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95 E250 Wiper Motor Replacement

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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 10:20 PM
  #1  
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95 E250 Wiper Motor Replacement

I have a 95 E250 whose wiper motor needs replacing. I have it down to where the motor is visible and the three fasteners are out. There's a connection to the wiper linkage I can't get my head around - either how it is connected (motor to linkage) or how to get on it to unfasten. Any help please?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 07:44 AM
  #2  
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Been a few years since I've done one of these, but if I remember,
there is a "C" clip that slide over the linkage on the pin from the pittman arm.
Prying/sliding that off, releases the linkage.

That motor is fitted in there so tight, you will have a hard time getting it worked out of it's little "housing"

Also, while your in there, check the fluid lines for the washers, I remember replacing the lines to get rid of leaks and dry rotted 20+ year old rubber.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 08:07 AM
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Thanks for the reply Wildman25. I can see the clip you refer to. It has 5 tabs that wrap up and over 'sandwiching' the linkage and motor assembly together. This is going to be a huge challenge getting the motor free of the linkage.

Actually, I think removing the motor is the least of my worries as it compares to getting it released from the linkage. I'll see about uploading a picture later - just to illustrate.

Thanks for the idea of checking those fluid lines - no doubt there's plenty of rot going on.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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Hurrayyy!!! The motor is out. I have to admit it wouldn't be done already without the help of my wife. Her little hands were able to get in those tight spots and we kinda teamed up from each side. I had a long screwdriver manipulating the 'release' and she was backing the 'c' clamp out.

I am unable to get any movement on the pitman arm, seems it is frozen solid - although I don't know what kind of pressure it takes to get the motor to rotate (spin).

I'm no electrical genius, know enough to get in trouble. Using my multimeter I found 11.6 volts through terminals 1 and 3 from the left.



Any comments regarding my electrical test or my assessment of the motor condition? I guess I'll be shopping for a new motor now. I appreciate you folks being here.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 08:36 PM
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Glad to hear you got the motor out

The arm might not move because of the very low gear box and the resistance of the electrical motor.

I know that in the '94 I changed out, I was having "odd" problems with the wipers not turning off, kept running, and sometimes not working at all.

After changing out the multi-switch, I narrowed it down to the motor, and changed that out, and solved all the problems thinking there was a "bug" in the electrical system of the motor itself.

There really not that expensive, but I know there were 2 different connectors used them years. Rockauto.com, Amazon, or ebay are good places to look, unless you need one quick, then it's off to the parts store.

I just checked Rockauto, Motorcraft for under $30 on a close-out........hurry, only 10 left........
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildman25
Glad to hear you got the motor out

The arm might not move because of the very low gear box and the resistance of the electrical motor.

I know that in the '94 I changed out, I was having "odd" problems with the wipers not turning off, kept running, and sometimes not working at all.
I was thinking the same re the low geared box but I really 'stood' on it and not a budge. My wiper symptoms were that a snail could have won a race across the windshield - they were so slow. Then the last check they didn't move at all. I'm counting on the motor being the problem.

Originally Posted by Wildman25
After changing out the multi-switch, I narrowed it down to the motor, and changed that out, and solved all the problems thinking there was a "bug" in the electrical system of the motor itself.

There really not that expensive, but I know there were 2 different connectors used them years. Rockauto.com, Amazon, or ebay are good places to look, unless you need one quick, then it's off to the parts store.

I just checked Rockauto, Motorcraft for under $30 on a close-out........hurry, only 10 left........
Like I said, I'm hoping it's the motor and at $30 it''s not much of a risk. Since it's Sunday night already, think I'll check locally tomorrow and go from there depending on what they want for one. I appreciate your feedback.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 06:31 AM
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Generally................

-As a suggestion if you'll be doing your own electrical work invest in a gently used EVTM specific to your van's year, those are also called wiring diagrams books or schematics----its one very wise addition to the tool box.

-After measuring voltage at the connector immediately check battery voltage directly on its terminals---they should be very close to on another within 0.5 volts delta.

