Well, engine (148k) is off my 2004 F350 and on stand. I have not had a blown head gasket, oil or EGR cooler rupture, or even high delta temp, but still want to do as much as possible to prevent future problems.

So far I have planned for and purchased:

- APR studs and OEM head gaskets
- Fel-Pro valve cover, intake and exhaust gaskets
- EGR delete
- coolant flush with Restore and Restore +
- OEM thermostat
- OEM oil cooler
- updated OEM turbo feed and drain tubes, new hardware
- oil pan, lower and upper gasket
- OEM injector orings
- alternators (duals), pigtails, all pulleys and belts
- new batteries
- blue spring mod
- fan clutch
- gpcm and both bus bars
- OEM camshaft position sensor
- OEM IPR screen
- OEM fuel filters, oil filters
- rotella t6 5w-40 and archoil
- ELC Ultra refill

Other non-engine related:
- new style HFCM plug
- bypass oil and coolant filters
- tranny filters, pan gasket and fluid
- new tranny cooler
- new hubs and lockouts

Time for questions:

1. What else should I do while I have it on engine stand?
2. Any good write-ups on cleaning/refreshing the turbo and injectors?
3. With EGR delete, assuming EGR valve stays in (new orings) and stays hooked up (to maintain the fan speed?) - will it throw the code?
4. Any additional concerns/advice?

Thanks!

 

1. What else should I do while I have it on engine stand?

Make sure the bedplate isn't leaking, the only way to do the repair is to pull the engine.

2. Any good write-ups on cleaning/refreshing the turbo and injectors?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...0-vgturbo.html

The reseal kit for the injectors come with detailed instructions.

 

Might be a good time to get the Y-pipe "upgraded" since the flex-joints tend to leak and are a PITA to get out with the engine installed.. A member on FTE offers this service, and since yours is already accessible NOW is the time..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...pe-repair.html

 

reading the Mishimoto thermostat thread looks like they are getting an extra 1-2mpg with that stat and the unit for about $50. That's cheaper than the Ford unit at $69. If your thinking of the EGT gauge at any time, now would be it while the manifold is easy to get to.

 

Wow, thermostat adding 1-2mpg? Already have new Motorcraft part, but will look into Mishimoto. Any idea if it does that magic only for 6.0?

Y pipe is really solid, but if parts are not crazy $$$, might be worth doing. Maybe I should pressure test it first.

Regarding comments on the list I got:
- what's wrong with Fel-Pro valve cover, intake and exhaust gaskets?
- what's wrong with Fel-Pro upper and lower oil pan gaskets?
- Motorcraft injector oring kit is 4 piece per injector, so I thought it's complete.
- I built my own coolant and oil filtration systems, frame mounted (since I have dual alts). Both use baldwin bases. Baldwin bypass oil filter and Donaldson bypass coolant filter. Billet caps and some expensive braided teflon hose for oil.
- new tranny cooler since the old one snapped a fitting during removal.
- CMS and clutch fan were throwing a code

 

The Mishimoto worked wonders for my truck, especially on winter fuel. I went from 14 mpg on winter fuel to 16 mpg.

Worth every Penny, especially with the lifetime warranty.

 

Definitely has my interest. Part # and best place to get it?
Have you tried this brand on another vehicle?

 

Happy Reading

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14759018

 

As the the egr Delete throwing a code.. it will. Mine just did and I did my delete 1 day ago. You do want to leave the valve in and plugged in. You will need a stc tuner to keep the egr light off. Sct x4 or the livewire will work.

I see your replacing the belt. I would go with a gates belt from napa.

I also did the mishimoto radiator and thermostat. It's worth the money.

 

Lots of work but since you are going to have the Aliant kit and the injectors out.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1283601-injector-stiction-fix-lots-of-labor-but-works-great.html

Check your balljoints and axle u joints out well while it's all aparts. Otherwise you will be pulling them again to replace them.

Make sure to send the heads off to be checked over. Even tho you don't currently notice any problems never ever take a head off and just put it back on without having it checked.

Might as well do a water pump while your down to it.
Stand pipes and dummy plugs since your pulling the oil rails anyway.
Since it is an 04 which have been known to have a weaker HPOP. It's a $$$$ part and not to bad to reach with the engine in the truck but you will have great access with everything is off.
Nipple cup o rings while the oil rails are off.
LPOL regulator
Updated banjo bolts

Heck we can spend all kinds of your money lol!!

 

I would do lifters while your there. At the shop I rebuild 2-3 of these motors a month, almost 90% of them is due to lifter failure. In fact we have 3 of them in the shop right now getting overhauled for this exact reason.

 

The updated pushrods are 0.050 shorter as well... wonder why?

 

Lot's of good advice posted.

As previously stated, check the bedplate for leaks.

If it were my engine on the stand, I would reseal the bedplate; however, if you opt not to do the bedplate, I would definitely reseal the upper oil pan to the bedplate, and the lower oil pan to the upper pan.

My truck has a slight leak at the upper pan / bedplate interface.

Happy Wrenching!

 

1. OK, OEM thermostat returned. Hot Mishimoto on order. $50 shipped, so not horrid.

2. No bedplate to block leaks. Pan is toast and there is a small leak from upper gasket (just like Carolina Rig's), so she's getting both upper and lower gaskets and oil pan.

3. Heads will be checked by my machine shop guy. Understand I can safely shave 5-thousands.

4. Will check lifters. How complex is the replacement, parts $?

5. She did have cold start problems, but when started she was running like a champ. No puffing or surging, just very little white smoke. Not sure if it's stiction or glow plug related. New GPCM helped a bit. On engine removal, GP bus bars literally fell apart. So that might be it. Still planning on using Archoil. Not sure if I should spend all that time rebuilding injectors at this point, vs doing them if everything else fails.

6. No dummy plugs on 2004, as far as I can tell. Planning on doing standpipes.

7. What is LPOL regulator? Low Pressire Oil Line?

8. Read a ton on banjo bolts and it looks like all hype and actually might hurt the 6.0. They come from completely different application on 6.4. Doing just blue spring mod.

9. I am $4k in parts into this, so don't tell me about spending money, LOL.

10. Got 2 Gatorback belts. Always had luck with them on everything I drive.

11. If I end up messing with radiator, besides the flush, I will consider Mishimoto. Not sure about $$$. I am bleeding here.

12. Are you positive on EGR delete throwing a code? I think I read recently it might not do so on 03's and 04's. I plan on leaving it in place, plugged in.

13. Asked that in another thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-truck.html , but I am still looking for ways to do a proper cooling system flush, with or without oil cooler installed. Rad and heater core will be flushed on their own, so no concerns there. I really don't want to install oil cooler twice...

Thanks everybody!