I'm new here and want to start a van build thread since there are not that many of them. I’m doing this van build with the end result to travel around the U.S. for the summer of 2016. This will mark the year of our 25yr anniversary for my wife and I. I’m looking to build this van on the cheap for the most part, looking to save money where I can to put towards our trip. The build platform will be a 1995 E250 extended, 300 inline 6 with automatic trans. Here are a few pictures of the van.






Sorry I dont have any pictures of the inside yet.

 

The first thing I made for the van was a couple of light fixtures for it.
Started off by cutting up some 1"x2" cut on 45* angles


Pre drilled and countersunk holes.


Im using scraps of sign lighting white 40% bought from the local plastic store. Cut to size and pre drill holes and countersink.


This is the back that I made for the fixture with some left over wood I had.



The next 3 pics are of the led light(super bright Warm white Wedge 48-SMD LED Light Panel) and the on/off switch (250V 3A 2 Pin) and them installed.




And a couple of pic of it hooked up to my car battery to verify that they work.



One project down and many more to go!

 

Welcome to FTE's van forum----great place for a lot of technical info about them here.

From where did the LED SMB assembly come? I run a cargo/work van nicely outfitted and use ready-made Thin-Lite LED fixtures.

When you get photos of the bare floor in the cargo area please post those. I'm built out 3 E250's and believe I've learned a lot about flooring.

Your wood working skills look to be good and that'll serve you well during this build.

 

Tagged for interest. Love a good home build thread!

 

Good luck with the build out. I'm currently in the process of doing the same thing, but a 1997 e350 Club wagon v10. I've stripped out the interior, begun insulation, while doing the necessary mechanical work. Mechanical work to be mostly completed within a week or two. Then I'll be focused on the interior build.

I'm looking forward to reading about your project and progress. Keep posting!

 

Please share your knowledge. I'm looking for flooring ideas. Very clean factory floor to start with. Any ideas appreciated. My apologies, I'm not trying to hijack the thread.

 

Not a hijack at all----its within the scope of this build, could be useful to more than a few.......

Generally the only thing needed on the metal floor is wall-to-wall plywood, preferably 3/4" 5 ply. I avoid CDX if its only 3 ply as that's not the best; OTOH it doesn't need to be any better than a C grade unless you want to spend too much for the B grade stuff. Mostly you're looking for what will be the outer surface to be free of knots and large check marks, that that leave depressions or holes in that top layer.

Assuming the metal floor is rust-free or has been properly treated there's nothing else recommended. All too often first time builders think layers of sound deadening and/or radiant barrier insulation under the plywood is a big benefit but in real life its just a waste of time, money and labor---such practices don't add enough benefit to justify it.

For proof drive the empty cargo van around a few days, completely empty--absolutely nothing on the walls or floor---nothing. Next place one or two full sheets of 3/4" plywood in the back, single layer if possible, don't screw or otherwise attach it to the metal floor--repeat the test drive and notice the difference. Its kinda huge.

At least 50% of road noise comes from the floor, think of you riding inside a drum--same effect.

One "trick" I use is running the plywood under the lower flanges, located 2" +/- above the floor about 1 1/4" wide. I'll then cut dimensional lumber into strips or blocks that sit proud of those flanges (facing inward) and drill/screw downward through the flanges into that wood. This secures the edges in a way that don't require drilling/screwing through the plywood into the metal floor. Those living in 4 season climates can understand how quickly rust will grow from that.

I use the full 8' length of the plywood sheets but cut the van body outer profile so there is a seam or split running that length but falling directly over one of the floor ribs. Cutting 1/2" strips of plywood I fashion a spline that acts as a screw backing, drill & countersink holes only through the 3/4" plywood and use #10 or #12 1" screws to butt-join the sheets together.

Because the floors are longer than 8' the two sheets won't cover it completely even on a standard body---another piece running side to side is the most economical way. Same treatment on the left side flange-wise, whatever choice is made concerning the right side footwell is owner's choice---I essentially eliminate that on my vans, have external full-length running boards fabricated and installed, DIY BTW.

I can add more if needed/wanted but that'll get ya started.

Here's one of my posts about E-Series van floors: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-por-15-a.html

This PhotoBucket link shows the floor in various views and steps of the progress: http://s184.photobucket.com/user/JWA...?sort=3&page=1 They're not in any particular order so pay no attention to their placement---its at best random.

HTH