Ok so it's been a few months, for some reason I was locked out of posting. But Anyway, I got my V codes and installed them (15 hours later). Loved the ride. And put my 35x12.5x18's on it. BTW The Cooper Discoverer STT are pretty awesome.

So of course there was a little rubbing on the front bumper and inside fender. So I bought 2" front leaf shackles to raise it up a bit and put 3" lift blocks on the back. So after a little bumper trim it only rubs on the leaf springs during sharp turning (ie parking lots, or turning around). I believe this is due to not enough backspacing?

• Now the back is about an inch lower (which I don't like)

• The ride is not as good (seems to be because of the angle of front leaf springs due to the hangers. How do you guys raise the front with just V codes without screwing up the ride?

• And my rear blocks shifted a little. (could be due to the bolts not being tight enough or could be axle wrap)

So after all this time I have spent installing the lift, I wish I had bought the Rough Country 5" lift (with new front springs) and their anti-wrap blocks for the same amount I have spent so far.


But originally I didn't want it too high because of my wife and daughter, and I was going to try to get away with just the v codes. And I was trying to keep the costs low.


So after all this wonderful wisdom I have accrued I want to go back in time and put the Rough Country 5" lift on for $799. Anyone own a time machine?


So my options are:

• Try to buy the anti-wrap 5" blocks separately and just live with the shackles and v codes.
• Sell my v codes and shackles and blocks, and buy the Rough Country (which would be a huge pain in the *ss, and still set me back another $400 probably)
• Or ? Hoping for some inexpensive help here.

Here are some before during and after photos.

 

Just a quick tip: don't post for sale ads in the forum and you won't get locked again

 

You should be able to insert photos using the uploader provided by FTE. After you upload them you just have to hit insert and they should pop in. If not, you can upload them to a site like PhotoBucket and insert them copying and pasting the forum code here. I can't be much help when it comes to lifts sorry, however pics often draw more help.

Also, Apoc is right (kind of... sarcasm isn't always as funny as some people think), can't post for sale ads here. However, most of your post is about your rubbing problem... looks like the offer to sell is more of a joke.

 

With the incredible amount of coverage regarding spring swaps, leveling, and the vast amount of us that have hugely successful improvements in ride and handling, I can't help but wonder if you screwed something up. Not being an ***, but it's the truth. Personally I have V-code fronts and a 2" drop hangar kit from Icon up front and modified B-code rears over the stock block.

I do have to ask if you are 100% positive the rear is lower than the front? Only reason I ask is because completely level will look a little low in the rear due to the curved roof.

What brand shackles did you use? I don't really see how the shackles caused the ride quality to degrade UNLESS you torqued them down with the truck up on jackstands and not weighted down on the wheels. Doing so can cause them to bind up and not move as easily. Ideally you should've snugged them up, dropped the truck down off the jackstands, THEN torqued the front and rear leafspring bolts to final spec. I don't see how the spring angle could have changed, the drop hangar in the front and the shackle in the back should be the same length with any aftermarket kit...

Regarding the rear blocks, are they dirt-cheap ones? Or do they have the nub and pocket so they get located by the spring and perch? A little rotation or pivoting with the nub and pocket style isn't terrible, but it's not great - I would double check the u-bolts and torque them to spec again. Realistically you should have done this about a week after installing them, then again after a month just to be sure. They'll stretch and work around a little bit with use. Just like double checking the torque on lugnuts for new hardware and wheels on a vehicle after a week.
If the blocks are indeed the cheapo ones, Get. Rid. Of. Them.

The blocks are also going to impart even more leverage on the stock rear springs, which in turn can increase wandering issues. That's where the B-code rear swap comes into play... Stiffer spring, more resistant to axle wrap, but not overly harsh so they won't pound you to death driving down the road. I don't know what kind of anti-wrap blocks you're looking at, but the only ones that I've seen that're worth a **** are the ORO ones and they're more than that crap Rough Country lift.

Rubbing is most likely caused by the backspacing. You failed to list your wheel specs, so I can't help much on that front. It's not uncommon, mine does it at absolute full lock, backing off just a touch and it stops and the difference in steering radius at that point is so minimal I just don't crank it to the stops anymore.

You gotta pay to play, I've ridden in a few friends' rigs with Rough Country lifts and Rough is certainly a great descriptor for the ride quality - it's absolute ****. You gotta pay to play, especially with the Excursion... You aren't going to find a cheap way of doing things right sometimes, and unfortunately suspension is one of them. I went with V/B code springs and drop hangars so I could run 35's without issues, improve the ride (ie firm it up a bit and help the wander issues), and they weren't that hard to track down. If you spend some time looking in parts yards or online you'll find them for a good price and get it done right without breaking the bank, tons of members here have done it with huge success.

