I dropped some coin at RockAuto tonite too.. (Before reading Orich's advice about buying brake stuff local)
2 front drums, 4 wheel cylinders, star adjuster kit, brake shoes, etc.

 

While we're on the topic, what are the BEST brand shoes to use for these things? Do some stand up to heat and perform better than others?

 

I really don't have any real-world evidence as to what specific brand is best because I haven't had to buy brake SHOES for anything in a LONG time. Maybe the cheapest-priced, store-brand, bonded shoes are just as good as any other. However, I'm just not willing to take that chance. I'm looking for an name brand that I recognize, and one that has the braking material riveted, especially on the front. I would definitely like to hear the opinion(s) of someone who has experience with both kinds of shoes.

 

The quality of the shoes is a factor and plays a role, but not taking any shortcuts, too. Care in particular cleaning up grease and oil from new drums for example, and avoiding any contamination of the new shoes with grease during installation.

Thinking I may use the special checkbook tool on the front drums, because the hub needs pressed in the new drums. Yes a BFH works, still.. The rear drums though, overall, should be a bit easier than the front? Should be doable with less swear words.

One thing I wasn't aware of to ensure good braking action is the condition of the backing plate, they wear out too. Be sure to check this. The pads can be mig welded and ground back to spec if necessary versus replacement?

Pretty good video here on front brake service:

 

One thing when you start doing the bleeding your B-system. With a old M/C don't push it all the way to the floor unless it's a new one. Why because settlement in a M/C builds up in area where their not inner movement Right! Right so then when you push the pedal to the Metal floor it's pushing the inner cup/seals into this long time build up of settlement and can cause the inner piston/cup to stick into the settlement.

So now if it this happens it's new M/C time. This do's & don'ts.
Get some white past grease and coat the pads on the backing plates.
This helps keep the shoe pad from squeaking when applying the brakes shoe movement, plus reduces wearing down the backing plate shoe Pads.

And lastly lube the adjusting star threads also with white grease.
Back it all the way out coat threads. keeps it from rusting when it gets wet.
And keeps it working for many yrs..

One man bleeding Open both wheel cyl. bleeders about one-two turn put a rag over & under to catch fluid. Keep M/C full, place lid on master any time you pump the pedal.

I fill M/C with closed bleeders work the pedal slowly trying to get some built up of pedal pressure then open P-side bleeder enough to let air out. If no fluid starts to flow out.

With bleeders open a fast pump once about 1/2 way let up slowly on the pedal.
Now check for fluid & air bubbling out. Then the longer you leave it open the air will self bleed once you have push all the air out of the M/C. Repeat with other wheels.
Until a good high pedal. But make sure the shoes are adjusted up good.
Orich

 

2X Orich on greasing the adjuster and backing plate pads. He beat me to it.
On the shoes I would go with highest quality tier of a name brand. And riveted not bonded. Even though the aftermarket uses the same material for the meat of the pads/shoes for many,many applications,there are different meats between different price tiers(and brands). You get what you pay for. You want them to stop lousy,dust a bunch,sqeak,or wear out fast? Buy cheapies. And why riveted? I would rather hear when they are wearing out. On bonded shoes,when the meat of the shoe is wore out and the last of it disappeared,there is metal to metal ALL the way across the shoe. This will create enough noise and grinding sound that you'll know. But it wears in deep in the drum/rotors Extremelly quick. Your drums/rotors will be junk by the time you drive home.

 

It has taken me a few days to get around to trying to finish this job. I have all the parts collected finally, so I started on it today. When I went to install the new wheel cylinders, I noticed that they look different inside the hole where the hydraulic line hooks up. FYI, I have the short, curvy, flared, steel line that hooks to the back of the cylinder and comes around the top of the kingpin to connect to the end of the brake line. Inside the hole on the old cylinders there is a convex bottom, but inside the hole on the new cylinders, the bottom is concave shaped. I just don't think the flared line will connect and seal. Everything else about the new cylinders looks exactly the same. I wonder what the deal is?

 

Sound like the wrong cylinders to me. may be 4wd or for a later yr.
Hope you got them a loco parts store. So you can take in your old cyl. an show them what's wrong.
orich

 

Allrighty then....here's where I stand. First let me say the new cylinders I bought from O'Reilly's look EXACTLY the same as the old one I took off the truck, EXCEPT for the inlet design. So, the next thing I did was call another store (NAPA), explain my situation to the person I spoke with, and ask them to look at the cylinder they had. The NAPA guy described the one they had exactly as the new ones I bought from O'Reilly's. So, no use in trying to go there. I took my two new cylinders back to O'Reilly's with the intention of getting my money back. The manager was there and he got involved and we looked at several different ones. Eventually, we discovered that the cylinder he had listed for a '73 truck had the correct inlet I needed, and the same bolt hole spacing, so I decided to bring them home and give them a try. I bolted one of them on, but it got too dark and cold out for me to see and still have feeling in my fingers. So, I will try to finish it tomorrow. We shall see where this goes....

 

If they bolted in & the tube nut has the correct seat and cyl. has same size piston bore. You should be good to good.
orich

 

OK, just to close the books on this one....

I brought home two wheel cylinders from O'Reilly's that they listed as '73 2WD (these had the correct hydraulic connection I needed). I already had the driver side started, so I finished it. The so-called '73 wheel cylinder bolted right up and everything appeared to be fine. So, I moved on to the passenger side. When I got the old wheel cylinder unbolted off that side, it actually looked just like the '73s! I actually had two different styles on the truck to start with. No idea how this happened of course, and no way to find out as the PO is deceased. I got it all put back together this afternoon and it seems fine to me. I drove it back and forth a few times close to home to make sure it was working properly. I'll be taking it out in the morning for the real-world application test!

I bet it's been 30 years, or more, since I rebuilt shoe brakes on a vehicle! Glad I had enough gumption left to get it done! Even more glad that I have a great place to come and ask questions and get help....

 

One more thing I meant to add.... It's really a PIA to get to those bleeder valves on the front! Whoever designed that needed to be punched in the snoz. Maybe there is an easier way, a special tool, or something. Other than that, everything went fairly smoothly!