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I have a rusty 99 van and have found a rust free 2000 e-250 that doesn't have cruise. I want to take my cruise out of the 99 and put it in the new van. I have the steering wheel w all switches and the cruise unit. Is this a easy switch or are we talkin wiring harness and other stuff to get it to work? Anybody know anything about this please? Thanks!
The only way to swap out or add in factory CC along with the steering wheel controls is first determining if the "new" chassis/body has the necessary wiring. If it doesn't then you're mostly SOL.
There will be a flat 10 pin plug (brown or black) clipped to the left (drivers) side inner fender. Look under the battery junction box, master cylinder and coolant reservoir for this:
This is a more close view of the plug:
Without it abandon hope for adding factory CC----trust me on this---been there, did NOT do that!
BTW the other connector below this is a secondary CC cancel switch connector----it does NOT have to be there for factory CC to work IF the other plug is installed.
Thanks man! I will take your advice, thanks for the photos and all. You would think they'd a put the right wiring in from the jump, in all of them, but I bet Mr. Snoid sitting up in some office found a way to save .49 or something. Maybe there is an aftermarket kit that isn't too bad, will look.
Bought a beat-to-death '97 E250, bare cargo van but with everything but cruise and power seats. Found a dirt cheap NEW OEM cruise control kit without knowing that plug was vital. Even though that point was made abundantly clear in the kit instructions I paid no attention until..............
Sold the '97, bought an '00 without cruise that did have the necessary connector. Swapped in the '97 kit but after about 5 hours working with a Ford stealership after-sale electronics installer---we finally determined the two chassis were highly incompatible with one another wiring location-wise.
Eventually found the correct year OEM kit, brand new from bankrupt original supplier's clearance sale. Physically it installed in about an hour and worked first time out, never failed in over 5 years operation.
I found a 2000 pristene body with 72,000 original miles 5.4 w/ R470W tranny, (I have a fresh transmission to drop in when needed plus many other new parts off my 99 van. The only problem is , this van sat for at least 4 years so there are fuel tank varnish and the whole fuel system needs to be gone thru. It's ok, a labor of love for me!!
I couldn't find a van with power windows, but would sure like at least one on drivers side, do I need ford harness for that too? Or do a aftermarket, that window crank is so low to reach.
I swapped out parts interior door panels (complete w/switches, power regulators and inner door wiring harnesses from my '97 E250 onto the '00 somewhat successfully. Using portions of scrap yard wiring harness leading from the door harnesses I added an always on power connection and fabricated wiring harnesses to interconnect all doors with the PDL control.
I shy away from aftermarket stuff because its NEVER as easy as it's claimed to be, the quality is at best suspect and there are almost always better ways to achieve the same end result. Then again I'm a bit of a snob about such things so my approach might not suit everyone.
JWA, So I am lookin for the cable bracket that may or may not be on the throttle body for the cruise, then change over my steering wheel and insert 10 pin plug and mount cruise unit? Also get a fuse in the right place would help. Is there anything else I need to look out for on this swap? THX
The attachment for the cable should be made on the existing TB cam, to which the already-installed foot actuated cable is present. Assuming that pigtail lead is in place then in theory your entire chassis is set up for that addition.
Fuse should be 10 amp in spot #6, inside fuse block. Because that fuse also protects the shift interlock it should be installed and ready to go.
I'm assuming you know to change the clockspring too? For that I'd buy new, no need to go used and deal with it wearing out shortly after this swap.
You'll be working with the air bag---assuming you know the potential downsides to that?
YES! I am aware of the air bag procedure! Isn't there a brake switch off the master cylinder for this as well? I think my old van had that and I did not see one on my new old van. By the way this van was used in telecom and I am removing a nice used weatherguard setup 2 four drawer cabinets, 3 cabinets with shelves rubber tool pads on many, two full side shelves one with parts drawers and dividers, also a bulkhead partition, heavy duty full length floor mat. Know anybody that is looking?
The master cylinder switch is a secondary cancelling switch that isn't 100% necessary. Installing it requires replacing the master cylinder with the appropriate fitting---when I checked on new cost they were about $100 more than the same thing without that port.
Those rear racks and partitions are almost impossible to sell---almost tough to simply give away. If its already removed and of no use I'd post it on Craig's List as a come and get it deal or maybe think of simply recycling it all---could bring a nice chunk of change at a scrap yard.
I've tried selling that stuff but finally had to almost beg someone to pick it up---even had to help load it up.
I think I will check into a new clockspring as well. If it doesn't need it I won't do it! I kinda thought I might end up taking those down to the scrap man, but can use some of the drawers in my shop, after getting those puppies all out and looking around inside that body, there is absolutely no rust anywhere at least that I can see! I want to setup a dual tranny cooler using my other vans cooler up front, thinking about a oversize tranny pan, any thoughts on that? Thanks by the way for your help!
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