To address the question of replacing both, unless money is obscenely tight I'd highly recommend it. If one is bad, the other may not be far behind. Plus you'll have the driveshaft out anyways so it makes sense. If they have zerk fittings, it's good practice to roll underneath and squirt em up every month, along with every other fitting (don't forget the front axle and related components) you can find.

As previously mentioned it's possible to do solo, but if you've never done it before a friend definitely helps - it can be frustrating trying to hold everything still while cranking on the joints to pop them out. In the past I've had good success using a beefy C-clamp and two sockets, however that was on well maintained vehicles and it wasn't the first time the joints had been replaced. Old joints can get frozen in there and will take a seemingly obscene amount of pressure to bust loose, sounding like a gunshot when they do sometimes. Basically you use one socket that's smaller than the cap diameter as the driver, and another socket that's larger than the cap (internal socket diameter) on the other side so the cap on that end can press out. Otherwise it gets sandwiched by the C-clamp and won't go anywhere.

YouTube has a ton of videos on how to replace a plethora of different u-joints.

Just be glad they aren't locked in with the nylon plastic crap. Those were a bitch and a half to replace on the Chevelle, ugh.

 

Thanks I'll try that Ben!

 

Hope it helps! Be sure to let us know.

 

Absolutely agree about doing both u-joints at the same time.

 

Since you don't have the right tools at home I'd actually suggest taking the removed driveshaft to a locally equipped garage. With a press you're looking at about 5 minutes tops to have the old ones removed and new ones installed. Also, VERY IMPORTANT. If the rear attachment of the driveshaft is via two straps to the rear pinion you'll want to make sure you don't let the u-joint endcaps fall off and lose anything. A bit of tape run in about 2 passes across the face of the joint should hold them in place until you're ready to install the assembly.

Your better off getting a garage that knows what their doing to remove the u-joints than attempting to jury-rig removal. Cracking/bending/stressing the driveshaft is a good way to have future worse problems.

One other thing to check while your under your Ex are the transmission and transfer case mounts. If a mount is going bad it will show up during heavy shift loads. Most modern mounts have built in safety features to the mounts to keep things from totally breaking loose, but replacing them is necessary if you have one going bad.

 

Although the BFH method isn't the preferred way to change out U-Joints, It is a skill that everyone should learn if you get the chance. It may save you some heartache one day while traveling. As mentioned earlier, do not miss and hit the yolk! I've done so many this way that it's second nature. Knock on wood, I haven't destroyed anything yet. The look on some peoples faces when they see you doing the BFH method is priceless...lol.

 

Well with it being below freezing out and not having the right tools I took the excursion in and new front and back u joints put on, cost $122 for everything and now it drives like new thanks everyone for the help I really appreciate it...

 

Glad that worked out for you. You don't want to drive around with bad U-joints or you could be walking home in that below freezing weather!

 

Glad to hear you got it taken care of!