-The motor not turning under simple hand pressure would be correct. If the gear box is still attached you'll never be able to turn the output shaft due the gear arrangement essentially being reversed from the intended design.

-Any wiper system that won't park properly has a failed or failing motor---most modern day wiper motors have the needed switch inside the motor so its not serviceable separately.

Wildman's find of a $30 Motorcraft replacement motor is outstanding--I paid more for a junk AutoZone et al a few years ago!
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 08:25 AM
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JWA -

Thank you for the additional info, it's all well considered. With your comments I'm further encouraged.

My claim to fame is as a remodeling contractor and usually leave any mechanical work to my mechanic. I've found myself unemployed and with an 'old' van that I have recently invested too much money in, more than it is worth and it still needs more beyond the wipers. The van served me well for about 15 years. Don't mean to be 'singing the blues', just a dimes worth of what's up here.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 08:32 AM
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Man........I understand your dilemma more than most........
Been in commercial construction for...........ever........

I've had several vans that I kept on the road and "invested" more that the vehicle was worth.

But.........I've always looked at it, that repairs were much less than a monthly coupon book

And........without the work van.......I can't make any money

I just got done "re-building" a '92 cube van, new tranny, new engine, plus other items, and what I paid for the van 2 years ago, it has the "box" that I need for my work, the mileage was very low, (104K) but with drive train problems, and figuring what my investment was, if I keep this for 3 years, it's costing me less than a $100 per month to own.
Yes, I'll still have routine maintenance, but that's expected on anything.

I've found out years ago, that a lot of mechanics do not want to work on vans, and after over paying for routine maintenance items, like $325 for a simple plug/wire change, that would take them 3 days to do, I went back to doing my own wrenching, and the same would cost $80 max for parts, and 5-6 hours of time, thus, money in my pocket

Plus........I got to know the vehicle, and when a problem came up, it was easy to resolve.

So, join the crowd here, and learn, and do your own wrenching, and enjoy the busted knuckle here and there, and then you can sit back and reap the benefit of 'fixing it yourself' and help others
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 09:07 AM
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I've been wrenching my own stuff for years now too---begin as a cheaper way but these days has become more of a defense against dealing with those who are clueless or incompetent about so many mechanical things these days.

There's little I can't or won't do unless its over my head technically or specialized equipment is required. The money I've saved just in the past 10 years could probably buy another gently-used van and I'm not the least bit ashamed of that.

Of course if something major pops up and time is more important than money I'm very fortunate in knowing a good number of qualified mechanics that free lance or shops with stellar reputations I can turn to. Those of us working out of our vans understand this; making a few dollars a day is much, much better than making nothing at all.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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I appreciate both of your replies regarding doing your own work. My wife is laughing at me (good naturedly) because I also talk about how I'm so 'not' mechanically inclined and here I am digging in to this project. It may be a relatively minor project for most but it's a lot for me.

Having this forum to come to is a big help even if all I get is encouragement and I've gotten more than that - so thank you.

My mechanic wanted over $300 for this job and so far it's cost a $40 motor (with shipping) and a few hours of 'head scratching'. The last job he did for me was a complete tune up that was over $600 and he has an EGR valve and tube on the list to do yet - I think that estimate is another $300+. I need to pick up the estimates he has so I know more about what he found and intends to do if/when I turn the van over to him.

I'm really 'tool poor' aside from some sockets and open ends - I do know how to get creative though when it comes figuring how to do things. It's nice to have those extra bucks in my pocket.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 08:23 PM
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Well.........you'll have to look at it this way too.........

The more you save on doing your own repairs, the more you'll see what tools you'll need to do the job quicker, and that money that's burning the hole in your pocket, that you saved in DIY repairs will be invested in the tools

Check (search) around here too, the EGR valve can be cleaned, thus saving $70-$99 for the valve. The EGR sensor can not, and that runs about $15 - $28 and up to $76, if you need the sensor. Tube around $26.

