Find the work gloves to go get fence posts, saddle up and press the starter button, I get a thunk a whirr then nothing. Wont start. Investigation starts at battery, solenoid then starter. Battery cables are not bueno. Replace. Solenoid, same. Remove starter to solenoid cable... really not bueno. Remove starter find pinion gear in two pieces and missing a tooth. Bendix is really shot. Ok. Can replace it... no big deal.
Question: The solenoid to starter cable is a big ol 2 ga. rascal... about $12 to have one made. My battery cable to solenoid is 4 ga. This was how it was set up originally. Do I need the 2 ga. from solenoid to starter or can I use a 4 ga? In other words, is there a reason for the larger wire? I'm not looking to just get by... am curious as to why it was set up this way. Thanks. Himmelberg

 

Just guessing I would think the old 6 volt system need more amps, thus the bigger cable. Are you still running 6 volts? Maybe others will know the real answer.

 

Am a 12 volter... the old solenoid was 6v. Think you nailed it. Thanks, Tom.

 

Washed the truck, attach the bunting, load the kids, neighborhood 4th of July parade is about to start, thunk, whirrrrr, everybody out to jump start this beast! (And don't let it die during the parade.) Same busted bendix and chipped teeth.

Are you still running the 6V starter? If so, I think you need the heavier cables.
Johann.

 

Johann... the block is a '60 model 292 and I assume that the starter came with the block. I suspect that my recent vapor lock problems had me pushing the starter button more than the old timer was up to... and it had reached the end of its life. I am finding it risky to assume anything about my truck... it has the extraordinary high tech tailpipe carb from MOPAR. Glancing about we find that companies pentagon logo on the radiator. It runs an unknown variant alternator and big ol rams horn manifold. It HAD an early (pre 57) distributor and of course it is a 12v system now.
I guess my question is ... if the cable from battery to solenoid is 4ga... shouldn't the cable from solenoid to starter be the same? I would assume both 2ga. Himmelberg

 

Peter, your deduction about the cable gage is pretty much correct - except. The real issue is the total resistance of the connection between one end of the cable and the other. That depends on three things, the wire size, it's length, and it's condition.

Assuming that we're talking about a couple of cables in relatively good condition ( ), the total resistance is a function of the length and the inverse of the square of the diameter. Double the length - double the total resistance. Double the diameter, cut the total resistance by four.

Soooo, if the 4 gage cable is shorter than the 2 gage cable, their total resistance might be comparable. I know you are on the ultimate budget so here's a low-buck suggestion:

1. Go to a local welding supply place and ask 'em for a few feet of 2 gage cable
2. Stop by your favorite hardware store and get a couple of copper unions for 3/8" sweated (soldered) joints
3. Cut and strip the cable ends so they go about halfway into the copper unions (make sure the unions and cable ends are clean)
4. Put each cable end in a union and crimp the union as flat as possible over the cable in a vise
5. Use a propane torch to solder the cable ends solidly into the unions
6. Drill holes in the ends of the flattened unions opposite the cables so you can make your bolted connections
7. Pretty up the ends if you want with a file or sander

You know, every time you add some bizarre (but totally workable) fix to your truck, it becomes further embedded in the annals of Ameracana. I see a movie here, "The Truck That Wouldn't Die." Hope it doesn't turn out to be a horror flick.

 

Now we're doing something! Thanks again, George. While I am waiting on the bendix I "won" on ebay ($5) I have something worthwhile to do on the truck. Have patched and painted the firewall, filled some holes in my hood and on the dash... designed the logo for my summertime self employment... mmmm, do I want to paint it on the doors of my truck?
My knowledge base grows with each response from you guys. Many thanks, George. Best. Himmelberg

 

#2 copper has a resistance of 0.194 ohms per 1000', while #4 has 0.308 per 1000'. Although that's 50% higher resistance, any voltage drop you get in the conductor is neglegble compared to the drop through the connections. 5' of #4 would drop 0.4V when cranking 250amps. Make sure the connections are clean and tight.

Great and cheap cable solution, George. Also, I love the picture on you gallery, Himmelberg, of your truck and the longhorns.
J

 

I'm a little nervous here, Peter. I can't tell if I irritated you with a dumb suggestion, if this is an example of your wry (and much appreciated, BTW) humor, or ???

I never know what I'll get when I open a thread - it's like Christmas ... or is that a box of chocolates?

Now, where are those pictures of the generator and starter rebuilds for Earl's World ...

 

Relax, George. I appreciate your suggestions more than you know. While the truck is down I have enjoyed the tinkering aspects of truckdom... however, it is my daily ride so there is a certain amount of urgency underlying all of this. Can't go get fenceposts in the Lincoln. Then, too, conserving the little bit of money I have for the truck is important to me. Eighteen inches of 2ga solenoid to starter cable runs $12-14 bucks around here. Your suggestion will make it far more reasonable. Thanks. Peter

 

You know guys, I am always amazed at the great storehouse of knowledge to be mined here. I have printed the cable fix and put it into the notebook I started for all these handy hints. Just hope the local papermill can keep up with the good folks here

Thanks to all

Steve