I vote for Option 4: more details on parts used (etc), and some pictures of your actual suspension setup may be helpful. From there we can hopefully go with your Option 3.

 

First off the title "Need help with lift. Anyone want to buy my V codes" was not meant to be a for sale ad, should have been obvious to most. It was more to elicit some help with people that know about v codes and to be a little witty. I'll try to stick to the facts so I don't get banned. Glad to see nmclella got it.

Krazee Matt, thanks for the response. Not sure the brand of shackles I got them on ebay, but they seem to be very high quality. They defiantly moved when I put the weight down on the axle so I dont think they are bound. But since they are longer it stands to reason and is apparent that the rear of the leaf spring is lower than the front over stock shackles. Although that may not be a big deal. It could also be my imagination that the ride is different, but it seems if the back of the spring is lower than the front it would effect the ride. Over them both being centered.

Oh I may have just realized the problem after rereading your post. I only bought the rear shackle, they are stock front hangers. Is that the problem?

I'm not sure of the backspacing on my wheels, I'll have to check but I'm guessing its not enough or too much whichever makes them rub. But I can live with that.

The rear blocks are Zone and they do have the nub on them. But they probably just need re torqued. I liked the look of the Rough Country ones because they have additional u bolts to keep them from moving. http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps9ff50677.jpg

how much additional lift over stock will the b codes get me?

It is actually about level from front to back, maybe a 1/2" lower in the back but I don't like the look of that. I prefer it to have a slight rake, similar to stock.

I appreciate the help.




Here are the pics.


http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps6432cc92.jpg

http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...psdc889fdd.jpg

http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps4bb547e4.jpg

http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps9f0f6c15.jpg

http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps8741a864.jpg

http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps4c120fa2.jpg

 

Did you install just shackles or a shackle/hanger kit?

the change in angle of the spring from just a shackle might be creating the undesirable ride

EDIT: just saw your post, yes I believe you might benefit from a hanger as well the shackles you already have

 

Fixed your pics for bud. For future reference you need the [img]link[/img] tags and not the url ones Love the rims, they look sharp!

No problem bud. I would definitely say that's where the front end issues are stemming from. My hangar kit from Icon included the entire front mount block as well as the new rear shackles. The way the suspension cycles will be upwards and technically a little bit back (barely,.. like itty bitty). That longer rear shackle has thrown the geometry off and as a result there's substantially more resistance to the natural movement of the spring. You'll get a bit more lift up front with the proper setup, just a bit not a huge amount. You'll be much happier with it after that.

I have modified B code rears, which gave me right around 3.75-4" of lift. Overall the rig is noticeably higher than stock, but not insanely so. With the lift and tires I'd say it's about 5" over a stocker with OEM size tires.

 

Noticed in the pic of your rear block and ubolts that the ubolts arent straight, they flare out down around the axle tube instead of being parallel up and down, not sure if that allowed the block to shift on you but that might cause them to loosen a slight amount if the ubolts should happen to go parallel on their own from driving

 

Good point Jamesbfishin, I hadn't noticed that. I will be taking them off and redoing them. That might explain the strange loud metal popping sound I heard on the highway that freaked me out.

Thanks again KrazeeMatt, I knew something was weird about the front geometry but never even thought about a hanger. I will be doing that.

 

Good luck with the fixes bud, hope you achieve exactly what youre looking for

Beautiful rig btw

 

Glad Krazee got you sorted out.
Let me tell you the the RC lift is not the solution ! I had the 5" RC lift, it was high on the front from day 1 and never settled, when the guy who sold it to me tried to fix this with stacked rear blocks it failed catastrophically, i subsequently did a v/b swap with hanger on the front from CT performance- truck now level and rides good.

 

No problem bud, glad to help out. Even more so that you get to go with Option 3!

 

Thanks guys, I'll update when shes sorted out.

 

I just installed the rough country 5", i like the way it rides (like a truck, I dont like a spongy feel, needs to be firm) after wheels (20s) & tires (285/65) i'm up around 7". A little higher than I expected so kids now think its a jungle gym. I like the anti wrap brackets in the back, too many stories of blocks getting spit out and installation was fairly easy. I would expect them to sell the rear brackets seperately. If you broke one, you'd need to buy one, but they may be pricey seperately.