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Battery Relocation

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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 05:14 PM
  #1  
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Battery Relocation

As promised, here is the thread for my battery relocation project.
I used a trunk style relocation kit as a source for the cables. I picked it up on ebay cheaper than buying bulk cable.


I got the weld on tray from summit.


First time with my new MIG, don't laugh at my booger welds, lol!


I removed the solenoid, and mega fuse, and relocated them to the space between the inner fender and fender liner. No voltage regulator due to 3G alternator.




I also added a headlight relay kit and mounted the relays there also.


Once the components were mounted, I cut the cable and soldered and crimped lugs on them. The only problem I've encountered is that the stock battery is too tall for the new location. I'm considering an AGM battery, or going with a conventional battery with side posts. I test fired it with the stock battery sitting on the ground and all is well.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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Looks pretty cool...thinking along the same lines for my crew. Nice job!
 
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 06:11 PM
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Looks pretty clean with everything removed.


Here you can also see the allen head bolts I used to hold all the components inside the fender.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 07:23 PM
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Nice job, what's up with the copper heater lines, very interesting. If you are cleaning it up you might as well trash can the evap/emissions filter.

AGM $$$ so I hear. You only learn to weld by welding, hard to get the heat right with a thick frame and thin battery bracket material.

With that open spot its now a nice place to put another ammo can/tool box...yes I know that defeats your purpose of cleaning up under the hood.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Nice job, what's up with the copper heater lines, very interesting. If you are cleaning it up you might as well trash can the evap/emissions filter.

AGM $$$ so I hear. You only learn to weld by welding, hard to get the heat right with a thick frame and thin battery bracket material.

With that open spot its now a nice place to put another ammo can/tool box...yes I know that defeats your purpose of cleaning up under the hood.
Now that ya got a welder close up all them holes. Weld the Allen headed bolts and grind off their heads to further clean it up. Consider installing late-Dent wheel well liners to effectively hide and keep clean the hidden wiring.

The copper tubing works but is detractive from what seems to be an otherwise clean and detailed engine.. If I saw that at a car show or at a Sonic drive-in, I'd wonder what over Home Depot-sourced repairs lurk underneath... bailing wire in place of cotter pins? Roofing tar for Dynamat/Fatmat? Wire nuts holding the electrical system together?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Nice job, what's up with the copper heater lines, very interesting.
I'm kind of enthralled by the copper.
It's different, and when coupled with a six it's pretty cool.
I'm thinking of a rat truck project and might steal that idea.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 08:47 PM
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Wouldn't the engine vibrations cause those copper links to fracture eventually?

What about bolting the battery tray to the frame?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 08:10 AM
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Do you ever plan to drive in rain , mud, snow or road splash in salt treated road ways? I would not like to have an electrical problem on the road late at night and have to get under it to do repairs . I would keep towing service and hope i could call for help. But all that said , it's your truck so do it your way. I'm just and old 73 year old cranky guy that likes things a little more easy. It looks good and clean though.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by turbohunter
I'm kind of enthralled by the copper.

 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by psychlopath
Brilliant
 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 04:19 PM
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HIO - do you mean I shouldn't use chain-link fence pipe for my exhaust either?
The truck isn't a DD, never leaves the city limits, and is put away in the winter. I've had the copper lines for a couple years now with no trouble. Just wanted something different, but they are overdue for a detailing. My goal was to rid the bay of all plastic and rubber, or at least hide it. There are rubber transitions at the firewall where any flex would occur. Also the 300 is naturally a smooth running engine.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 04:23 PM
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That sig pic of yours is to small.
Can you post some more pics of your engine bay (and your truck for that matter).
I dig it.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 04:34 PM
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I like the copper it's different....kinda steam punky!
 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by grnlzrd
HIO - do you mean I shouldn't use chain-link fence pipe for my exhaust either?
Originally Posted by fordrealdrive
I like the copper it's different....kinda steam punky!
Originally Posted by turbohunter
I'm kind of enthralled by the copper.
It's different, and when coupled with a six it's pretty cool.
I'm thinking of a rat truck project and might steal that idea.
These comments relate to my point... it seems to be part street rod, part rodentia, part steam punky. What is it? In the end it's all good. Your truck, your call, and I support the First Amendment.

A detail I just noticed is that the merge downpipe of the exhaust manifolds should be more of a Y instead of a T - spent gasses aren't very efficient at making a 90° turn.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 06:16 PM
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Galvanized pipe gives off poison gas(the stuff they make galvanize with) then it get hot enough. If the pipe starts smoking,run,run fast away.Not good stuff it will kill you.
 
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