So I started working to change the timing chain on my 05 Expedition EB and forgot to clamp down the pass side cam shaft, so when I remover the chain the phaser and cam shaft twisted to the left a bit.

Though I had it back to the proper lobe (I believe) I turned it by hand , but when I turned over the engine (by hand) the shaft now makes a clunk sound (like a hard turn like there is tension being release) instead of just turning over. I was able to change the driver side chain without issue, so I need "HELP" figuring out how to get the pass side shaft/phaser back to where it is suppose to be without the clunk sound of turning over the engine by hand.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7691102

 

Thanks for the reply back. I guess I am being a little vague about my issue.

I hope this explanation is a bit better. The first time I removed the timing chain I did not have the camshaft held down so it would not move, I was able to turn the camshaft back to the proper position in order for the lobe to be correct. I put everything back on and did a manual rotation of the engine to make sure there were no issues. When I did this instead of the exhaust sound being made the entire 360 degrees the cam shaft seemed to have tension and made a hard clunk sound when.

So of course my first though was that it was not in the proper time, however being a dumb dumb I did not set the time back to TDC before removing everything, once everything was removed I took the tensioners and guides off and then removed the chain again like a complete moron, so now the camshaft rotated again and the engine is/was not in TDC.

So my question is, How do I get the engine in TDC and the correct lobe?

Do I just put the chain back on and turn the engine over by hand until TDC and hope that the pass side camshaft lobe is in the correct position (or is there a certain way to get the rest of the engine in time (pistions and what not) and then get the camsahft timing correct)?

If this is all correct would I follow this information How To Remove/Replace/Inspect/Install A Camshaft Phaser Sprocket On A Ford/Lincoln Navigator/Mercury Mountaineer For Engine Variable Valve Timing « AutoRepairInstructions.com

I am trying to not break or destroy a head, piston or anything else inside the engine. I am just looking for a CLEAR understanding on HOW to get both the engine in time along with the camshaft so that I can put the chains on correctly and get the Expedition back up and running while it is still warm.

Thanks again!

 

Read my posts in this thread, thread and pull the cam out before you turn the engine any more so all the valves will be closed. I detailed cam removal and installation herethread Check and double check both cams are in proper time with the crank. One tooth off and you will get cam sensor codes.

 

Ok,

1. Do I need to remove any of the rollers/followers before I loosen the camshaft for removal?
2. Once the camshaft is removed do I need to remove the driver side one as well?
3. Once removed do I then put the HB back on and rotate the engine by hand to TDC or put the key at 12o'clock?
4.With the engine at TDC or 12o'clock how do I tell that the engine is in the proper position to where when I put the camshfts back in the lobe(s) will be in thier correct position?

Thanks again.

 

Isn't it as simple as loosening the 5 bearing caps (10 bolts) just enough for all of the valves to rise and close? After that the engine can be rotated without fear of the pistons hitting any open valves.

If the driver's side chain is on and was never removed you should be able to rotate the engine since that side is still timed. If that's not the case then that cam too has to be lifted just like the passenger side.

 

So then I should be able to just loosen the pass side camshaft put the Harm Bal back on and rotate the engine to TDC or to the 12o'clock?

Once that is done can I rotate the camshaft to the correct lobe position, bolt down the camshaft and then set the timing chains?

 

alloro is correct, if you are sure the driver's side is timed properly then get that side back in time before you time the right side. You can just loosen the cam caps like I described in the thread, no need to remove any rockers. If you aren't sure about the driver's side, then its best to pull that cam too. I turn the crank with the bolt, no need to put the balancer back on. Read how to set the timing marks in the first thread I linked to.

 

Ok, so once I crank the engine into time can I just rotate the camshaft by it self, so that #1 is in the appropriate position?

 

Don't rotate the cam with the chain off, just place it in the head at the correct position. Then you can move it a little to get the timing marks lined up. Did you read the thread where I detailed how to set the chains? I don't want to type all that again thats why I linked to it.

 

Yes, I reaad what you sent me and I understand the chain portion. Back to the camshaft, instead of just lossing the bolts would I pull the cam all the way out and the place it back in once the engine is at the 12 o'clock?

 

Only after you've loosened the bearing caps. If it's all bolted down and you try to rotate the cam, the lobes will move the valves up and down and hit any piston that is at or near the top of it's stroke. So loosen the caps, rotate the engine to where it needs to be, rotate the cam to where it needs to be, tighten the caps back down and install the chain.

 

Ok. Just to be clear, lossen the caps that hold the camshaft on, rotate the engine so that the key is at the 12 o'clock. Once in the 12 position I can or cannot rotate the camshaft to put in the proper lobe? Once lobe is correct set the timing chains.

Since the driver side is in time it doesnt matter that the links are not on the correct tooth, so I just have to very that the pass side is.

Once all that is done when I rotate the engine by hand I should only hear exhaust and intake sounds and NO loud clunking nosies?

 

Sort of. You have to loosen the cam caps enough to make sure all the valves are closed. I suggested completely removing the caps and cam making sure you don't mix up the caps or turn them around. They have to be installed the same way they were originally. The crankshaft key goes to 11 o'clock, this ensures no pistons are at TDC. If you are leaving the driver's chain on then you must make sure the driver's cam is in time and not 180 degrees out. The driver's side mark is a "L" and the passenger side is either a "R" or "l" depending on if you have the old design phasers. Once the crank and left cam is in time then put the right cam in the head with its mark at the correct spot or close to it. I suggest this way because if you just loosen the caps and rotate the cam then the lobes will push the cam up and it may bind in a journal. I have done it both ways and prefer to take the cam out. Tighten the caps a little at a time evenly making sure the cam does not bind on the first cap which has the thrust surface. Once you get the cam caps tightened then put on the right chain. Once you get it in time you can turn it but the chains will compress the tensioners randomly as each valve closes. That is normal because there is no oil pressure in the tensioners. Make sure you don't forget the crank sensor tone wheel.

 

Ok I think I got it, but have another question about doing the work. If the driver side camshaft does need to be turned in to time do I first remove the pass side camshaft and rollers, then put it TDC to verify the timing and if in time is correct rotate the engine (crank key) backwards to the 11 o'clock or contiune to turn the engine in the same direction to bring the crank key to the 11 o'clock?