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How old is that sales article? The seller has had the truck for around a year. It looks like the truck(to a tee). He also claimed to have bought the truck for 15,000.
I don't know how old it is, but it is no longer on their active inventory. It's listed on page 74 of the sold inventory list.
It looks like that "museum" is more a used collector/specialty vehicle broker/reseller that charges to look at the cars for sale. Most of the vehicles for sale appear to be consigned by outside owners not built restored or exhibited by them. Those places charge a commission on the consigned price plug any additional markup they can get out of the buyers. The top of the fenders is not the first place to rust on an F1 fender. More often it is the metal above and below the seam where the 2 halves bolt together, at the bottom of the fenders where they bolt to the running boards, at the bottom of the front fenders around the frame horn openings and below the headlight (any place where there is a doubler (reinforcing piece of metal) on the inside. See the article I just started to other day: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-try-2-a.html for picture of the typical rust prone areas. F1 fenders are notoriously expensive to fix. That truck is not likely to have not survived over 65 years in that condition, so it has had some work done on it some time in it's past. True survivor garage finds are EXTREMELY rare, especially post war years pickup trucks which were almost exclusively bought/used as work vehicles and were "rode hard and put up wet" not pampered and primped. Best way to examine the truck is with a thin cotton glove and a flexible thin plastic refrigerator magnet, the type that are usually given away with advertising on them. Put on the glove and place the entire palm of your hand (not just your fingers) flat on the body and slowly slide it over the surface like you are wiping the dust off it. Be aware of any small humps and bumps or rough spots in the problem areas (check the lower portion of the cab corners in front of and behind the door, the lower 6" of the door skins and the door frame along the bottom of the doors. If you can see rust, what is actually there under the paint is likely to be much more extensive. Press firmly immediately around any visible rust feeling for "soft" feeling. Place the refrigerator magnet on the body in the usual rust areas and if it sticks, slide it along by lightly pushing on the edge. If there is body work, bondo etc the weak magnet will fall off. Don't use a magnet strong enough to pick up a paper clip. IMHO unless it is a verifiable garage find survivor, or a 100 point professional frame off restoration: All the right factory original parts, underhood decals, factory tire changing tools in the original cloth bag behind the seat, original air in the tires, etc. Stock F1s, even nice ones don't bring that kind of money. At a major classic car auction I'd estimate it would sell for 65-8000.00, Stock F1's aren't particularly rare or in high demand. IMHO anyone who would pay 15K for that truck has more money than sense.
I have spent the best part of this day drooling over that
Volo web site. Awesome to say the least. Beautiful cars
and trucks. Overpriced to say the least. Listen to Ax ^^^.
He is right spot on. Dude keep looking. For that money
You can buy so much more. Shop around some more Please.
Yes it's a great looking and sounds like a great truck.
But no where near what they are asking. He bought it thinking
it was as advertized. Now he wants to sell it. What's that tell ya?
And what ain't he telling ya.
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