So... Truck has been losing coolant (2004 350 KR CC). I have now done about every test that I have read about to figure out the problem(s). I figured I would run my findings by the community and see what they think. Here goes:

It all started a few weeks ago with the initial arctic blast. Truck starts fine in the mornings without being plugged in (single digit temps). The second morning, got a bunch of bluish white smoke. Then saw my coolant levels drop so started all the testing.

No increase or decrease in oil levels. No signs (or extremely minimal) of coolant in oil or vice versa. T-ed in the gauge to the coolant line and was getting 12+ psi in the system on the highway. So, I then pressure and vacuum tested system but got less than a 1psi drop in 30 mins. Appears that its not a head gasket problem?????

Truck is fairly new to me so went and bought a Scangauge. Deltas are horrible! 25* spread! Coolant is running 180-185* and oil is about 205* on the highway. So plugged oil cooler????

Was gonna pull the EGR valve but got sidelined by trying to cut off my big toe last weekend (been tough to walk around for a while now). Either way, there is sticky carbon on the intake around the EGR valve so Im guessing I dont even need to look inside to see how bad it is.

Final straw was I noticed coolant dripping from the back of the motor after I drove it last. Crawled up under the truck with a flashlight and saw it dripping out of the up pipe that the EGR cooler connects to. Pretty much says the cooler is toast???

Sorry for the long post. Because of the high delta and leaking at the up pipe, the truck is parked for the time being to avoid hydrolocking. Just thought I would get any extra ideas before I opened it up. Thanks in advance to all the knowledge here!!!!

 

I think you are in right track. Take a.looksee in EGR.

 

Woodlander,

I get the extra material taken out of / off of my foot tomorrow, so I may climb up on the truck and do that. Has anyone ever seen the sticky coolant/carbon actually leak out around the EGR valve like I described?

PS to my original post. I have 4 gallons of Zerex G05 in the truck right now. Was planning to flush the system before doing the repairs. Anyone see a problem with the leaking at the up pipe? Should I just unplug the EGR valve to make sure no coolant gets sent into the intake?

 

Slam a set of oil and EGR coolers at it and move on with life. Pretty standard 6.0L stuff here, by the sounds of things.

 

M-chan,

Thats pretty much the plan at this point. Just want to make that Im not missing something. Gonna be in it, figured I should do as much work as I can while Im there.

PS again - T-stat seems to trip around 175-180. Replace????

 

Yes replace should be 190

 

If enough coolant got onto the EGR valve you may want to add one of those to your shopping list as well. The EGR valve is not just a valve but also a position sensor all in one. I have seen more than my share where coolant messed up the voltage reading of the valve, putting it way out of calibration and setting P1335 codes. Also, when cleaning the oil cooler top and bottom covers, remove your EOT sensor and EOP switch. I have also seen where the cleaning process has messed up the EOP switch, causing a massive oil leak shortly after a repair like this. Better yet, maybe even install a new one for how little it costs. Good luck and have fun.

 

m-chan,

Forgot about the codes. Been chatting with a mechanic that has some 6.0 experience and he had been helping me by letting me use some of his test equipment. The truck did have a P-1335 along with another EGR code and also exhaust back pressure too low (dont remember the numbers). Does that all fit with your experience?

Sorry I keep adding info. Cant seem to get all my thoughts together at the same time today...

 

Also want to add I sure wouldnt flush prior with leaking cooler.

 

P1335 alone, mandates EGR valve replacement because it means the EGR valve position sensor reading at KOEO is significantly higher than the 0.85 volts that it should be. Your EBP code I wouldn`t be too concerned about until you complete the repair. An EGR valve not functioning properly can definitely affect your EBP readings. If you want to check the reading, compare it to your MAP and BARO readings at KOEO. If they are within 0.5 psi of each other, you should be fine.

 

Woodlander,

Probably a good point. I have read that you should flush before replacing the oil cooler to not get any crap in the new one. Think taking it to my buddies radiator shop directly after the cooler changes would cause any problems? I want to do the flush there since he has all the goodies like VC-9 and the air/water machine to blow all the water out of the motor after cleaning...

M-chan,

Thanks for the heads up on the codes. I will definitely add the valve to the parts list and then check the readings after I replace everything

 

Verify the heater hose right above it is not whats leaking first.

 

Thanks for the idea Cheezit. Went out this morning and looked over the heater core lines and they are all completely dry so Im back to the cooler itself is leaking into the exhaust.

Unless someone else has any other ideas?

 

Sorry, I figured its simple enugh to check and ive seen a few leak

 

Cheezit, no big deal. As I posted before, trying to get a handle on everything I need to do when I open it up. I dont want to get it put back together and then realize I missed something and tear it down again.

I dont know very much about the 6.0 yet. I can tear down and rebuild a Rolls Royce turbine engine but I didnt learn that overnight either. All the ideas and tips are much appreciated...