I changed out my starter and replaced the ground wire from the battery.
I replaced both the EEC and the fuel pump relays.
My motor cranks great. The check engine light is not lit and I am sure it is not blown out. I have no voltage at the inline fuel pump. I am going to get a code reader on Friday.
I am not a mechanic. I seldom use this van and it sits most of the time but
it was always reliable. Until I get codes, I just thought I would see if any one has any advice. It will run with starter fluid. The inertia switch is not tripped.
I do not hear either fuel pump run at any time. I'm lost and need to use this van soon. Thanks.

 

You answer your own question here---no voltage to the fuel pump is the problem you need to resolve first.

While changing relays and checking fuses is merely the first step its quite possible wiring to the fuel pump connector has become damaged. In fact I had an '88 E150 that without warning failed on the freeway from this same condition.

Without offense if you're not adept at auto repairs this sort of thing isn't the easiest to effect. I don't want to discourage your attempt but be aware what's ahead of you.

FWIW once my '88 E150 was at the shop total cost was under $200.

 

Thanks JWA,
I don't have the luxury of being discouraged. LOL.
I am just killing time until I can get the reader on Friday.
Here's a question. If the check engine light and the no voltage to the fuel
pumps was caused by the same damage or disconnection, would that be a clue to the problem? I am going to try and trace the wiring from the fuel pumps back to the starter relay. What should the voltage be?
The wiring on this beast is a nightmare. But I have no choice but to get this running. Thanks.

 

I'm not overly familiar with that year's OBD strategies so can't speak specifically to your question. I will say the CEL and loss of voltage to the fuel pump probably has no correlation. IIRC when my fuel pump lost power the CEL did not illuminate.

I will add the dash-mounted lighter plug was defective but that was probably just the physical plug itself, voltage would have still be present. I cite this only because on the later years with OBD-II no power at that plug's connections would typically mean the OBD-II connection wouldn't reveal any codes because a connected scanner couldn't access the PCM.

My WAG is no power to the fuel pump is caused by a break in the actual wiring leading from the fuse/relay block back to the chassis side connector. Further speculation would be this suspected break would be close to that very plug.

Its also possible the wiring leading out of the fuse/relay block is at issue too. Following the appropriate schematic I'd do continuity tests for each pump relay terminal inside that block back to the chassis-side connector. This would give some indication if the block or its terminals are at fault of if the wiring has been damaged somewhere along that path.

Age alone can cause these sorts of issues---that was the problem with my E150. The connector had simply fallen apart due time since new.

AutoZone has free downloadable schematics---give them a shot for something free and quick.

HTH

 

Hi houseald,
I'm headed out the door but here's a quick scan of the fuse panel diagram from my '88 Clubwagon.

Also, the selftest connector has a fuel pump on connection to run the pumps when grounded.

jim

 

Yes it would be.
Note if the CEL will not come on with the key then the code reader will not work either.

Make sure the small black wire with a green stripe has a good connection at the NEG post of the battery.

Also check to see if the EEC Power relay is closing when you turn on the key and the red wire from the EEC Power relay (the one with a brown bottom) has power on it with the key on with a loading test light.
If not check to see if the yellow wire to the relay has power on it at all times.

If you have a good ground at the battery with the small black wire with a green stripe,
and the red wire is hot at EEC Power relay (note this red wire also runs to all of the fuel injectors),
then it sounds like you have a bad EEC Computer that is located inside the van on the passenger side under the heater box.

More or less battery voltage.

But you can just ground pin #6 of the self-test plug and turn on the key to test the wiring to the pumps and see if they will run OK.

Location of pin #6:


Location of the self-test plug also called the Data Link Connector:

Locaction of the EEC Power realy and the fuel pump relay:


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OK. I tested the black wire with the green stripe. I only have a voltmeter. So I connected the red to battery and probe the wire. It is at 12.5 volts. I also checked the wire down the line where it splits into 3 or 4 wires. I get the same 12.5 volt reading.
The EEC power relay is closing when I turn on the key. The red wire at the EEC reads 12.5 volts when I probe it with the red of my meter with the Black grounded at the battery. I don't have a yellow wire at the EEC relay but I tested the yellow wire on the fuel relay and that was also 12.5 volts. Do these tests sound right to you?
I grounded the #6 pin and turned the key. The inline pump works fine and I have not yet tested the in tank pump. I will tomorrow when I have a helper.

 

The voltages sound right. If the high pressure fuel pump on the frame and the selected in tank fuel pump runs with pin #6 grounded and they do not run for one second each time the key is turned to the run position then you have more than likely a bad EEC Computer. Open it up and take a look at the capacitors to see if the electrolytic capacitors are bulging or leaking. If they are leaking see if the acid has ate through any traces on the board.

Note the fuel pumps will only have power to them on for one second each time the key is turned on.

I see now you do not have a yellow wire at either relay like the F-series does. So replace the yellow wire with a black wire with a orange stripe in my post above. When you say you have power on the yellow wire I take it was the tan wire with a green stripe. 12V on this wire says the EEC Computer is not grounding that wire to turn on the fuel pumps at this time.



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Thank you all who replied. I walked through the advice you gave and learned a lot. With your help I was able to determine that it was in fact the EEC.
I changed it out and the van now runs very well. Thanks again.