Howdy,
I come from long line of Chevy men, but I am looking at a 1981 Bronco for $500. The ad says "needs work" and the owner is telling everyone who calls that it needs a crankshaft. After dropping another battery in it, and some fuel in the carb, it started right up, but it smokes. He says it only smoke for a few blocks, abd then stops. Sounds like valve seals to me.

Also, he says it has a 351 modified to a 400. Is that just a rebuilt 351 that's been bored?

Interior's in decent shape, only leaks under the truck are from the power steering, tranny sounds and shifts fine. There are some minor things wrong, bad side window motors/ regs, and maybe a windshield wiper motor. The body's fairly straight.

Does it sound like it's worth fooling with?

 

If the body's straight and rust free (look REALLY close at the rear fenders and wheel arches,) $500 could get you a good starter truck. The early '80's Bronco's are really prone to rust though, check it thoroughly.

The 351 to 400 modification is pretty common. If it's done like a normal change, they used a 400 crank and pistons in the 351 block. The factory did it that way, too.

In my experience, the TTB front is another major potential problem. However, they're pretty easy to fix, just a few bushings. My Bronco also had a stripped slip joint in the passenger side front axle. Be sure to check the 4 wheel drive system thoroughly, preferably on pavement so you can load the driveline pretty hard.

Parts are plentiful and relatively cheap for these trucks. If you don't mind tinkering, you could get a good deal with one that has a solid body. They also have all the good 4-wheeling parts already installed. Even the TTB works very well for trail riding and moderately tough stuff.

 

Don't drive in 4X4 on dry pavement, unless you are going to buy it and plan on replacing the transfer case. They aren't designed for dry pavement use. Yes, check it out, but find some dirt you can do it in.

 

Doesn't hurt 'em a bit to do a couple tight turns in forward and reverse on dry pavement. I check ALL 4X4's I'm looking at this way and have been doing it for years. If they don't pass this test, I aint interested. Doing these tests in dirt won't always reveal marginal components, and dirt is'nt always readily available.

You don't want to run down the highway in four wheel drive, or even drive around the block, but these tests won't hurt a thing.

Just to clarify, the tests you want to do are hard left and right turns in forward and reverse. Make sure the hubs are locked and the transfer case is in 4 wheel drive. Turn the tires and move slowly. What you are looking for is the truck should buck and jump noticeably and the tires should chirp or skid. You only need to drive about 20 feet for each test. The test will feel violent, but that's expected. If you don't get bucking and jumping, or if you hear a lot of popping and snapping, things are broke. The last test you want to do is to verify the transfer case low range is working. With the vehicle pointed straight ahead and the tires straight, pull the transfer case into low range and verify the vehicle is slower. It will be a LOT slower (2.7:1 low range.) Check neutral before you call things good. When driving in low range, it is normal to hear a lot of gear whine, but the sound should be smooth, not choppy or full of snaps and pops.

 

Allright. I give up. What is the "TTB" front. I can't find anything about it.

And does the smoking sound like the valve seats to ya'll?

It looks fairly rust free, and I grew up on the coast so that is the FIRST thing I look at in a car. I'm always surprised how rust free vehicles in MS and LA are compared to SC.

Forgive my ignorance. While my father has had trucks all my life, he got his first 4 wheel drive a couple of years ago, and has used the 4 wheel drive in it once.

And thanks for the tips on checking out the tranny.

I'll probably get it, since I'm aching for something to tinker on. I left my '81 camaro in SC, so now I'm without a project until I go get it, and I figure an old Bronco project would be fun, and give me something to pull that back here with.

Thanks guys, I'm sure you'll hear much more from me.

 

TTB is Twin Traction Beam. It's Ford's name for the independent front suspension on these 4X4 trucks. The 2 wheel drives were called Twin I Beam or TIB.