty mad at it...time for the cheater bar. I really believe that the former owner was a gorilla, everything on this truck is way over-torqued.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 139
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From: N.E Oregon
For what it is worth, similar to the info joegeds posted, the 5.0 and 5.8 tensioner assembly bolt and the bolt holding the tensioner pulley to the tensioner assembly itself are both normal threads.
They are NOT reverse threads.
If you are standing on the passenger's side of the truck and the wrench handle is upwards from the bolt, you should be pulling it.
Not sure why it is fighting you so much. But possibly your lack of confidence that you are pulling in the correct direction has you holding back some of your strength? Get mad at it..
They are NOT reverse threads.
If you are standing on the passenger's side of the truck and the wrench handle is upwards from the bolt, you should be pulling it.
Not sure why it is fighting you so much. But possibly your lack of confidence that you are pulling in the correct direction has you holding back some of your strength? Get mad at it..
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,450
Likes: 5,520
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i wonder if the last person to touch it filled the threads with permanent locktite?
i saw that on a water pump. when asked why the fan had locktite on it, the idiot said so it would not come off. he was not happy when he had to fork over an extra $150 for a new fan and clutch.
i saw that on a water pump. when asked why the fan had locktite on it, the idiot said so it would not come off. he was not happy when he had to fork over an extra $150 for a new fan and clutch.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
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From: N.E Oregon
It had to be something of that order. It took a while to clean the threads offt and it was uber gummy and hard. The female threads were worse. I used a tap for that and it worked okay. The PO must have been a gorilla because everything I touch on this truck has been way over torqued.
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