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Shimmy problem

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Old 11-30-2014, 04:55 PM
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Shimmy problem

I have an 05 F-250 which I bought used about 3.5 years ago with a 6-in lift kit and 33" tires. A few days ago I took a 400-mile trip and every time I hit a bump on the freeway the front axle vibrated violently and caused the steering wheel to also vibrate badly. I had to hit the brake to slow way down to kill it.


I got a letter from Ford last year stating that this is called shimmy and that it's normal for 4WD solid front axle trucks. Ford said that one could improve by proper tire inflation and not to install lift kit. Well, this issue didn't happen very much for the first couple of years that I own it, but now it seems to get worse. So I took it to a shop and was going to get new shocks which I think was what is needed. But this 4 wheel drive shop told me that all the tie rod ends are worn, the lower ball joints are lose, the upper ones are OK, and small leak in the front axle seal. He thinks that new shocks will not resolve this. His quote are
$850 for parts and $850 for labor to replace 4 tie rod ends, replace 2 sets of upper ball joints, and 2 lower ball joints, fix front axle seal and front wheel alignment. Do you guys think that his diagnosis is right and his quote is about right?


Thank you so much.
 
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Old 11-30-2014, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by towme
I have an 05 F-250 which I bought used about 3.5 years ago with a 6-in lift kit and 33" tires. A few days ago I took a 400-mile trip and every time I hit a bump on the freeway the front axle vibrated violently and caused the steering wheel to also vibrate badly. I had to hit the brake to slow way down to kill it.


I got a letter from Ford last year stating that this is called shimmy and that it's normal for 4WD solid front axle trucks. Ford said that one could improve by proper tire inflation and not to install lift kit. Well, this issue didn't happen very much for the first couple of years that I own it, but now it seems to get worse. So I took it to a shop and was going to get new shocks which I think was what is needed. But this 4 wheel drive shop told me that all the tie rod ends are worn, the lower ball joints are lose, the upper ones are OK, and small leak in the front axle seal. He thinks that new shocks will not resolve this. His quote are
$850 for parts and $850 for labor to replace 4 tie rod ends, replace 2 sets of upper ball joints, and 2 lower ball joints, fix front axle seal and front wheel alignment. Do you guys think that his diagnosis is right and his quote is about right?


Thank you so much.
Its very possible as the lift and larger wheels add stress to the steering linkage and suspension components, but the item that is more likely to cause the death wobble and isn't mentioned is the trackbar bushing and ball joint, having lose steering linkage and worn suspension components wont help.
Now as far as price goes sticker shock is a huge motivator for me so if you are mechanically inclined and have done this type of work before I think you should do it yourself. If not, considering the amount of work involved the price doesn't seem that bad.
 
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Old 11-30-2014, 05:43 PM
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Thanks for your feedback, Brett. Yes, the mechanic said that there are 2 ball joints per front wheel. The top ones are OK but the lower ones are loose. So he thought that both should be replaced.
 
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Old 11-30-2014, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by towme
Thanks for your feedback, Brett. Yes, the mechanic said that there are 2 ball joints per front wheel. The top ones are OK but the lower ones are loose. So he thought that both should be replaced.
Cheaper to replace them all while it's apart than to come back in 10 or 20,000 miles and pay for the labor again. Make sure the the replacement joints have grease zerks.
 
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Old 11-30-2014, 06:11 PM
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Seems pretty high for the parts. Ball joints are about $40 each. Seal is $70, some o-rings and a few odds and ends... Check the price of parts on line, maybe you can save a few bucks by providing the parts. Buy them from Advance Auto, use TRT30 for a coupon code and save 30% on parts. Bust up the purchases so you don't go over $150 each time, use coupon and save 30% or $50 each time. Doing the job yourself would save a bunch, borrow the tool at advanced and do it in one day. Drive it down for an alignment.
 
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Old 11-30-2014, 06:28 PM
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Don't take parts to a mechanic and expect them to just put them in. They may either refuse to install parts they didn't provide (since they dont make any profit on the parts) or may refuse to warranty their work on parts they didn't provide.

Also, if you didn't know there were two ball joints per side up front, you probably shouldn't try to figure out how to change them all by yourself. If you have a knowledgeable friend and the right tools, go for it, but don't risk the safety of other roadgoers over a few hundred bucks and a gamble.
 
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Old 11-30-2014, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by towme
Thanks for your feedback, Brett. Yes, the mechanic said that there are 2 ball joints per front wheel. The top ones are OK but the lower ones are loose. So he thought that both should be replaced.
I agree with this, there is no way I would remove the steering knuckle and only replace one, since you have it apart replace top and bottom
 
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Old 11-30-2014, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mattdoc88
Don't take parts to a mechanic and expect them to just put them in. They may either refuse to install parts they didn't provide (since they dont make any profit on the parts) or may refuse to warranty their work on parts they didn't provide. Also, if you didn't know there were two ball joints per side up front, you probably shouldn't try to figure out how to change them all by yourself. If you have a knowledgeable friend and the right tools, go for it, but don't risk the safety of other roadgoers over a few hundred bucks and a gamble.
I've never had shop refuse to replace parts because they didn't order them with their upgraded price they charge. If they do that I would look at another shop. Everyone had to learn, Lots of Good info on this site and the net to help you with a lot of repairs. But if you don't have the tools then it's pretty hard
 
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Old 11-30-2014, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Iaff113
I've never had shop refuse to replace parts because they didn't order them with their upgraded price they charge. If they do that I would look at another shop. Everyone had to learn, Lots of Good info on this site and the net to help you with a lot of repairs. But if you don't have the tools then it's pretty hard

4 ft cheater bar is a plus

2006 F350 4X4
 
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:23 PM
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Thank you so much for the great feedbacks. I wish I could do all this myself and save lots of money! But there is a definite learning curve for me and time needed to do the job. I probably have the bite the bullet and let the shop do it and see if the shimmy will go away.
 
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:51 PM
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When you start to Order parts or have a shop order make sure to add Alignment Cams and have them installed when the Ball Joint go in. the Stock cams wont Align the front wheels forward or back even.
 
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Old 12-02-2014, 12:56 PM
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Thanks, 04badford. I will ask them about the alingment cams for sure!
 
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Old 12-02-2014, 06:42 PM
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Some trucks need this and some don't, it still wouldn't hurt to add them because they go on when ball joint are In stalled
Alignment Cams=2004 2x procomp # EXT 594
Alignment Cams= 2005-2015 4x4 procomp # EXP 599
 
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Old 12-02-2014, 09:21 PM
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Thank you again, 04badford. I called the shop and they said they don't think that the truck will need the alignment cams, but I will double check again. I wonder if the alignment cams will help to keep the front axle alignment in place better than without.
 
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Old 12-03-2014, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by towme
Thank you again, 04badford. I called the shop and they said they don't think that the truck will need the alignment cams, but I will double check again. I wonder if the alignment cams will help to keep the front axle alignment in place better than without.
They give about 3 different Adjustments for the tires to be even from front to back, ford don't have this option, so if the truck is pulling say right the cam is adjusted tire forward and to try to even up the two front , then tie rods ends and Alignment starts.
 


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