I've cleaned EGRs, never needed to replace the tube, and have replaced the sensor.........less than a couple of hours, and $26 for parts.

Now, with all your new savings...........Ratchet Wrenches are a good investment, I use mine all the time, and I like the reversible ratchet's the best, which will come very handy in removing that 1/2" nut on the back side of the ERG valve.

Plus, I'm sure you'll find uses for these type wrenches in your day job, I use these on install jobs that we have many bolts to tighten up. Can't always use a impact screw gun on some projects, like with 3/8" all-thread hangers.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 06:38 AM
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Mac just a few random thoughts, some meant to refute that woman's laughter.......

-Tools generally pay for themselves, if not immediately in full then over their life. Too often we're forced paying others who own tools simply because we don't own them. You yourself are a contractor who makes most likely a good living by doing that same thing which is just part of free enterprise. To many other people not motivated to DIY the man with tools is who they need and want---life is good.

-Wildman, me and nearly everyone else here are probably self taught DIY mechanics---we've learned by doing, most of that long before the internerd was a thing. There is massive info available for most any repair we encounter but even so without the motivation to dig into something and make a few mistakes we'd be forced to pay someone to do these smaller jobs.

-I recall my first encounter with Ford's modular motor, a '97 E250 with 5.4 engine. The mass of plumbing and electrical wiring that essentially hid the spark plugs had me scared witless so I hired a friend to do it for me, I watched while it happened. Since then I've done it twice myself and with what I've learned along with info gleaned here on FTE that task is almost laughably easy. The point here is those first looks or impressions can be daunting or deceptive so don't get too discouraged with vehicle repairs.

-Quality tools don't have to cost a lot to be good. While I'm a bit of a tool snob I can afford to be because much of what I use daily already is just as useful for my E250 repairs. SK Tools is but one second tier brand, most products still made in the USA and don't break the bank. In your profession most any tool would be tax deductible----who else knows you DON'T need a set of wrenches in remodeling?

-Two other bits of wisdom passed onto me over time: "We learn by doing........." and "we learn more from our mistakes than our successes.....". Keep those thoughts in mind and learn to love vehicle repairs.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 08:50 AM
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Wildman, JWA - Your words certainly do not fall on deaf ears. I'll take comfort in the thoughts and advice yo share. Just a little FYI and I hope it's not TMI, but I WAS a remodeling contractor. I gave it up a couple years ago for a variety of reasons, physically can no longer do the work myself, can't bear the headaches associated with running payroll and employees again and after 30+ years am just generally burned out. The biggest problem with all that is that through the years I didn't plan well for my future ... hence there isn't any money to have these repairs done anymore. Hindsight is indeed twenty/twenty but it is what it is and I'll make the best of it. I'm at the older end of the scale (62) and that is + and - with all that said, looking for new income.

A guy comes to a forum like this with hope there's some benefit and I must say it's paying off for me. The encouragement and knowledge shared is exactly what I would have hoped for. I'm going to pick up those estimates from the mechanic today so I have a better idea of the repairs needed. The EGR sounds pretty simple - thanks for those words Wildman. So far my tool collection is serving me well. I 'do' have a fair assortment collected over the years, but no doubt will come up against the problem of not having the 'right' tool. As it was said, the money saved in repairs should cover the occasional missing tool.

Happy Thanksgiving. I'll report back with my wiper motor job when the motor arrives.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 01:12 PM
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Well, I'm just now getting around to this wiper motor swap. The new motor is identical to the old motor in every possible way except - one difference is that one is new and one is 'visibly' old.

I have a dilema. The arm that pushes the wiper has a shaft through one end where the wiper motor attaches. The groove on the pin that goes through the shaft doesn't clear the bottom of the shaft - so the 'C' clip can't go on.

I can't figure this out, nothing has changed and the replacement motor is the same as the one that came out. Through the shaft is about 7/8" and the groove for the 'C' clip is about 5/8" down the pin, so it doesn't reveal when I attempt assembly.

I'm baffled. Any ideas please??
 
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